Thanks, Audio1st and Kingbowser for your suggestions and input.
I know nothing about electronics but if they are there to clip voltage above 6V to protect TC2000 then should I be a little scared about removing them?
But then, can the exact clipping function could be causing *something* to be missing in the sound?
BTW, am I right in thinking that those "BJ 6CA"s are connecting through the supplied RCA sockets (J7 and J8) only therefore if the input signal is provided through the terminal block (J9), then these "BJ 6CA"s won't be in the path and won't be doing their clipping function?
I know nothing about electronics but if they are there to clip voltage above 6V to protect TC2000 then should I be a little scared about removing them?
But then, can the exact clipping function could be causing *something* to be missing in the sound?
BTW, am I right in thinking that those "BJ 6CA"s are connecting through the supplied RCA sockets (J7 and J8) only therefore if the input signal is provided through the terminal block (J9), then these "BJ 6CA"s won't be in the path and won't be doing their clipping function?
Thanks Audio1st for confirming.
I will first have to find some time to go out and buy the basic tools like a multimeter, a soldering gun, etc before I can even start contemplating doing any kind of mods and then I will have to gather some courage to heat the solder up. I told you I am a lame newbie
I hope there will be more feedback on this issue by the time I get my tools though.
I will first have to find some time to go out and buy the basic tools like a multimeter, a soldering gun, etc before I can even start contemplating doing any kind of mods and then I will have to gather some courage to heat the solder up. I told you I am a lame newbie
I hope there will be more feedback on this issue by the time I get my tools though.
Hi,
This project seems to be quite interesting, to take a step further, Danny from GR research came up with a good idea of powering this amp with rechargeable battery cells(24V). He uses Virtue amp which has similar chipsets to the Sure Elect. TP2050/TC2000 combo.
Since this amp has about 85% efficiency it seem quite viable to use battery powered power supply and more importantly the sound quality is improved.
Those you have used this amp so far can you report any deficiencies(if any) in this board as I am thinking of buying one.
Cheers. Happy Listening.
This project seems to be quite interesting, to take a step further, Danny from GR research came up with a good idea of powering this amp with rechargeable battery cells(24V). He uses Virtue amp which has similar chipsets to the Sure Elect. TP2050/TC2000 combo.
Since this amp has about 85% efficiency it seem quite viable to use battery powered power supply and more importantly the sound quality is improved.
Those you have used this amp so far can you report any deficiencies(if any) in this board as I am thinking of buying one.
Cheers. Happy Listening.
Does this seem a good power supply for this amp?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206512353&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&salenotsupported
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206512353&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&salenotsupported
vaughn said:
Switching P.S introduces HF spurious signals into the audio circuitry not condusive towards high quality audio reproduction. This is common knowledge among audiophiles.
Go to this GR research for a review, comparing switching PS to battery pack.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=68341.0
I agree totally and batteries run down and as they run down what they supply changes. I run a lot of mobile PA gear, I would never use batteries (permanently) on an indoor system.
Iv'e been playing around a bit with linear regulators post laptop SMPS which seems to work quite well, not that you would need it on the TC2000/TP2050 board. Needs more refining though:
http://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_itemId=1054
col.
I just have received the Mean Well PSU rated at 24V 6A that I ordered and I am a little confused as to how to wire the PSU to the board.
I thought I would just run a single pair of wires from the PSU to the board but then I see that they have two pairs of terminals both on the PSU and the amp board.
The DC output terminals on the PSU have COM, COM, V+, V+ and the DC input terminals on the amp board have two holes on the GND and two holes on the VCC.
I am wondering if it is *safe* to run two pairs of the wires between them like below:
COM ------- GND
COM ------- GND
V+ ------- VCC
V+ ------- VCC
I am thinking of doing this only because the supplied wires are very thin and running two pairs might help. But then I am not sure if I have misunderstood something and going to fry my board.
Or should I just forget about this stupid idea and just run a single pair of wires?
I thought I would just run a single pair of wires from the PSU to the board but then I see that they have two pairs of terminals both on the PSU and the amp board.
The DC output terminals on the PSU have COM, COM, V+, V+ and the DC input terminals on the amp board have two holes on the GND and two holes on the VCC.
I am wondering if it is *safe* to run two pairs of the wires between them like below:
COM ------- GND
COM ------- GND
V+ ------- VCC
V+ ------- VCC
I am thinking of doing this only because the supplied wires are very thin and running two pairs might help. But then I am not sure if I have misunderstood something and going to fry my board.
Or should I just forget about this stupid idea and just run a single pair of wires?
i'm not sure, but it seems to have the same "problem" like minevaughn said:
(i bought This from Sure togheter with my board)
seems to have good performance, but also a FIXED AND SO NOISY FAN !
working to ist maximum speed ever....
IMHO unusable in a HiFi environment..
maximum power FANLESS Switching P.S. from Sure seems to be this , in eBay you can find fanless 24V 8A or 10A smps, don't know how good they are (not MeanWell branded anyway)
p.s. my 1st post here after a large lurking,
HELLO DIYAUDIO.COM , YOU RULE !
Batteries tend to be low impedance at low frequencies - and DC. But at higher frequencies the impedance can climb pretty high.
A class-d amp is going to be throwing a lot of high frequency noise back at the power supply. Battereis don't always handle that well. But you can always decouple them and add filtering, just like any other power supply.
Please try the batteries, you may like them, I just have not found them to be as great as many people imagine. But they are not bad. For preamps and stuff like that, they are very nice.
A class-d amp is going to be throwing a lot of high frequency noise back at the power supply. Battereis don't always handle that well. But you can always decouple them and add filtering, just like any other power supply.
Please try the batteries, you may like them, I just have not found them to be as great as many people imagine. But they are not bad. For preamps and stuff like that, they are very nice.
Hi there!
I also received my board a couple a days ago. I have replaced input caps, removed those voltage limiters, added a big capacitor on the psu, replaced heat sink which is somehow glued to the chips. Still I want to change those output coils and those capacitors on the output. In the sure scheme there is a value 10uH and in the tripath scheme is 15uH and on the board is (I guess) 22uH. Also those bigger gray capacitors are 680nF instead of 470nF as in the scheme of sure. Can somebody confirm my findings and what would happen if I change 680nF output caps with some wima 470nF.
Regards Aleš
I also received my board a couple a days ago. I have replaced input caps, removed those voltage limiters, added a big capacitor on the psu, replaced heat sink which is somehow glued to the chips. Still I want to change those output coils and those capacitors on the output. In the sure scheme there is a value 10uH and in the tripath scheme is 15uH and on the board is (I guess) 22uH. Also those bigger gray capacitors are 680nF instead of 470nF as in the scheme of sure. Can somebody confirm my findings and what would happen if I change 680nF output caps with some wima 470nF.
Regards Aleš
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