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Old 27th April 2010, 08:07 PM   #1511
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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They care, not that much though
Some other user got emailed back after approx 3 weeks I remember
Try measuring your 5v line, might be you fried the lm317
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Old 28th April 2010, 12:45 AM   #1512
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Unleashed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Davis View Post
I've got an LM3886 amp, a TDA8920 monoblock amp, and a TK2050 amp. I've got a volume-compensated relay box (see picture) that could be used to compare them. Might be fun to do the testing, but it's not high up on the priority list, so it may take a while to get to it.

Click the image to open in full size.
You have unleashed the Genie. Now all of the DIY amp collectors must continually hound you for a report.
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Old 28th April 2010, 12:45 PM   #1513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
You have unleashed the Genie. Now all of the DIY amp collectors must continually hound you for a report.
It's odd how people need to have opinions and how threatened and defensive they get when someone does a controlled experiment that challenges those opinions. I made some relay boxes for DCDIY2004 that were used for capacitor testing back in the days when the Madisound board was active. The controlled blind and double blind experiments we ran that year resulted in the longest and most hostile discussions on the Mad board that I've ever seen on any forum.

Any any time I do one of these controlled tests, it seems like someone else gets pissed off at me. *sigh* I just want answers, not drama...
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Old 28th April 2010, 06:48 PM   #1514
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O.K. as I see everybody is busy in his interest. Though that I would be glad if someone could give a bit attention how I should check up if my sure-board is damaged or not.
This I received from support:
"
1. Please check whether your board is short circuit by multimeter first.

Please test the DC output voltage V1 and V2 without the speakers. V1 is voltage drop between Vout1+ and GND and V2 is voltage drop between Vout1- and GND.

Please test the DC output voltage V3 and V4 without the speakers. V3 is voltage drop between Vout2+ and GND and V4 is voltage drop between Vout2- and GND.

2. If the board is ok, you may remove the fan directly by cut off the connection wire to see whether the board could work normally.

Generally speaking, the board could realize heat dissipation through heat sink alone."


How to handle this ? Yes I have a multimeter but how to check up shor circuit ? Is it explained in the following sentences "... the DC output voltage V1 ..." ?
Should I connect the SMPS before ... I think yes or ?

Wishes
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Old 28th April 2010, 07:09 PM   #1515
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Measure volts

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
O.K. as I see everybody is busy in his interest. Though that I would be glad if someone could give a bit attention how I should check up if my sure-board is damaged or not.
This I received from support:
"
1. Please check whether your board is short circuit by multimeter first.

Please test the DC output voltage V1 and V2 without the speakers. V1 is voltage drop between Vout1+ and GND and V2 is voltage drop between Vout1- and GND.

Please test the DC output voltage V3 and V4 without the speakers. V3 is voltage drop between Vout2+ and GND and V4 is voltage drop between Vout2- and GND.

2. If the board is ok, you may remove the fan directly by cut off the connection wire to see whether the board could work normally.

Generally speaking, the board could realize heat dissipation through heat sink alone."


How to handle this ? Yes I have a multimeter but how to check up shor circuit ? Is it explained in the following sentences "... the DC output voltage V1 ..." ?
Should I connect the SMPS before ... I think yes or ?

Wishes
Measure volts with the amp turned on with the black probe on ground and then touch the red probe to each speaker terminal one at a time. They should all read half of the supply voltage.
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Old 29th April 2010, 09:44 PM   #1516
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Default Connex Power Supplies?

I was wondering if anyone has tried running their Sure board with one of the power supplies sold by Connex:

Connexelectronic

Connexelectronic

Connexelectronic

I ask because Meanwell's power supply (specifically, the 350 watt one) is a bit too bulky for my needs, and I'm interested in alternatives. The Connex units are smaller, and they specifically mention compatibility with their TA3020 and TA2022 boards. Thoughts?
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Old 29th April 2010, 10:26 PM   #1517
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
Does anybody here also have a 3886 chip amp? I like the TK2050 better but would be interested to have you post your comparisons on the other thread.
.
2*100 watt @ 4ohm TK2050 or LM3886 Gain Clone??
.
They have a blind devotion to the 3886 in the chip amp forum.
With the LM3886 is really easy to hack together a working amplifier that is by far not excellent, but not bad either... TK2050 I find by far superior in sound, but even here on a DIY forum I don't see a lot of guys designing their own board... The LM3886 doesn't even need a board
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Old 29th April 2010, 10:30 PM   #1518
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamacc View Post
dont ground the meanwell, put them in series, and have 48v for the st517 :P
Such confusion! It's STA517B for the record, and there's also an STA516B which is almost the same, then there are some Apogee chips that also fit in and can deliver much more current. The fets in these packages outperform the ones in the TP2050 by far!
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Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......
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Old 30th April 2010, 01:08 AM   #1519
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Default Optimum implementation for bass drivers

I am wanting to use a pair of 2050s to drive 4 x 12 inch OB drivers. Two drivers per side 8 Ohm per channel. Currently I am using a car amp but it has limitations and ideally I want the each amp mounted on the back of the speakers.

So what is the best implementation of the 2050 module for this specific purpose.

I currently have 3.3 uf foil caps, removed the inputs bits not needed and have 24V battery supplies, everything else in the system is also off the grid.

I could go to 36v but I worry that the charged batteries would actually be closer to 40V and I want longevity not short term oomph and then burn out

The main issue is what to replace the std coils with, Air cores or torroids and what value. I suspect some additional Capacitance very close to the chip might help.

I have the fans running off separate supplies so no noise issues there now. The amps sound rather good on full range applications but have some grain due to the coils I suspect, certainly the amps lack the utter sweetness of the Helder 2020 MK3s which I am using for the tweeters and mids.

Basically I want to keep the bass very clean and tight and anything above 200 hz is filtered out so it is of no consequence.

Any ideas
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Old 30th April 2010, 10:54 AM   #1520
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default symmetrical

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoldierAnt76 View Post
I was wondering if anyone has tried running their Sure board with one of the power supplies sold by Connex:

Connexelectronic

Connexelectronic

Connexelectronic

I ask because Meanwell's power supply (specifically, the 350 watt one) is a bit too bulky for my needs, and I'm interested in alternatives. The Connex units are smaller, and they specifically mention compatibility with their TA3020 and TA2022 boards. Thoughts?
Those are all symmetrical power supplies which supply + and - voltage. Ask the designer how well they will work as a single supply.
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