Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

[Barbieboy]

Originally Posted by teamacc

Farnell stocks the 4.7uH wurth coils again!

WUERTH ELEKTRONIK|7447709004|CHOKE, SMD, 4.7UH | Farnell United Kingdom
Go check it out

You need to be a company to order at farnell though :S

Yeah, don't worry, I just said I was a company and no probs the coils came through. But fitting them is a complete ***...............

[Barbieboy]

Originally Posted by ewidance

Hi all,

Did somebody knows where to buy good polipropylen or paper / oil 2.2 uF input caps in Europe (and especially in France)? I tried partsexpress, but unfortunately minimum order is 50$ and shipping is 40$.. A bit expensive for DIY a 30€ amp...

Thanks to all, i've read the 143 pages of this thread, and you've done a faboulous job on that amp!

ewidance.

Got mine from here, very helpful on the phone too, nice change to have someone interested in their products and in you !

amplifier valve kits, HIFI pre-amplifiers, speaker kits, upgrade components

Marcus

[Barbieboy]

Arrrggg... things are getting worse for me with these Wurth coils.... Ok, took them all off and redid them, now one channel is fine hooray, but the other is far from happy. Getting a sort whining noise when connected to the woofer, or a Dolphin like clicking through the tweeter.... Set my meter to 200k ohms and got a reading of 15.8. The other channel that works fine is 32.0.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board. thanks.

[soldersmoker]

Originally Posted by v-bro

Man what a great laugh this thread is often giving me! Keep it up, those crazy heatsink pics! It reminds me of the Signetics WOM datasheet. Look at the part about 'COOLING'...

http://www.national.com/rap/files/datasheet.pdf



41hz AMP15 running at + and - 60Vdc, 6.8R 200W dummyloads (running HOT!)

Fet temperature after 1 hour running and NO heatsink.

This is class T!

Sure amp is running 27V, 8 ohms, and playing sweet music. No Schadenfreude required.

dr_vega, you have a PM.

[v-bro]

Originally Posted by soldersmoker

Sure amp is running 27V, 8 ohms, and playing sweet music. No Schadenfreude required.

dr_vega, you have a PM.

It just depends on what you are satisfied with I guess... sorry about the pun!

Why the German language by the way? I don't understand that ****...

[teamacc]

Please measure all caps. I think you might have burned one

[Minifi]

Originally Posted by v-bro

It just depends on what you are satisfied with I guess... sorry about the pun!

Why the German language by the way? I don't understand that ****...

You must of missed that episode of the Simpsons.

Trying a couple West-Cap 3uf, very nice natural tone, found bypassing them with nos russian polystyrene just lifts them nicely. US and Soviet coldwar tec working together, oh the irony.

nice tip!

[Nick122147]

I received a tk2050 board yesterday, it's not the sure but another similar Chinese made 2*100w. Im really impressed by the sound!
Read more in this post
New TK2050 board

[audio1st]

Originally Posted by Barbieboy

Arrrggg... things are getting worse for me with these Wurth coils.... Ok, took them all off and redid them, now one channel is fine hooray, but the other is far from happy. Getting a sort whining noise when connected to the woofer, or a Dolphin like clicking through the tweeter.... Set my meter to 200k ohms and got a reading of 15.8. The other channel that works fine is 32.0.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board.

Hi Barbieboy, try adding a link as shown in 1st pic..

To check your inductors are soldered to the pads, you should have near zero resistance between the points in pic 2..

[sendler]

Originally Posted by Barbieboy

Arrrggg... things are getting worse for me with these Wurth coils.... Ok, took them all off and redid them, now one channel is fine hooray, but the other is far from happy. Getting a sort whining noise when connected to the woofer, or a Dolphin like clicking through the tweeter.... Set my meter to 200k ohms and got a reading of 15.8. The other channel that works fine is 32.0.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board. thanks.

Measure resistance through each cap. The bigger ones should read 16K because of the circuit they are in. Although the one with the missing pad may not be in the circuit. The smaller one should read 32K.
.
The reason that the one pad won't take solder is probably because the pad is no longer there. You will have to run a jumper according to the schematic to the next closest pad. That is probably the shorted cap that any way. If it is shorted, you will need to replace them all so that they match. Always check the DC offset again with a resistor for a load before connecting to your speakers and fine tuning.