Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050 - Page 112

Nehon · 10th March 2010, 08:15 PM

I have received my board just yesterday, it is equipped with a MSI chipset cooler and underneath three are two component marked C935 AG, I believe that are bidirecional transient suppressors, a sort of zener mounted to protect the input.
I don't remember if theese components were assembled in the previus version of this board.

mfong · 11th March 2010, 06:19 AM

I think they're diodes. This is the first one I've had, so I never saw the old version of the board. I'd be surprised to find out that they're big capacitors of any kind. I find it interesting that SURE seems to pay attention to this board. They added the fan to the heatsink, then ran the fan at 5 volts. I think both ideas came up in this thread.

Zero One · 11th March 2010, 07:11 AM

I looked back at the early post on this thread and it seems they are some sort of supressor though the numbers are now different, anyhow I will be removing them.

One thing I must say is that Sure are very efficient on the postage end, at least to Aus, I think my board came within 5 working days!

Any updates on output inductors/coils, I am trying to decide which way to go, hedging towards air cores.

What is the run in time on one of these boards, the 2024 boards seemed to need about 30 hrs or so?

Nehon · 11th March 2010, 11:55 AM

5 working days? Unbelievable, from China to Italy about 25 working days.
Theese suppressors adds a parasitic capacitance to the input, I have not find any datasheets about them so I don't know the right value but I think that the best way is remove them.

Abeam · 11th March 2010, 05:33 PM

Has anyone tried Colicraft's ser1360 series inductors? They look pretty good and I have 6uH and 4.7uH kicking around. I haven't received my amp yet so I don't known if they'll fit. Does anyone have dimensions on the pads on the board?

dr_vega · 11th March 2010, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbieboy

I would love to know if there are and what benefits is to be had for using a PSU beyond 24v ? I am about to buy my PSU, so will hold off for a bit

The Sure is designed for 32V. Look at previous posts to see why. The difference is slight, but it's what the stock configuration of the board wants.

dr_vega

Zero One · 14th March 2010, 08:51 AM

I have my first board up and running as a test mule.

So far I have added new input caps (foil) and left the small caps in parallel, removed the other input caps and resistors and those odd devices across the inputs and removed the 2 main diodes on the power input.

The amp is running on 26V battery power using large SLAs.

The sound for the first 5 mins was terrible but it soon smoothed out (funny characteristic that) it is burning in nicely and has 6 hrs or so up and frankly sounds mighty fine even now. It runs very cool, I cannot detect any heat on the heatsink, but then I am certainly not pushing it hard either, currently just of my iPods dock outlet.

At this point I would have to say it is the best bang for buck amp I have ever heard.

I am planning to add air core inductors and lay them down parallel with the board and place them in copper tubing with a good air gap to fully shield them.

I think I might place tank caps right at the chips on the bottom of the board, probably 1000 uf pannys with 2200 uf outboard in place of the current tank caps, I will probably put small tant caps across the 1000 uf caps as well.

Separate 5V supply for the fan from its own reg etc fed by a separate battery, this will feed all the fans as there will be 4 2050 boards plus 2 2024 in total to feed a pair of 6 Driver OBs that I have had running on gainclones for the last 18 months or so.

Largish value cap across the batteries to kill residual noise, I will need to test for the optimum.

Change the resistors needed to match the power supply.

Place a pair of copper clad shield boards above and below the current one earthed to the ground point on the amp board,

So does anyone have further suggestions that are likely to give a real improvement or warnings for my intended pathway.

Barbieboy · 14th March 2010, 09:30 AM

What about the output caps Zero One ?

Zero One · 14th March 2010, 09:40 AM

Hi Barbieboy, any suggestions on those.

Barbieboy · 14th March 2010, 10:23 AM

No Zero One, I've changed the input caps like everyone else, but the 'outs' seem to be a bit of a grey area... Have circled in red where they are, not sure if all the components here should be changed though.

14th March 2010, 08:51 AM	#1117
Zero One diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Goulburn NSW	Here is the plan, any comments I have my first board up and running as a test mule. So far I have added new input caps (foil) and left the small caps in parallel, removed the other input caps and resistors and those odd devices across the inputs and removed the 2 main diodes on the power input. The amp is running on 26V battery power using large SLAs. The sound for the first 5 mins was terrible but it soon smoothed out (funny characteristic that) it is burning in nicely and has 6 hrs or so up and frankly sounds mighty fine even now. It runs very cool, I cannot detect any heat on the heatsink, but then I am certainly not pushing it hard either, currently just of my iPods dock outlet. At this point I would have to say it is the best bang for buck amp I have ever heard. I am planning to add air core inductors and lay them down parallel with the board and place them in copper tubing with a good air gap to fully shield them. I think I might place tank caps right at the chips on the bottom of the board, probably 1000 uf pannys with 2200 uf outboard in place of the current tank caps, I will probably put small tant caps across the 1000 uf caps as well. Separate 5V supply for the fan from its own reg etc fed by a separate battery, this will feed all the fans as there will be 4 2050 boards plus 2 2024 in total to feed a pair of 6 Driver OBs that I have had running on gainclones for the last 18 months or so. Largish value cap across the batteries to kill residual noise, I will need to test for the optimum. Change the resistors needed to match the power supply. Place a pair of copper clad shield boards above and below the current one earthed to the ground point on the amp board, So does anyone have further suggestions that are likely to give a real improvement or warnings for my intended pathway.

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11th March 2010, 06:19 AM	#1112
mfong diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2006	I think they're diodes. This is the first one I've had, so I never saw the old version of the board. I'd be surprised to find out that they're big capacitors of any kind. I find it interesting that SURE seems to pay attention to this board. They added the fan to the heatsink, then ran the fan at 5 volts. I think both ideas came up in this thread.

11th March 2010, 07:11 AM	#1113
Zero One diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Goulburn NSW	I looked back at the early post on this thread and it seems they are some sort of supressor though the numbers are now different, anyhow I will be removing them. One thing I must say is that Sure are very efficient on the postage end, at least to Aus, I think my board came within 5 working days! Any updates on output inductors/coils, I am trying to decide which way to go, hedging towards air cores. What is the run in time on one of these boards, the 2024 boards seemed to need about 30 hrs or so?

11th March 2010, 11:55 AM	#1114
Nehon diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2009	5 working days? Unbelievable, from China to Italy about 25 working days. Theese suppressors adds a parasitic capacitance to the input, I have not find any datasheets about them so I don't know the right value but I think that the best way is remove them.

11th March 2010, 05:33 PM	#1115
Abeam diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2010	Has anyone tried Colicraft's ser1360 series inductors? They look pretty good and I have 6uH and 4.7uH kicking around. I haven't received my amp yet so I don't known if they'll fit. Does anyone have dimensions on the pads on the board?

14th March 2010, 09:30 AM	#1118
Barbieboy diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: London	What about the output caps Zero One ?

14th March 2010, 09:40 AM	#1119
Zero One diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Goulburn NSW	Hi Barbieboy, any suggestions on those.

14th March 2010, 10:23 AM	#1120
Barbieboy diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: London	No Zero One, I've changed the input caps like everyone else, but the 'outs' seem to be a bit of a grey area... Have circled in red where they are, not sure if all the components here should be changed though.

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