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Old 13th June 2010, 05:04 AM   #1701
sled108 is offline sled108  United States
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I have a general question about this Board..That causes it to Cut-Out at High Levels?...Too much Input, or Too much Load to Drive? I drive mine with a Cmoy PreAmp and 31.5V 3.17A HP SMPS into (4) 8 Ohm Speakers and it Sounds Great...But, sometimes..Mostly listening to Zep on the TT it will Mute and I have to turn it's PS Off and On and it will resume playing Loud and Proud...I have the Board's Input Pots set on Low..Would it be better if I set them at Med. or High and not turn up the PreAmp as much? Or, is it that it wants more than 3 Amps?

Last edited by sled108; 13th June 2010 at 05:09 AM.
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Old 13th June 2010, 12:49 PM   #1702
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default 4 speakers

Quote:
Originally Posted by sled108 View Post
I have a general question about this Board..That causes it to Cut-Out at High Levels?...Too much Input, or Too much Load to Drive? I drive mine with a Cmoy PreAmp and 31.5V 3.17A HP SMPS into (4) 8 Ohm Speakers and it Sounds Great...But, sometimes..Mostly listening to Zep on the TT it will Mute and I have to turn it's PS Off and On and it will resume playing Loud and Proud...I have the Board's Input Pots set on Low..Would it be better if I set them at Med. or High and not turn up the PreAmp as much? Or, is it that it wants more than 3 Amps?
You are using 4 speakers? The amp or power supply may be cutting out on protection. You can buy another amp and power supply so that each pair of speakers can have it's own.
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Old 18th June 2010, 10:30 AM   #1703
jwmbro is offline jwmbro  United States
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Originally Posted by MikeHunt79 View Post
Hey all, I've finally finished by Sure TK2050 powered speakers, and they sound great! Here's a few pics, I've gone for function over form!

A quick test using my mp3 player:
Click the image to open in full size.

I've only managed to listen to one at a time so far, as I still need to build a few XLR cables, but during the test using my Sansa Clip (with a flac file with HP and LP filters already applied) as a souce, they both sound good. Nice dynamics and also much cleaner bass compared to the previous LM3886 based amp that originally came with the speakers.

Once I get my XLR cables made and modded my DCX2496 I should be able to hear them in all their glory.

I'd like to say thanks to everyone in this thread, I wouldn't have managed to get things sounding so good without the great info contained in this thread.
Hello,

Interesting looking build you have there, but quite cool I must say. I browsed through the thread, but I couldn't see an answer to my inquiry, so I shall just ask myself. Apologies if it was mentioned somewhere that I overlooked.

How did you wire the XLR jacks to the Sure?

I'm also interested in using 4 channels of Sure Tripath amplification, fed directly from a Behringer DCX2496, and while I was originally just going to buy some XLR to RCA cables, I decided I could just build my amp with XLR inputs.
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Old 18th June 2010, 12:10 PM   #1704
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Originally Posted by klankymen View Post
How did you wire the XLR jacks to the Sure?
If you want to use balanced cables;
Wire pin 1 to ground, Pin 2 to your input cap, pin 3 can be terminated with a 22k resistor to pin 1 to balance the cable. You may also want to experiment with a fixed attenuator at the amp as the DCX has way too high an output level. I would start with -12db. Once you get this right, you will be able to use the DCX with it's digital input and use digital volume control. Add 4k resistors in series with pins 2 and 3 and then another set of resistors from the output of the 4k resistors to pin 1 to form the pad. Start with 1.3k for the shunt resistors. increase or decrease from there to get the right listening level for your speakers with the digital in and to just keep from peaking the the analog input meters when the system is playing at your loudest listening level. If you have one driver that is much more efficient than the other, you can also use different pads for the tweeters and woofers to get them to a closer match so you don't have to use so much digital attenuation in the crossover of the louder driver.
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Old 20th June 2010, 05:20 AM   #1705
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I did the 2.2uF input cap + 50k potentiometer mod. Used 1% tolerance poly-metal caps.

Removed the parts marked by audio1st and was wondering why it wasn't working, then realized I was an idiot and needed to close the circuit for where the stock input caps used to be.

I don't really notice much improvement in sound but the volume control is handy.
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Old 20th June 2010, 10:28 AM   #1706
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdr View Post
either

Btw, my trusty vincent sv-236 wiped the floor with tripath
With what Tripath was that?

I've done some comparing myself (understatement...) in the past and Tripath certainly came out way on top!Clash of some Titans

You can have a marvellous chipset (engine), but in the end it's the implementation that counts most...
Click the image to open in full size.
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Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......

Last edited by v-bro; 20th June 2010 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 21st June 2010, 03:06 AM   #1707
sled108 is offline sled108  United States
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Whoooaa...V-Bro....What's that Mill out of?
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Old 21st June 2010, 09:42 PM   #1708
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What do you recommend to be replaced on TK2050 board? It's little hard to browse through 171 pages.
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Old 21st June 2010, 10:53 PM   #1709
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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1. Remove input suppressors (underside of the board, look like smd diodes)
2. Replace input caps (audio1st has a great tutorial picture)
3. Use 32v
4. Remove the fan and replace the heatsink with a zm-47j northbridge cooler
5. Replace output filter, some wurth xxl coils fit right in the original space and sound great, search this thread for wurth xxl to find them
6. Replace buffer caps
7. Replace output caps

Number 1 is most important, while number 7 is least.
Might be not in (complete) correct order, but if you get to 5, you might as well do 6 and 7.
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Old 21st June 2010, 11:15 PM   #1710
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Thanks!

I already did audio1st mod, replaced C10/14 with Wima MKS 0.1uF, C9/11 with Panasonic FC 1000uF 63V (should I put more??), C3/4 with Panasonic FC 100uF 63V and removed R14/34.
I'm also considering replacing C1 and C2 with Wima MKS 0.1uF 63V and already ordered Arjen's T68/2 10uH coils.
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