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Old 2nd November 2010, 12:35 PM   #1871
ranger3 is offline ranger3  United States
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Default SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V

Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..
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Old 2nd November 2010, 03:16 PM   #1872
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default AC ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger3 View Post
Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..
Don't you want to use an AC switch to turn off the power supply and the amp together?
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Old 2nd November 2010, 03:24 PM   #1873
ranger3 is offline ranger3  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
Don't you want to use an AC switch to turn off the power supply and the amp together?

I have a 10 amp Astron PS that I have 2 amps connected to. I need to be able to control the power to each amp seperately.
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Old 2nd November 2010, 04:34 PM   #1874
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Guess

Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger3 View Post
Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..
I would guess that ground would just go straight in and back out from the ground pin if you want the led to work. You might have to remove the original led resistor and put in a bigger value. 3 times as large? Positive goes in on the + and out on the A? Measure for continuity with a volt meter while operating the swaitch to find out how it is set up.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 10:39 AM   #1875
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Hi there,

as a PSU is quite expensive:

will a single MeanWell 36V/9.7A down to 32V be enough for 2 amps, each driven hard as speakers are not efficient? A dedicated PSU on each amp will bring something sound wise and/or having 2 will avoid for a single one's fan to turn on?

second, going for a big heatsink and passive cooling (hope it will be reliable with 86db/W speakers...), will the PSU turned down to 30/28V (and bother with PCB's linked R) allow for less heat, enough to sacrifice SQ and time wasting in changing R13, R17, R25, and R31?

Thanks!
Matthieu
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Last edited by Malefoda; 3rd November 2010 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 11:07 AM   #1876
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default 4 channels?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malefoda View Post
Hi there,

as a PSU is quite expensive:

will a single MeanWell 36V/9.7A down to 32V be enough for 2 amps, each driven hard as speakers are not efficient? A dedicated PSU on each amp will bring something sound wise and/or having 2 will avoid for a single one's fan to turn on?

second, going for a big heatsink and passive cooling (hope it will be reliable with 86db/W speakers...), will the PSU turned down to 30/28V (and bother with PCB's linked R) allow for less heat, enough to sacrifice SQ and time wasting in changing R13, R17, R25, and R31?

Thanks!
Matthieu
Do you need 4 channels? Running two amp boards from one power supply sometimes generates a weird, whistling noise. You will need two supplies. My Zalman heatsinks never get hotter than 50C at 32V.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 11:12 AM   #1877
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Hi Scott,
yes I do need 4 channels, and here I go for 2 SMPS & the Zalman
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Old 5th November 2010, 02:16 PM   #1878
ranger3 is offline ranger3  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
I would guess that ground would just go straight in and back out from the ground pin if you want the led to work. You might have to remove the original led resistor and put in a bigger value. 3 times as large? Positive goes in on the + and out on the A? Measure for continuity with a volt meter while operating the swaitch to find out how it is set up.

What I did was, put a 680 ohm resistor in line on the ground side. Works well at 24 volts. I have to try 30 volts next to make sure the LED isn't to bright, otherwise I will need a larger resistor.

Thanks for your help.

Allen ...
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Old 8th November 2010, 07:36 AM   #1879
Baka is offline Baka  Montenegro
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Default Hi DC on output

I've been doing some well known tweaks this weekend such as changing of inductors with Wurths, changing the output filter caps, removing unnecessary binding posts, input capacitors and diodes.

Unfortunately, hi DC appeared on output. Depending of the input gain it's 22V and 24V, both channels. With the gain off there is no output dc.

What could went wrong?

The supply voltage and polarity should be of no concern.

Removing binding posts and output inductors was particularly painful so even overheating comes to my mind.

Is tc2000 damaged or tp2050 or both?

How could I check this?

Thank you all guys.

Baki
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Old 8th November 2010, 08:48 AM   #1880
col_s is offline col_s  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baka View Post
removing unnecessary binding posts, input capacitors and diodes.

Baki
You shouldn't remove the input cap on tripath amplifiers. This is because the input is biased at 2.5v. Without the input casp, the 2.5V DC will be amplified and appear as high DC on the output.
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