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Old 17th June 2009, 03:17 PM   #161
riktw is offline riktw  Netherlands
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if you havent modded it, send it back, and get a new one, should be no problem with sure elektronics.
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Old 17th June 2009, 05:29 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally posted by riktw
@audio1st
can you tell me why you modded it and what the mods are supposted to do?
becouse i can just mod it like you did but i want to know what the mods are supposted to do.
like, why did you remove the diodes, and does replacing C1 and C2 with 1 cap affect the input filter and how much?
and why did you reroutet the power supply, is the circuit boards routing bad?

The mods you refer to are just the final touches, if you are still trying different power supplies, then I don't recommend you remove the diodes or re route the power..
C1 and C2, also C5 are in parallel with the new power supply caps which are now low ESR, so they are replaced with better quality.
I didn't think the PS routing was perfect as it was.


Note, C1 and C2 are not input filter caps, the input filter caps are C16,C17 and C24,C25. This is the most important mod. Remove the 4 caps and replace C16 and C24 with something like THIS
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Old 17th June 2009, 06:13 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally posted by whelibob


yes im using only one 12v 9Ah battery. i havent connected the 5volt mute. my speakers impedance is 8ohm. and there shouldn't be any shortciruiting in my wiring. my guess is that its just a manufacturing fault since in the beginning when it worked only the other channel was giving out sound and just after 5minutes of listening it also muted.

Has the battery voltage dropped? needs recharging?
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Old 17th June 2009, 06:17 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st



Has the battery voltage dropped? needs recharging?
nope battery is just recharged and tested also with 24V with two batteries in parallel. most likely going to send it back, if and when sure electronics replies to my email.
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Old 17th June 2009, 08:42 PM   #165
riktw is offline riktw  Netherlands
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maybe a good tip for the heating problems.
the board got an 5V out, if you have an good 12cm fan, noctua makes very good ones, and you connect it to the 5V you got an almost silent fan.
and if you have a good one, it cools enough, about 20 to 30 degrees celcius lower
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Old 19th June 2009, 09:44 PM   #166
ElFishi is offline ElFishi  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st



The mods you refer to are just the final touches, if you are still trying different power supplies, then I don't recommend you remove the diodes or re route the power..
C1 and C2, also C5 are in parallel with the new power supply caps which are now low ESR, so they are replaced with better quality.
I didn't think the PS routing was perfect as it was.


Note, C1 and C2 are not input filter caps, the input filter caps are C16,C17 and C24,C25. This is the most important mod. Remove the 4 caps and replace C16 and C24 with something like THIS
Audio1st,
can you pls elaborate on the rerouting of the power rails?
I can follow the idea of shorting the diodes and doubling the rail. But what is the notion behind the cuts and bridge around the LM317?

Also you seem to have taken out almost any ol' cap on the board.
Putting some low ESR around the rail like C7-9 and C11-13 seems like a good idea to me, too. Do you find it necessary to actually eliminate the original caps on these spaces? I figure even if there are lower ESRs around the original caps shouldn't hurt or can they?

Also C1&2 seem non-suspect to me, what was your reason for getting at them?

Lastly, you replaced some caps in the output stage, but not all of them. Is there something we can learn from this?

thx
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Old 20th June 2009, 02:07 AM   #167
vaughn is offline vaughn  United States
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I haven't gone back and taken the time to read the posts since I last posted but I would
like to revise my original statement on this amp...

I originally said that I didn't care for the highs, but I started out with the amp mounted directly on top of the switching power supply. Once I went back and cased the 2050 amp in a separate box the hardness in the upper mids and treble left, for the most part. I have tried it now with three different speakers; DCM TimeFrame TF600's, Infinity Reference Series Kappa 6's and a pair of DIY Usher 2-ways I constructed from a design by Dennis Murphy. It really excels in the mids with lushness like a cross between good class A solid state gear and vacuum tube equipment. This may be common to all good class D gear but I have only owned the Sonic Impact amp so can't comment with any real authority. It also has excellent bass but might exhibit slightly less control with the Kappa 6's than my Behringer A500, which is about twice the power.

Anyway, for the money it is ridiculously good!
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Old 20th June 2009, 03:22 AM   #168
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Hello Vaughn,

I too am being a little lazy by not reading your previous posts, but can you tell me please if you've modded your board in anyway or are your comments based on a stock standard tc2000+tp2050 Sure board?

Thanks.

regards,
Simon
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Old 20th June 2009, 06:51 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally posted by ElFishi


Audio1st,
can you pls elaborate on the rerouting of the power rails?
I can follow the idea of shorting the diodes and doubling the rail. But what is the notion behind the cuts and bridge around the LM317?
Also C1&2 seem non-suspect to me, what was your reason for getting at them?
thx
Hi ElFishi,
As I said the mods are just what I have done for my own use and are not necessarily a recommendation..
I am very happy with my boards and have just shared some ideas.
Here is a picture of the original PS route.
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File Type: jpg sureboardps.jpg (90.4 KB, 1697 views)
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Old 20th June 2009, 06:55 PM   #170
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And here is the modded route.
I have a permanent PS so I have no need for the diodes to be in the PS path.
I could also see no need for C1&C2.
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File Type: jpg sureboardps2.jpg (89.1 KB, 1708 views)
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