Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050 - Page 199

bs1777 · 19th March 2011, 04:47 AM

-Thanks, but could you recommend an amp like that that is about 100 watts per channel or more(is better) and with 2 channels. It doesnt have to be the bare amplifier it could be assembled. And my limit of $300.

-Thanks

dr_vega · 19th March 2011, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bs1777

-Thanks, but could you recommend an amp like that that is about 100 watts per channel or more(is better) and with 2 channels. It doesnt have to be the bare amplifier it could be assembled. And my limit of $300.

-Thanks

Sorry, I'm going the other direction. I'm currently working on a 3-watt per channel tube amp.

-dr_vega

bs1777 · 19th March 2011, 08:52 PM

Ok. Thanks and good luck.

swkbkk · 26th March 2011, 10:50 AM

I found a simple solution to eliminate on-off thumping noise based on the information provided in this web page 555 and 556 Timer Circuits (Schmitt trigger). It requires just a single 555 IC, a capacitor, a resistor, two SPST relays (or a single DPST relay) and a protection diode. Optional LED indications can be included very simply as shown in the attached diagram. I am not an electronics engineer and I don't know how to draw "standard" circuit diagrams. So I just tried to show how I lay the things on my strip board. I hope you can understand it.

Note that 555 accepts anything between 4.5VDC and 15VDC according to the website above. The coil voltage of the relays must be selected to match the input voltage you are supplying accordingly. I read that most relays can tolerate a bit higher voltage than specified. Personally, I have used two 5V SPST (Normally Open) relays with contact rating of 10A@30V. I supply 5.7 VDC from a phone charger which I savaged from my old Nokia phone.

The turn-on delay time is a function (a multiplication for approximation) of the capacitor and the resistor values but I suggest using a low capacitance and a high resistance (rather than high capacitance and a low resistance) so that we get "instant off" effect. If the capacitor is large, it will take time to de-activate the relay and it might cause turn-off noise. Personally, I have used used 100uF and 50K preset turned down to around 30K to give me about 3 seconds turn-on delay and almost instant turn-off. It's also important that the power source does not have big capacitors of its own. The nokia phone charger I am using doesn't seem to have any (or very little) capacitor in it, which is good thing for "instant off" effect.

The 4 pin RGB LED connected as in the diagram lights Red when the amp is turned on and after the delayed time, will also light Blue when the relays are activated and the speakers are connected illuminating some purplish colour.

I have built the simple circuit and tested and it works for my setup. Please note that it's NOT a speaker protection module, but just a simple solution to eliminate thumping noise during on and off.

biggzy · 31st March 2011, 09:05 PM

Hi all, just a quick question, i have modded my Teac A-H300 reference amp and added a set of pre-outs, can i drive this amp board via those as a power amp?
if so would it just be a case of plugging the RCA's in, the speakers and the DC power plug? would i still need to add a pot to adjust the gain or is the gain set to max out the door?

Thanks for any help,
Adam.

PJN · 6th April 2011, 06:44 PM

Hello all,

I have a similar questions also. Has anyone sucessfully used a preamp with this board, or only used the sure rotary encoder, or a pot ? I have a decent class A preamp that I'd like to use, but the documentation seems to warn against using any preamp, even though there are high and low gain adjustments on the board. Also I have a spare chipamp PSU that puts out ~ +/-30 vdc. Can this be used if I only use the +30v and the ground to power the board ?

Thanks,

PJN

greenmark59 · 6th April 2011, 06:49 PM

I'm using a Mitsubishi preamp out directly to the board for the last 6 months and have had no problems and it sounds very good.

superlian · 6th April 2011, 07:12 PM

My SURE 2050 2x100 watt board suddenly is dead. When i plugged in the 12 volt battery the fan started, stopped and when i took the 12 volt plug in and out it is dead. No sound. No light in the diodes?

Anyone who know what who could be wrong and how to fix it?

v-bro · 6th April 2011, 08:50 PM

Getting rid of the pop...

YouTube - Tripath anti pop turn on/off circuit for SLEEP and MUTE

It can be very simple...

Here's what I designed:

It's the sequence that matters, first transistor can toggle the sleep and mute in one draw and the second a speaker relay...

TheDealer · 7th April 2011, 05:29 PM

Thanks for your suggestion.
Not sure if I understood your design right. Means that I find sleep and mute connection on the sure board ?

Is the 12 Volts a separate supply or just the power input of the board ? Usually it should be then at least 24 Volts if your design is integrated into the powersupply connection of the board.

6th April 2011, 08:50 PM	#1989
v-bro diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	Getting rid of the pop... YouTube - Tripath anti pop turn on/off circuit for SLEEP and MUTE It can be very simple... Here's what I designed: It's the sequence that matters, first transistor can toggle the sleep and mute in one draw and the second a speaker relay... __________________ Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......

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19th March 2011, 04:47 AM	#1981
bs1777 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Saskatchewan	-Thanks, but could you recommend an amp like that that is about 100 watts per channel or more(is better) and with 2 channels. It doesnt have to be the bare amplifier it could be assembled. And my limit of $300. -Thanks

19th March 2011, 08:52 PM	#1983
bs1777 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Saskatchewan	Ok. Thanks and good luck.

31st March 2011, 09:05 PM	#1985
biggzy diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	Hi all, just a quick question, i have modded my Teac A-H300 reference amp and added a set of pre-outs, can i drive this amp board via those as a power amp? if so would it just be a case of plugging the RCA's in, the speakers and the DC power plug? would i still need to add a pot to adjust the gain or is the gain set to max out the door? Thanks for any help, Adam.

6th April 2011, 06:44 PM	#1986
PJN diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Pa, USA	Hello all, I have a similar questions also. Has anyone sucessfully used a preamp with this board, or only used the sure rotary encoder, or a pot ? I have a decent class A preamp that I'd like to use, but the documentation seems to warn against using any preamp, even though there are high and low gain adjustments on the board. Also I have a spare chipamp PSU that puts out ~ +/-30 vdc. Can this be used if I only use the +30v and the ground to power the board ? Thanks, PJN

6th April 2011, 06:49 PM	#1987
greenmark59 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Cincinnati, OH USA	I'm using a Mitsubishi preamp out directly to the board for the last 6 months and have had no problems and it sounds very good.

6th April 2011, 07:12 PM	#1988
superlian diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2010	My SURE 2050 2x100 watt board suddenly is dead. When i plugged in the 12 volt battery the fan started, stopped and when i took the 12 volt plug in and out it is dead. No sound. No light in the diodes? Anyone who know what who could be wrong and how to fix it?

7th April 2011, 05:29 PM	#1990
TheDealer diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2008	Thanks for your suggestion. Not sure if I understood your design right. Means that I find sleep and mute connection on the sure board ? Is the 12 Volts a separate supply or just the power input of the board ? Usually it should be then at least 24 Volts if your design is integrated into the powersupply connection of the board.