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| Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Hi to all.
I'm new on this forum, although i've been reading a lot of threads about Class D, i cannot decide which one can be more suitable for my purpose. I'm willing to make an audio system based on class D or class T amp and i would like to find from your experience which can be more suitable, and with the best price-performance ratio. Power should be at least 100W /ch at 4 Ohm, better 200-300W, 2 channels for the beginning. Thanx. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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any sugesstions ?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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bob,
do you really need that much power? I have been using a Tripath's TA2024 (9W or so) driving my transmission line speakers (TLD's RTL3) with great satisfaction. I was using a 90 watter! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Reykjavík
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I have build some 41Hz com Tripath amps. 41hz makes un-assembled kits, and they are pretty cheap as far as I can tell.
You can find people to build these boards up for you at the 41Hz site: http://www.41hz.com/Forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=21 There are some pretty good builders there. I'd check out the Amp10-BASIC 2x100W, Amp9-BASIC 4x100W and Amp11 +60W monoblock. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Something like AMP2 or truepath
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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bobsnakke, you want assembled modules? If you have the bucks you can't go wrong building a Hypex UcD180. It will be nearer your power requirements too.
http://minirig.org.au/2008/04/20/min...ex-ucd180-amp/ col.
__________________
http://www.minirig.org.au |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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If you want to make it really EASY to do, get the Hypex 180s and companion SMPS module. "Building" an amp becomes little more than mounting modules to some aluminum sheet surfaces, and connecting some wires to terminals and connectors.
Extremely nice result, too, and price is quite reasonable. Remember to factor in costs of --chassis --heatisnks (if required) and --transformers and filter capacitors (or switching SMPS supply equivalent) ...when calculating actual total price. These last three can dwarf the costs of the modules if you aren't careful -- the majority of the material cost in many commercial amps is for the damn boxes that they are built into! |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Reykjavík
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Quote:
really like your site. Sounds like nothing but bottomless fun. How would you compare your Amp9 and UcD180 amps? |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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Quote:
Tests that I did before I went full active. I must admit where the UcD180 is probably a more truer sound, there is something about the sparkle to the highs of the amp9 that make it great for running compression drivers and waveguides. Its all good! col.
__________________
http://www.minirig.org.au |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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For jazzy939
at the moment i use class AB amplifiers, which are quite big and ineficcient for my purpose. i use to use-it at parties, that's why i need at least 100W. and of course, to be light, this counts when i have to carry all the time. price for UCD or for 41Hz is still a little bit high for my budget, i will consider this eventually if i cannot find alternative. i keep searching. for bwaslo << --chassis --heatisnks (if required) and --transformers and filter capacitors (or switching SMPS supply equivalent) >> i plan to use an old amplifier housing, in which i can retrofit a new existing amplifier which i will buy. |
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