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Old 23rd December 2011, 01:36 PM   #2151
Havoc08 is offline Havoc08  Denmark
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I think you got a bad batch?
For 40 bucks I have never tried anything that images as well as the T-amps with a very dark background. I have a lot of sure amps and they are not as good as the 41hz amps (not close even), but for the money they perform very well. They beat every "low-fi" receiver I have pitted it against (sony, yamaha, onkyo, technics). BTW this is for the TK2050 amp, the 2024 sure amps are basically toys as they require a lot of modding to get the noise level down. An amp32 from 41hz is a better bet in that case.

Have you measured the offset? Change the crappy input caps. That very simple mod gives more bass and better imaging. After that, I swapped the bulk caps with some panasonic FMs instead of the noname ones. Low ESR is really important with these amps.

Swapping the coils is also beneficial, but at that point you might as well have bought a Hifimediy or a 41hz in my opinion.
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Old 23rd December 2011, 02:23 PM   #2152
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Default Thanks !

This is my opinion for an unmodified board. I will do these modifications and re evaluate .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Havoc08 View Post
I think you got a bad batch?
For 40 bucks I have never tried anything that images as well as the T-amps with a very dark background. I have a lot of sure amps and they are not as good as the 41hz amps (not close even), but for the money they perform very well. They beat every "low-fi" receiver I have pitted it against (sony, yamaha, onkyo, technics). BTW this is for the TK2050 amp, the 2024 sure amps are basically toys as they require a lot of modding to get the noise level down. An amp32 from 41hz is a better bet in that case.

Have you measured the offset? Change the crappy input caps. That very simple mod gives more bass and better imaging. After that, I swapped the bulk caps with some panasonic FMs instead of the noname ones. Low ESR is really important with these amps.

Swapping the coils is also beneficial, but at that point you might as well have bought a Hifimediy or a 41hz in my opinion.
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Old 25th December 2011, 04:18 AM   #2153
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Stumbled apon this 4 Channel 100Watt TDA7498 and was wondering if it would be suitable to power 1 silk dome tweeter per channel at 8 ohms with 100 watts. going to be building a pair of AR-LST mains for live sound usage with 100 watt tweeters, I would be using 2 of these amps per cab to power the highs.
Would I get 100 watts out of each channel when loading it with 8 ohms? asking because I see that it is 100 watts per channel at 6 ohms.
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Old 29th December 2011, 06:02 AM   #2154
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So far so good
Removed diode suppressors from the input. Changed input caps with 2x ERO MKC1820 polycarbonate (bypassed with vishay mkp1837 10nf). Put a 1000uf panasonic fc at the 5v rails.
Put some extra nichicon muse 1000uf per channel, now total capacitance is about 2000uf per channel. I'm waiting for parts to build a zobel filter with 0.47uf & 10ohm resistor. Offset with a 6ohm load is set at 5mv (that was the best i could do).
I'll finish it soon and post my reviews here. Havoc8 ! Lets see if it is worth it.

Last edited by vmed_cha_gr; 29th December 2011 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 1st January 2012, 03:43 AM   #2155
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Default First post, plenty of questions...

Hey gang,
First post. Been doing PLENTY of reading/research on here and the net before attempting this project. I just got myself one of these amps (AA-AB32181 to be exact). Powered with the S-145-24 MW amp (28v). I have put the infamous blue Zalman heatsink on it already (with Arctic Silver Ceramique 2). Been listening for a few hours, definitely a fun project and likely has a lot of potential. There are a few questions I had on it.

1. U2 on this amp gets pretty dang warm. This is what makes 5V on the amp? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm no electronics guru, just read the diagram am guessing that's it's job. Anywho, I put a small heatsink on this, as well as U3 (which stays cool). I doubt there is any harm in this, but is this worth doing? Ease of mind, if anything?

2. With the stock heatsink, the fan turned on after 5 minutes or so. I kept the fan plugged in for testing to the side and, with the Zalman on it, I have yet to see it turn on after about an hour of play. Curious, anybody know what temp the fan is supposed to turn on at? Also, multimeter says only 9v at the + prong on J2 fan connector, with grounding directly to the COM from the PSU. Grounding to the - prong on J2, I get around 1v. Not sure why that would be, but I can feel and here the fan sounding like a hard drive, clicking away. Just no movement. Hoping I didn't hurt something when I swapped, as the fan simply never turns on properly.

3. My board came with 2 completely different set of tank caps. The side closest to the power input is the same I have seen in all pics, but the right side say "nichican, 330MF, UG 50V, H0645". It may be a mental thing, but it bugs me to think that each channel has different caps (or, at least, labels on the top ). With that, I was debating between adding tank caps and replacing. Should this be more motive to replace rather than add to?

4. The input sensitivity switches (SW1) completely mute the sound when all switches are off. It seems the older version did not do this, as it was recommended to turn these all off in prior documentation here on the forum. What is recommended here? I ended up buying a bunch of 1W 22K resistors with my order, just in case I wanted to play with anything. Are these worth changing, or are there better options?

I think that completes my questioning. I have plenty of plans for this amp and lots of experimenting to do. I'm hoping this amp can really help me learn electronics better, especially with the diagram available and plenty of great help from this forum. Sorry if this is long winded at all.

I attached a pic of my current setup. Don't lol too hard at my shoebox enclosure... It's only temp until I decide how I want to build it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2011-12-31_21-30-17_762.jpg (254.2 KB, 378 views)

Last edited by NoDestiny; 1st January 2012 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 1st January 2012, 03:40 PM   #2156
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Default Fan and hard drive noise

For your item above I have been wondering where the noise was. I unplugged the fan and viola the hard drive noise stops. I guess I need to do the mod to remove the fan.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 12:06 PM   #2157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDestiny View Post
1. U2 on this amp gets pretty dang warm. This is what makes 5V on the amp? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm no electronics guru, just read the diagram am guessing that's it's job. Anywho, I put a small heatsink on this, as well as U3 (which stays cool). I doubt there is any harm in this, but is this worth doing? Ease of mind, if anything?
You are right here, it is the 5V regulator. Don't know if the heatsink is needed, but it won't harm to put a heatsink on cooler is always better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDestiny View Post
2. With the stock heatsink, the fan turned on after 5 minutes or so. I kept the fan plugged in for testing to the side and, with the Zalman on it, I have yet to see it turn on after about an hour of play. Curious, anybody know what temp the fan is supposed to turn on at? Also, multimeter says only 9v at the + prong on J2 fan connector, with grounding directly to the COM from the PSU. Grounding to the - prong on J2, I get around 1v. Not sure why that would be, but I can feel and here the fan sounding like a hard drive, clicking away. Just no movement. Hoping I didn't hurt something when I swapped, as the fan simply never turns on properly.
the problem with the fan(controller) here is that it is PWM controlled, and not very well done... the PWM controll starts at a specific temperature, but not on a duty cycle high enough for the fan to start turning, this is probably what you are hearing....
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDestiny View Post
3. My board came with 2 completely different set of tank caps. The side closest to the power input is the same I have seen in all pics, but the right side say "nichican, 330MF, UG 50V, H0645". It may be a mental thing, but it bugs me to think that each channel has different caps (or, at least, labels on the top ). With that, I was debating between adding tank caps and replacing. Should this be more motive to replace rather than add to?
don't know if it really matters, the audio purists here will surely tell you to remove them and get bigger better pricier good brand ones instead.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 12:25 PM   #2158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDestiny View Post

4. The input sensitivity switches (SW1) completely mute the sound when all switches are off. It seems the older version did not do this, as it was recommended to turn these all off in prior documentation here on the forum. What is recommended here? I ended up buying a bunch of 1W 22K resistors with my order, just in case I wanted to play with anything. Are these worth changing, or are there better options?
better options?
look at the pic,
firstly remove the transient voltage suppressors (black ones),
secondly remove the input caps on my board C18/C19 and C24/C26,
and add some good quality caps on the place I marked before the board.
look at my previous post for an example of good input caps
I noticed a dramatic improvement of sound (I think mainly because of the voltage suppressors)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mods.jpg (101.5 KB, 340 views)
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Old 5th January 2012, 09:22 PM   #2159
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Default help in 4&7 recipe please

hi boys,
i modded;
passive heat sink to a half Pentium4 that gives 38 Celsius degree in 33.5V
removed D1, D2 and shorted
replaced the input caps and removed the diodes
replaced the tank caps to 3* Pannys FM 1000uf 50V
put the Zoble 0.47uF mkp10 and 12R 1W
replaced the 10mH coils to 4.7mH Wurth
replaced all output caps (6 tot) to 0.47uF mkp4 as sugested in the middle of thread

the result is more clarity and punch compare to unmodded. but some blurring the sound stage! and emphasis on upper midds as well!!! which is not comfortable in long term listening.
now looking for the reason i saw this simulation #952 that showes the curve. has that up-going end to do with my consideration?

soldering back the original caps (0.68 and 0.22uF) will solve the problem? appreciate any help thanks.

Last edited by Nosian; 5th January 2012 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 6th January 2012, 09:21 AM   #2160
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Cool done with the mods

Well i have to re-evaluate here. I will give it 8/10. This board will work very well paired with a valve pre-amp (with ecc88cc tubes). It becomes musical, dynamic & with strong bass notes also. The only downside is a slight emphasis to the mid to high frequencies. But you can use speakers with a slight roll-off tweeter behavior. Well done here for sure-electronics but i would prefer the hifimediy T2 amp because you don't need to do any mods, it performs the same and even better without touching anything. So 8/10 for the sure (but man way to many mods) 9/10 for the hifimediy T2 (no mods, which will get a 10/10 with just changing the input caps with better quality ones).
Vassilis


Quote:
Originally Posted by vmed_cha_gr View Post
This is my opinion for an unmodified board. I will do these modifications and re evaluate .
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