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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Sure Electronics New Tripath Board  tc2000+tp2050
Sure Electronics New Tripath Board  tc2000+tp2050
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Old 18th September 2009, 05:38 PM   #491
swkbkk is offline swkbkk  Thailand
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Can anyone give me some hints on removing the inductors? I am finding them very difficult to get rid of! I tried heating up the "silvery" sides with a solder gun, but they don't go loose. How do I remove them without damaging the board?
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Old 18th September 2009, 05:54 PM   #492
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Coil removal

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Originally Posted by swkbkk View Post
Can anyone give me some hints on removing the inductors?
.
Place a small screw driver under one side of the coil by the solder. Use the soldering iron tip to pry up, along with the screw driver to lift one side. With one side up, the second side can be pushed off the pad easily with the iron tip
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Old 18th September 2009, 10:14 PM   #493
HerrBender is offline HerrBender  United States
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Default Meanwell 27V DC 13A 351W

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Originally Posted by sendler View Post
.
Too bad Sure doesn't sell a 27 or 30v supply. It is nice to know that you can run the new style amps that come with fan cooling at 37v and high power into 6ohms without the heat sinks even getting warm.
I got my Meanwell 27V DC 13A 351W from Sure Electronics about two months ago. The Meanwell 27V will go up to 32V with the pot adj. I'm running two 2*100W boards at 30V - still testing. Just installed them in a case two days ago).

Great Thread - Thanks guys for all the information and making me aware of
this great little board.
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Old 19th September 2009, 06:14 AM   #494
SimonKit is offline SimonKit  Netherlands
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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A question about the power supply. I have a trafo (2x18 VAC) and something similar to this: http://bit.ly/aRyBL
In goes 18 AC and out comes 28 DC. However normally I can connect the [-][GND][+] to the PCB of my amp with 3 wires. In this case I can only connect the [GND] and [+] ? Is this correct?
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Old 20th September 2009, 06:35 AM   #495
SimonKit is offline SimonKit  Netherlands
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Forget my previous question because my brother explained me a bit and I have been reading about using them in series or parallel.

Another issue: how can I use the mute function so the amplifier starts playing when a signal comes in the input? Or is this not the normal use?
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Old 20th September 2009, 01:52 PM   #496
dr_vega is offline dr_vega  United States
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Location: Southern Oregon
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonKit View Post
Another issue: how can I use the mute function so the amplifier starts playing when a signal comes in the input? Or is this not the normal use?
The mute does not turn the amp on and off, it "disconnects" the speakers while the amp is on. It's most common use is to keep the speakers disconnected until after the thump when you first turn on the amp.

Because the standby current is so low in digital amps, it costs almost nothing to leave them on all the time. Then they will start playing when a signal arrives.

-dr_vega
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Old 20th September 2009, 02:29 PM   #497
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default C19, 21, 22, 27 critical to the sound?

C19, 21, 22, 27. How critical are these to the sound? Should we upgrade?
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Old 20th September 2009, 03:26 PM   #498
dr_vega is offline dr_vega  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
C19, 21, 22, 27. How critical are these to the sound? Should we upgrade?
IMHO all upgrades you want to do are worth doing, just for what you learn. As to improving the sound, I doubt if it will make an audible difference. They are part of the feedback loop and not directly in the path of that. And smt caps tend to be very fast. I doubt if you could improve them much, perhaps going to Oscons. You might want to upgrade resistors R15, R22, R28, and R33. They also bleed off the feedback loop.

But the real gains in the feedback come from replacing resistors R13, R17, R25, and R31. They are directly in the feedback signal path and should be matched to your power supply voltage (see my previous posts).

Anyone else want to weigh in on replacing surface mount caps. Can you improve them?

-dr_vega
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Old 20th September 2009, 10:30 PM   #499
ElFishi is offline ElFishi  Europe
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I fried it
I inadvertently interrupted the connections to some tank caps before the board and reconnected them again while the amp was under voltage.
There was a smacking sound of something blowing.

Now I measure some 2 Ohms across VCC and GND, it draws a lot of current when I try to run it and the power led doesn't come on. I tried and disconnected all the tank caps I have onboard - they are not to blame.
When I hook the whole amp up to my lab power supply both tp2050 get hot, but apparently nothing else.

I can check that the LM317 is OK, b/c I can run that separately as I interrupted the traces on the PCB as audio1st has taught us (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showp...&postcount=170). When I interrupt the jumper to Vcc and apply the voltage only to Vin of the LM317, the power led does shine.
However, in this configuration (no voltage on Vcc, voltage on Vin) the right channel TP2050 gets hot, left doesn't.

Any hope?
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Old 21st September 2009, 06:56 AM   #500
SimonKit is offline SimonKit  Netherlands
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I fried it too! I heard a hissing noise while playing which I did not hear before so resoldered some points. I removed some surplus solder (in the wrong way I am affraid with a small screwdriver). I also removed the RCA connectors because I was affraid they could function as antenna. Then I started it up and heard a high peeping noise. One test speaker is no longer with us. RIP.
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