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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 1st March 2011, 12:37 PM   #1961
Greg L is offline Greg L  Japan
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Hi Malefoda

Thanks. Well so far so good. It runs quite cool now in winter weather but will heat up in summer weather. I've measured up to 55 degrees but that was with outside temperatures above 30 degree's and only fans in the house.

Your right about that rectifier heating up. I never noticed that before. I should remove mine now that I have it cased.
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Old 1st March 2011, 01:43 PM   #1962
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Would it be possible to get rid of those input rectifiers if you were running off 12v/24v battery operation? thats alot of heat!!
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Old 1st March 2011, 02:06 PM   #1963
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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sure, the rectifiers are there only for protection against reversed polarity, to protect the board.
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Old 1st March 2011, 02:40 PM   #1964
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thats great, thanks for the reply

i take it i could just desolder and short circuit them? I would obviously be running without the polarity protection but thats not so much an issue as the wasted power
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Old 1st March 2011, 02:42 PM   #1965
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And you'll get back maybe 0.5V lost here!
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Old 1st March 2011, 02:46 PM   #1966
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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Yes, just desolder them, and short them out. Did that on 2 of my sure boards, and they both work fine without them (cant hear any improvement though, not a big deal imo).
Make sure you are applying DC (not AC), and make sure the polarity is right.
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Old 1st March 2011, 05:27 PM   #1967
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brilliant, sounds like a plan.

how much power would you estimated these used? Can't seem to work it out with my A-level electronics - the data sheets dont really help . thanks again in advance
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Old 1st March 2011, 05:39 PM   #1968
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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They drop around 0.5v, and the whole amp uses around 300mA iirc.
This means you get around 0.15W back by removing them.
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Old 4th March 2011, 11:25 AM   #1969
swkbkk is offline swkbkk  Thailand
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Question On/Off thumping and Speaker Protection board

I was trying to get rid of on/off popping sound using a relay (normally closed) connecting the mute and the 5V terminals and a simple RC delay constant before the relay but gave up the idea after realizing that the popping occurs even when "de-muting" and popping at off won't be resolved in this way.

So I have decided to use one of those "off-the-shelf" speaker protection boards from Ebay...something like this one here: BTL/Stereo Speaker Protector Board Dual Relay + uPC1237 - eBay (item 120690137764 end time Mar-27-11 21:32:22 PDT)

But I am all confused about how to connect it up. Do I need two of them? One for the left channel and the other for the right channel? Or Is a single board enough? What do I supply to those three power input blocks? I don't have AC 22-32V as I am powering my amp with a MeanWell PSU. I tried to understand the diagram including UPC1237 data sheet, but it's all beyond my capability. I would be very grateful if someone can kindly show me how to wire them up together .... maybe with some picture

BTW, I do have a DC-to-DC step down regulator converting the DC from the MeanWell to 12VDC for running a fan and a LED if that makes any difference to how I should I wire it up.
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Old 4th March 2011, 01:02 PM   #1970
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8 X Copper Heat Sink For DDR DDR2 DDR3 RAM Memory RHS03 en vente sur eBay.fr (fin le 13-mars-11 04:52:06 Paris)

Anyone would fit that on the hot/lower value coils?
Will it interact with core a bit or not? It's cheap enough to avoid heating.
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