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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 11th January 2012, 09:56 PM   #2171
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Photos of power supply and modified board.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg psandboard.JPG (115.3 KB, 392 views)
File Type: jpg modboard1.JPG (74.2 KB, 385 views)
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Old 12th January 2012, 10:45 AM   #2172
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My new Sure 4X TK2050 board with meanwell supply arrived a few days ago. I wanted to compare it to my two year old HLLY 90. The Sure was sweeter on the high end, and is so revealing, even without a burn-in, that I discovered that my new Benchmark DAC1 had an over emphasized high end (possibly an impedance mismatch since the DAC1 has a high output impedance on the RCAs?). I traded it out for my 20 year old Audio Research DAC1 and am astonished at the sound quality of the unmodified Sure. The $107 Sure has better sound than my $2000 Benchmark (I know apples to oranges). The Sure also bests my PS Audio Delta 100 by a lot (apples to apples). The Sure still has a slightly hot high end, for me, so I added a parallel notch filter after it and now the sound is so gorgeous I could stop here and be happy. I also have a Ghent Xu Icepower 125asx2 amp coming and can hardly wait.

James
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Old 13th January 2012, 07:47 PM   #2173
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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I have tried my board (un-modded) with a 34v Linear PS. I am using 8Ohm Fostex back loaded horns. I thought I would try a 12v battery to see what the difference was. It is a much better match and there is much more gain. Wierd this hifi lark init. I suppose you need less volts into 8Ohms.
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Old 14th January 2012, 02:38 AM   #2174
kmbois is offline kmbois  United States
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Whitelabrat, I love the idea of changing the output inductors. I am surprised with all those mods that you would be using the rca's that came with the board. better to use bare wire and screw it down than those cheesy rca's. Have you changed the input resistors?
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Old 14th January 2012, 08:56 AM   #2175
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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I have added two 2.2uf Wimas under board in paralell with the existing 224J (0.22uf?) input caps. I waas expecting more extnded and fuller bass. Any comments?
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Old 14th January 2012, 11:04 AM   #2176
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Try to di solder the 0.22uf ones, too. They act like bypass caps which is fine but with better quality mkps' like vishay mkp1837. Also remove the input supressor diodes. Try it again. From my experience with the 2-channel board , when i changed the inductors & installed a zobel filter was the best imrovement.

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Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
I have added two 2.2uf Wimas under board in paralell with the existing 224J (0.22uf?) input caps. I waas expecting more extnded and fuller bass. Any comments?
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Old 14th January 2012, 01:33 PM   #2177
kmbois is offline kmbois  United States
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Use the MKP1837 if you can. I used a high quality audio cap. I don't have it with me right now so i do not remember the brand. But the cap and the resistor are connected to new female rca's and directly to the volume control board. If there is room in the box use a better/bigger cap, don't worry about making it tight to the board. check out [URL="http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html"] for ideas about good sounding caps. replace the resistor also. And get rid of the rca. Install your own or use bare wire and screw it down with the connectors provided on the board.
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Old 14th January 2012, 03:13 PM   #2178
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I was about to unwind the PS toroid and decided it was too expensive for me to mess up. It has black tape all around it and is very nicely wound.

So I dropped in a 10uF cap and 5w 10ohm resistor before the 20,600uF which brought the voltage down to a rock solid 30V. Regardless of volume level, the voltage is 30V. The resistor is a bit warm, but not very much. In hindsight a 20Vac @ 5A or perhaps a 18V @ 10A transformer would be ideal.

@kmbois. I don't seem much value in changing the RCA's unless they're getting soldered in. Resistors can effect the sound, but not enough to be worth the effort. I'm going after the high impact mods since I don't have a lot of time for this. I say go with 41hz's amp4 if you're going to do more.
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Old 15th January 2012, 01:20 PM   #2179
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Removed C17 and C25 and 0.22uf input caps (leaving the 2.2uf Wimas only)

Sounds great with 12v and now even better with 34v. Have pushed another slotted heatshink onto the existing one (after removing the fan) as it seems to get hotter now?

Good bangs for the bucks.

And I thought my days of Class D were over. Oh yea, I said I wasn't going to mod this one...old habits die hard
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Old 20th January 2012, 05:37 AM   #2180
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Okay I tested the mod done by elfish here so by connecting a 0.33uf mkt cap to ground and earth of my meanwell s350-24 I maded my 4x100 noiseless and my friends 2x100 reduced 70% of the noise .


After my good experience with the sure 4x100 wich I was able to do insane mods, two friends of mine purchased the 2x100 version. I still have one 4x100 unmodded so I was able to compare both and it ends that the STOCK 4x100 sounds much better than the STOCK 2x100 and the 4x100 outputs much less noise.

One of my friends was unlucky because she's board turned to be a fire machine. Before connecting the speakers I always like to do some basic tests and so I connected 8 ohms 2 watt resistors to the board outputs and at the power on the board instantly set the resistors on fire. Now imagine if we had jumped the test and connected the speakers ( infinity p362 ) to the board.
Anyone has an idea of what kind of fault can cause that kind of disaster ? feedback caps and resistors maybe ?

[]'s
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