Yes, for sure.
Most of all, the running time will depend on the efficiency / sensitivity of the speaker. What speaker do you want to use?
I used a 2600mAh LiFePO4 battery with 90dB/W speakers with a 41Hz Amp11. (Amp11 is very similar to the Sure amps.) It lasted for 6 - 48 hours, depending on volume. 90dB/W is not very good for battery life, you can get longer running time easily with a more sensitive speaker than I had.
You might want to increase the gain in the amp to compensate for the 10-15dB loss in the EQ. It is very easy - probably just two easy resistors to change. Then you have all the sensitivity of 98dB, so it will work pretty well I think!
The charger depends 100% on the battery type ... Google or the forums will let you know. Maybe you need to put a resistor between the amp and battery if the charger is always connected. (I got a little noise when the charger was charging, if I didn't have a resistor between.)
OK then I think you don't have to change the gain - I misunderstood and thought you were talking about a passive lossy EQ.
I don't know about the gain resistors in this amp, only the 41Hz ones, but there's probably info in this thread, and also in the TP2050 datasheet.
Hi Scott, I don't have a gain glone, in fact the only amps I have built from scratch are the 41Hz.com Amp6 and Amp 9... I'm pretty new to this.
Anyway, I'm planning use Sure's 2x100w to replace two LM3886 based amps, as I recently picked up some active studio monitor type speakers, which were powered by a LM3886 based amp modules.
The speakers in question are called Event TR8, but they are less well known than Mackie or Genelec speakers but are very similar. Event's implementation of the LM3886 was not good in my opinion... Minimal heatsink, underrated trafo, which lead to poor dynamics and a harsh rough sound when the volume is turned up.
I didn't realise how poor they sounded until I blew one of the amp modules (did I mention poor heatsink!?
) without too much trouble. I'm running a couple of external TA2020 based amps externally for now, and the speakers sound nicer and more refined.So, I decided to pull all the electronics from the speakers, and instead use 2x sure boards, and independent 32v SMPS'....
Once I get the Sure boards installed, I'll be able to post some thoughts, but it may turn out to be a poor comparison as the LM3886 based amps were so poor implemented...
3875
Thanks for the reply. I found that a single 3886 sounded a little distant and boring in my system compared to my better amps. BPA300 would be much better if you have a balanced source but then once you go that far you might as well consider one of the modules based on the LME driver chips.
I've got an LM3886 amp, a TDA8920 monoblock amp, and a TK2050 amp. I've got a volume-compensated relay box (see picture) that could be used to compare them. Might be fun to do the testing, but it's not high up on the priority list, so it may take a while to get to it.
my sure board failed
Hi folks, just wanted to know if sure-electronics is solid in support ... ?
I mean after purchased products of them. For example my TK 2050 failed after some days.
I noticed that the cooling fan was stopped and a tiny noise/buzz came out of the amp. I couldn´t get started the amp since that time. I was running the board at 30 Volts. Reducing down to 23 Volst didn´t help ... Any ideas ?
Since 5 days I wait for reply from the support. Are they too busy at present or don´t care customer´s concerns after selling ?
Please look at the video. The blue HMute LED flashes at the beginning and after a while it shines forever. After the stop of cooling fan I can hear this noise/buzz
YouTube - TK2050-fail.avi
Hi folks, just wanted to know if sure-electronics is solid in support ... ?
I mean after purchased products of them. For example my TK 2050 failed after some days.
I noticed that the cooling fan was stopped and a tiny noise/buzz came out of the amp. I couldn´t get started the amp since that time. I was running the board at 30 Volts. Reducing down to 23 Volst didn´t help ... Any ideas ?Since 5 days I wait for reply from the support. Are they too busy at present or don´t care customer´s concerns after selling ?
Please look at the video. The blue HMute LED flashes at the beginning and after a while it shines forever. After the stop of cooling fan I can hear this noise/buzz
YouTube - TK2050-fail.avi
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Unleashed
You have unleashed the Genie. Now all of the DIY amp collectors must continually hound you for a report.I've got an LM3886 amp, a TDA8920 monoblock amp, and a TK2050 amp. I've got a volume-compensated relay box (see picture) that could be used to compare them. Might be fun to do the testing, but it's not high up on the priority list, so it may take a while to get to it.
It's odd how people need to have opinions and how threatened and defensive they get when someone does a controlled experiment that challenges those opinions. I made some relay boxes for DCDIY2004 that were used for capacitor testing back in the days when the Madisound board was active. The controlled blind and double blind experiments we ran that year resulted in the longest and most hostile discussions on the Mad board that I've ever seen on any forum.
Any any time I do one of these controlled tests, it seems like someone else gets pissed off at me. *sigh* I just want answers, not drama...
O.K. as I see everybody is busy in his interest. Though that I would be glad if someone could give a bit attention how I should check up if my sure-board is damaged or not.
This I received from support:
"
1. Please check whether your board is short circuit by multimeter first.
Please test the DC output voltage V1 and V2 without the speakers. V1 is voltage drop between Vout1+ and GND and V2 is voltage drop between Vout1- and GND.
Please test the DC output voltage V3 and V4 without the speakers. V3 is voltage drop between Vout2+ and GND and V4 is voltage drop between Vout2- and GND.
2. If the board is ok, you may remove the fan directly by cut off the connection wire to see whether the board could work normally.
Generally speaking, the board could realize heat dissipation through heat sink alone."
How to handle this ? Yes I have a multimeter but how to check up shor circuit ? Is it explained in the following sentences "... the DC output voltage V1 ..." ?
Should I connect the SMPS before ... I think yes or ?
Wishes
This I received from support:
"
1. Please check whether your board is short circuit by multimeter first.
Please test the DC output voltage V1 and V2 without the speakers. V1 is voltage drop between Vout1+ and GND and V2 is voltage drop between Vout1- and GND.
Please test the DC output voltage V3 and V4 without the speakers. V3 is voltage drop between Vout2+ and GND and V4 is voltage drop between Vout2- and GND.
2. If the board is ok, you may remove the fan directly by cut off the connection wire to see whether the board could work normally.
Generally speaking, the board could realize heat dissipation through heat sink alone."
How to handle this ? Yes I have a multimeter but how to check up shor circuit ? Is it explained in the following sentences "... the DC output voltage V1 ..." ?
Should I connect the SMPS before ... I think yes or ?
Wishes
Measure volts
Measure volts with the amp turned on with the black probe on ground and then touch the red probe to each speaker terminal one at a time. They should all read half of the supply voltage.
Measure volts with the amp turned on with the black probe on ground and then touch the red probe to each speaker terminal one at a time. They should all read half of the supply voltage.
Connex Power Supplies?
I was wondering if anyone has tried running their Sure board with one of the power supplies sold by Connex:
Connexelectronic
Connexelectronic
Connexelectronic
I ask because Meanwell's power supply (specifically, the 350 watt one) is a bit too bulky for my needs, and I'm interested in alternatives. The Connex units are smaller, and they specifically mention compatibility with their TA3020 and TA2022 boards. Thoughts?
I was wondering if anyone has tried running their Sure board with one of the power supplies sold by Connex:
Connexelectronic
Connexelectronic
Connexelectronic
I ask because Meanwell's power supply (specifically, the 350 watt one) is a bit too bulky for my needs, and I'm interested in alternatives. The Connex units are smaller, and they specifically mention compatibility with their TA3020 and TA2022 boards. Thoughts?
With the LM3886 is really easy to hack together a working amplifier that is by far not excellent, but not bad either... TK2050 I find by far superior in sound, but even here on a DIY forum I don't see a lot of guys designing their own board... The LM3886 doesn't even need a board
dont ground the meanwell, put them in series, and have 48v for the st517
Such confusion! It's STA517B for the record, and there's also an STA516B which is almost the same, then there are some Apogee chips that also fit in and can deliver much more current. The fets in these packages outperform the ones in the TP2050 by far!
Optimum implementation for bass drivers
I am wanting to use a pair of 2050s to drive 4 x 12 inch OB drivers. Two drivers per side 8 Ohm per channel. Currently I am using a car amp but it has limitations and ideally I want the each amp mounted on the back of the speakers.
So what is the best implementation of the 2050 module for this specific purpose.
I currently have 3.3 uf foil caps, removed the inputs bits not needed and have 24V battery supplies, everything else in the system is also off the grid.
I could go to 36v but I worry that the charged batteries would actually be closer to 40V and I want longevity not short term oomph and then burn out
The main issue is what to replace the std coils with, Air cores or torroids and what value. I suspect some additional Capacitance very close to the chip might help.
I have the fans running off separate supplies so no noise issues there now. The amps sound rather good on full range applications but have some grain due to the coils I suspect, certainly the amps lack the utter sweetness of the Helder 2020 MK3s which I am using for the tweeters and mids.
Basically I want to keep the bass very clean and tight and anything above 200 hz is filtered out so it is of no consequence.
Any ideas
I am wanting to use a pair of 2050s to drive 4 x 12 inch OB drivers. Two drivers per side 8 Ohm per channel. Currently I am using a car amp but it has limitations and ideally I want the each amp mounted on the back of the speakers.
So what is the best implementation of the 2050 module for this specific purpose.
I currently have 3.3 uf foil caps, removed the inputs bits not needed and have 24V battery supplies, everything else in the system is also off the grid.
I could go to 36v but I worry that the charged batteries would actually be closer to 40V and I want longevity not short term oomph and then burn out
The main issue is what to replace the std coils with, Air cores or torroids and what value. I suspect some additional Capacitance very close to the chip might help.
I have the fans running off separate supplies so no noise issues there now. The amps sound rather good on full range applications but have some grain due to the coils I suspect, certainly the amps lack the utter sweetness of the Helder 2020 MK3s which I am using for the tweeters and mids.
Basically I want to keep the bass very clean and tight and anything above 200 hz is filtered out so it is of no consequence.
Any ideas
symmetrical
Those are all symmetrical power supplies which supply + and - voltage. Ask the designer how well they will work as a single supply.
Those are all symmetrical power supplies which supply + and - voltage. Ask the designer how well they will work as a single supply.
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