Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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So you replaced the 6 power caps with 6 of the Panasonic?

Did you use these?

I use Panasonic FC series as per digikey, but in US you can get better quality caps refer to Nelson pass Thread, go to his forum look under Capacitor, he recommends using Elna Silk type he said good value and excellent sound, also you can try using Panasonic FM series also very good, you can buy from Digikey. Replace all the Sure caps(6units) with 2*1000uF(one on each end) Elna silk cap. Your sound will be transformed, I guarantee it.
 
I use Panasonic FC series as per digikey, but in US you can get better quality caps refer to Nelson pass Thread, go to his forum look under Capacitor, he recommends using Elna Silk type he said good value and excellent sound, also you can try using Panasonic FM series also very good, you can buy from Digikey. Replace all the Sure caps(6units) with 2*1000uF(one on each end) Elna silk cap. Your sound will be transformed, I guarantee it.

thanks ttan. just to clarify (I am very new to working with the power side of things) - I Just need to order 2 of the 1000uf Elna's. And when you say to place them on each end, do you mean like in the pic below?
 

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Finally managed to finish my 6-channel amp based on the Sure 2*100W. I am still waiting for the Zobel components which I need to install, but so far I am pretty happy with the sound. The boards are unmodified except for a Nichicon Muse 4.7uF bipolar input cap. i'll spend some more time listening before I consider further mods.

Pics:

IMG_2259x.jpg


IMG_2263x.jpg



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Looks really nice nisbeth, but how does the case and amps handle the heat generated by 6 channels with stock passive cooling?
Is it a modushop case you have use and if so which? (more pictures from all angles is in my wish list ;) ).

How did you write on the back of your case? Do you have some sort of silk screen stuff?
 
Looks really nice nisbeth, but how does the case and amps handle the heat generated by 6 channels with stock passive cooling?
Is it a modushop case you have use and if so which? (more pictures from all angles is in my wish list ;) ).

How did you write on the back of your case? Do you have some sort of silk screen stuff?

You're out of luck because I've just finished rearranging and recabling my system and there's no way I am going to take the amp out of the rack to take more pictures of it :p :smash:

As for your other points:

- Heat: No issues to report and the top panel is just warm to the touch after a whole day of listening. I do tend to listen quietly though and there's quite good ventilation around the amp so you may get different results. Before I cased the boards I measured the heatsink temp. after about 30 mins. idling or quiet listening to about 55-60C so it's quite hot in there :D

- Case: Modushop Slimline 1U/280. Two boards and a PSU (this PSU) would fit in a GX348 and one board + this PSU (which is then overkill...) would (just) fit in a GX248.

- Writing on back: Easy, I cheat and get these guys to make them for me: http://www.schaeffer-ag.de. Not the cheapest way to do it, but so nice and easy I am never going back to drilling holes manually on my kitchen table :D


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- Writing on back: Easy, I cheat and get these guys to make them for me: http://www.schaeffer-ag.de. Not the cheapest way to do it, but so nice and easy I am never going back to drilling holes manually on my kitchen table :D


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Can I ask what a backside like yours cost? Did you send them the enclosure or how does it work?

Did you just mount the stand-offs through the bottom plate or do you have an inlay in the case?
 
was there a noticeable improvement when upgrading the coils? I don't think anyone's actually posted about the audible differences when using toroids...
I upgraded the input caps to Dayton poly foils at the same time, so I don't know what they contributed and what the coils contributed. All I can say is that while it sounded good before, it sounds better now, smoother and more detailed, very transparent.

I'm playing with a tube pre-amp and the Sure is very revealing about the subtle changes in sound texture as I experiment with different tubes. It makes tube rolling a lot of fun.

Anyway, you can get a set of first rate coils from Arjen for less than $10 and the installation is easy, so why not? It's worth it just for the fun of the upgrade and satisfying one's curiosity. Go for it.

-dr_vega
 
Brilliant. I will save a bit of cash then! thank you! :)

When P = I * I * R where R is 4 ohms
I = 5A, for both channel you need 10A RMS at max output, hence I-peak is more than 10A, also according to the specification of Tripath TP2050 you need 30V to reach max output, anything less will cause a drop in output.
It's bettter to have a power supply which is 30V - 36V and capable to deliver at least up to 10A. For one who not looking for max output, can start with 10V.
For those like to replace the output coil, refer specification of Tripath TA2022 (90W), you need coil can handle up to 10A! I can't found anything close to that range and have to DIY. Any good alternative?
 
When P = I * I * R where R is 4 ohms
I = 5A, for both channel you need 10A RMS at max output, hence I-peak is more than 10A, also according to the specification of Tripath TP2050 you need 30V to reach max output, anything less will cause a drop in output.
It's bettter to have a power supply which is 30V - 36V and capable to deliver at least up to 10A. For one who not looking for max output, can start with 10V.
For those like to replace the output coil, refer specification of Tripath TA2022 (90W), you need coil can handle up to 10A! I can't found anything close to that range and have to DIY. Any good alternative?

The TA2022 docs are talking about the saturation capacity, not the power handling capacity. If fact, they recommend 22 gauge wire, which has a continuous power capacity of less than 1 amp.

They clearly state that bobbin style coils can't meet their 10A peak saturation requirement. They recommend Micrometals type 2 toroid cores. That is the core that Arjen uses.

The stock Sure coils are bobbins. Replacing them with Arjen's Micrometals toroid coils brings the board up to meet Tripath's most strigent requirements.

-dr_vega
 
The TA2022 docs are talking about the saturation capacity, not the power handling capacity. If fact, they recommend 22 gauge wire, which has a continuous power capacity of less than 1 amp.

They clearly state that bobbin style coils can't meet their 10A peak saturation requirement. They recommend Micrometals type 2 toroid cores. That is the core that Arjen uses.

The stock Sure coils are bobbins. Replacing them with Arjen's Micrometals toroid coils brings the board up to meet Tripath's most strigent requirements.

-dr_vega

Gauge 22 wire = dia 0.64516 mm
Refer MIL-STD-975.
Wire Bundle Ampacity (per wire) = 2.22A
Also Maximum frequency for 100% skin depth for solid conductor copper is: 42 kHz
For TP2050 working freq is xxx KHz to over 1 MHz.
For max output you need about 5A RMS, even for DC the about wire dia. is not enough, also it's not all area for transfer that current at the working freq, skin effort have to also consider.
It seen strange that, according to the specification, Tripath even have difficulty to deliver the power just out of the chips.
 
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When P = I * I * R where R is 4 ohms
I = 5A, for both channel you need 10A RMS at max output, hence I-peak is more than 10A, also according to the specification of Tripath TP2050 you need 30V to reach max output, anything less will cause a drop in output.
It's bettter to have a power supply which is 30V - 36V and capable to deliver at least up to 10A. For one who not looking for max output, can start with 10V.
For those like to replace the output coil, refer specification of Tripath TA2022 (90W), you need coil can handle up to 10A! I can't found anything close to that range and have to DIY. Any good alternative?

I doubt for my purposes the amps will be running at anywhere near full output, but I wil keep an eye out for any bigger supplies and try them too, thanks.
 
Can I ask what a backside like yours cost? Did you send them the enclosure or how does it work?

Did you just mount the stand-offs through the bottom plate or do you have an inlay in the case?

IIRC it was about 45 EUR less VAT and postage, so it is comparable to the cost of the cabinet :eek: The mill and engrave new alu plates based on your own drawings. You can have them work on your own chassis parts as well but for this there's no real point.

Stand-offs (8-10mm) are mounted directly on the chassis.


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