meiborg,
Removing your input capacitors will not hurt your amp since the output capacitors of your dsp blocks DC. But you may get a change in your sound. Changing the value of the input capacitor changes the bass to midrange balance, so removing it should change the sound too making the bass more prominent. Ideally, you would then adjust the value of the output capacitor on the preamp/dsp you are using to get the sound you want, but that isn't always possible.
James
Removing your input capacitors will not hurt your amp since the output capacitors of your dsp blocks DC. But you may get a change in your sound. Changing the value of the input capacitor changes the bass to midrange balance, so removing it should change the sound too making the bass more prominent. Ideally, you would then adjust the value of the output capacitor on the preamp/dsp you are using to get the sound you want, but that isn't always possible.
James
DONE WITH THE SURE MODS.
Yesterday night i finished modding the sure board.
So here it is : Zobel 0.47uf - 10 ohm.
The rest capacitors on the output are 0.47uf . The differential mode capacitor was changed to 0.22uf instead of 0.1uf . The funny thing here is that in the beginning i used wima mkp4 caps (sound was ok) then changed them with with ero mkt1822 (not so good) & then i used RIFA PHE426 & the sound is amazing, very high end i may say. I changed the inductors with 10u ones. I put 1 2200uf nichicon muse cap per channel & 2 panasonic fc 470uf at the 5v rail.
And the most imroved thing to do is disconnect the fan and supply it with an external power supply ( i used a modile phone charger with on/off switch), that worked great. Input caps are 2.2uf ERO MKC1862 (rare polycarbonate) bypassed with mkp1837 33nf.
This is it James. Sure board now is one of my favourites BUT YOU NEED TO SPEND SOME MONEY & TIME ON IT !!!
Now i will deal with the T2 from HiFimeDIY !!!
Yesterday night i finished modding the sure board.
So here it is : Zobel 0.47uf - 10 ohm.
The rest capacitors on the output are 0.47uf . The differential mode capacitor was changed to 0.22uf instead of 0.1uf . The funny thing here is that in the beginning i used wima mkp4 caps (sound was ok) then changed them with with ero mkt1822 (not so good) & then i used RIFA PHE426 & the sound is amazing, very high end i may say. I changed the inductors with 10u ones. I put 1 2200uf nichicon muse cap per channel & 2 panasonic fc 470uf at the 5v rail.
And the most imroved thing to do is disconnect the fan and supply it with an external power supply ( i used a modile phone charger with on/off switch), that worked great. Input caps are 2.2uf ERO MKC1862 (rare polycarbonate) bypassed with mkp1837 33nf.
This is it James. Sure board now is one of my favourites BUT YOU NEED TO SPEND SOME MONEY & TIME ON IT !!!
Now i will deal with the T2 from HiFimeDIY !!!
ok
Will post one tonight. Most of the parts are underneath the board but you will get the picture.
Will post one tonight. Most of the parts are underneath the board but you will get the picture.
I am so happy it is working for you. My amp sounds great too.
Yesterday night i finished modding the sure board.
So here it is : Zobel 0.47uf - 10 ohm.
The rest capacitors on the output are 0.47uf . Now i will deal with the T2 from HiFimeDIY !!!
James
!
I will try.
How did they kaboom. One i bought was dead on arrival & to tell you the truth I'm always in a fear situation that they might die one day. I ordered a better fan with heat-sink to replace the cheap one. I promise 2 high resolution photos of up & down side when i install that in too.
I will try.
How did they kaboom. One i bought was dead on arrival & to tell you the truth I'm always in a fear situation that they might die one day. I ordered a better fan with heat-sink to replace the cheap one. I promise 2 high resolution photos of up & down side when i install that in too.
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I have no idea how they kaboom. One of them simply exploded on one of two chips, another on the single chip.
The third works ok. Actually the first version still works, then I bought another new upgraded, which exploded, I got replacement, and then again kaboom.
I decided not to complain to sure anymore.
I hope you have better luck.
The third works ok. Actually the first version still works, then I bought another new upgraded, which exploded, I got replacement, and then again kaboom.
I decided not to complain to sure anymore.
I hope you have better luck.
Would this be suitable for powering one of these amps in a car?
DC-DC 10-32V Boost 12-35V Adjustable Power Supply 150W | eBay
If so would it run better with this at ~27v instead of directly powered by the 12v car battery?
Would it be possible to use two of these for one 4x100w amp to get 300w max?
Sorry for having so many questions =)
DC-DC 10-32V Boost 12-35V Adjustable Power Supply 150W | eBay
If so would it run better with this at ~27v instead of directly powered by the 12v car battery?
Would it be possible to use two of these for one 4x100w amp to get 300w max?
Sorry for having so many questions =)
If you are talking about the new board in the picture bellow then I think they must suck since all components but the tank caps are smd and by the size of the new it really lacks space for any mods, specially at the outputs.
I noticed also that they increased the price for the 4x100 boards so I can't really see it as a good sign.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I disagree since their boards are prone to catch on fire and this one looks like the real deal.
Maybe, after some mods you can use those as new generation of rocket propellant's or fire starters for barbacue.
"Sure Electronics aims to provide high-quality cost-efficient products to worldwide valuable customers through a high efficiency and fluent process at low additional charges."
Maybe they mislabeled it as amplifier board, who knows...
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Opinions please on this power supply for use in a car with above amp or similar class D (hifimediy)?
DC/DC Converter Regulator Step up & Step down 2 in 1 | eBay
DC/DC Converter Regulator Step up & Step down 2 in 1 | eBay
Avoid the board above at any costs. Stick with the previous model, Parts-express still have the 2x100 and 4x100 in stock and their warranty policy is top notch, better than Sure.
For a few extra bucks you can have a hifimediy t1, t2, or the 41Hz solution.
Both are almost trouble free with coherent pcb designs and component values.
Maybe this one 180W DC-DC 12 to +-32v voltage up Board for car new
That's not bad, it is isolated...
Though....
180/12=15
15A at the input of that board, while the designer uses 10A screw terminals for the 12V side...hmmm.... I mean, if they can't figure that one out how's the rest of it designed?? It also doesn't mention if it is regulated, which it should be as any good DC-DC converter for car audio is....
That's not bad, it is isolated...
Though....
180/12=15
15A at the input of that board, while the designer uses 10A screw terminals for the 12V side...hmmm.... I mean, if they can't figure that one out how's the rest of it designed?? It also doesn't mention if it is regulated, which it should be as any good DC-DC converter for car audio is....
Thanks for the input, any recommendations for a good regulated DC-DC converter? I can get a solid 12V to 24V converter for trucks but the voltage for a class-D amp is a bit low.
I'm planning a bi-amped Class-D project together with miniDSP and a PC for my RV/camper.
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