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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

newbie question - all-in-one d-class amp kits ?
newbie question - all-in-one d-class amp kits ?
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Old 10th October 2008, 10:16 PM   #11
Bane2871 is offline Bane2871  United States
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Texas
Originally posted by kristleifur

The Amp6-BASIC is an excellent piece of kit. Super easy, though not a 100% ideal absolute first kit. Edit: Excepting fully built boards, it's the esiest Class D kit you'll get.

Also, don't worry too much about surface mount. Once you get the hang of it, many find the surface mount to be less tedious than through-hole!

Here are some EXCELLENT videos, covering almost everything, from DIY guru Tangent:
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/ - Tangent Tutorials

I actually just ordered the AMP6-Basic.

It baffles me how anyone would even want to solder a 2021. And I'm not a novice with the soldering iron. Sound quality aside, I like how Ramsey does it, the chip amp is already installed on the PCB.

The rest of the components are pretty straight forward. A magnifying glass still helps, but I agree that in some ways the surface mount stuff is easier to build than through-hole.
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Old 11th October 2008, 02:59 PM   #12
albin is offline albin  United Kingdom
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Default working with small stuff

very good vids,see alsostereoscopic thing
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Old 11th October 2008, 03:35 PM   #13
Buckapound is offline Buckapound  United States
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
To Bane 2871:

I just about made a complete muckle of an Amp 32 kit (all surface mount) trying to use silver solder. Then, I found out this is just about impossible to use for this. Doh!

I globbed together a bunch of pins and in the end I used a magnifying glass and a very sharp X-acto knife to cut away the solder bridges and I did get the thing to sing. NOT the recommended way to go.

People who seem to know a lot more than I think the benefits of silver solder is way overstated (if any at all), so get a good eutectic lead/tin alloy and have at it. It has a lower melting point and higher surface tension, both very helpful qualities.

A couple of hints I learned. A flux pen is helpful to make sure there is always plenty of flux available, even if using flux-core solder. The best technique I've found for resistors, etc, is to barely wet one of the board tabs with the tiniest drop of solder. Hold the part in place with tweezers, and place the iron tip right where the chip joins the board and wait a second or so until it sticks--it doesn't have to be all the way flat Then, solder the other end, and if necessary, come back and reheat the first end and push it down flush with the board. Awkward at first, but you'll get the hang of it. It takes very little solder and heat to do this. A good magnifying glass is very helpful, This is microsurgery.

Check around this forum and the 41hz forums for more hints. Someone out there on the internet has a nice video tutorial on surface-mount soldering.

I can recommend the Amp 6, as the sound quality is very good and there are only a few, large surface-mount components.

Rock on!

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Old 11th October 2008, 08:13 PM   #14
Bane2871 is offline Bane2871  United States
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Texas
Good to know. I'm using silver solder simply because it was the smallest that Rat Shack carried. I have some rosin core that is a little bigger, but it seemed too big for the chip leads.

I'll give the flux pen a try, too. And the xacto.
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Old 12th October 2008, 02:51 AM   #15
Jiggen is offline Jiggen  Australia
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Maybe try one of Arjen's boards or a SureElectronic board. Easy to get up and running.
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Old 13th October 2008, 07:36 AM   #16
steamPunk is offline steamPunk  France
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do you have a link for Arjen or SureElectronic ?

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Old 13th October 2008, 09:02 AM   #17
Jiggen is offline Jiggen  Australia
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Arjen has a couple of threads on here. Look in the Vendors forum. Sure Electronics you can find on ebay. There's a huge thread about modding them in the Class D forum.
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Old 13th October 2008, 08:29 PM   #18
gfiandy is offline gfiandy  United Kingdom
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Location: Cambridge UK
Hi, Back to the origonal posters question.

If you can find an old intergrated amplifer (i.e one with a preamplifer, volume control, source selector, tone controls and an amplifier built in) then you could use the pre amplifer section and just replace the old amplifer which is the most likely part to have failed.

This would retain some of the old sound of the amplifer as well as the tone controls you wanted and alow you to try out a class D amp as the main power stage.

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Old 21st October 2008, 05:28 AM   #19
ArjenShenzhen is offline ArjenShenzhen  China
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Default Tone Controll

Hi there Steam Punk,

I think i can get some simple tone controll PCB's for you. for sure under 10 Euro per piece.

I also have the TA2020 and TA2024 Amps and now also a 6 Channel TA2020 amp. if you want some of those, let me know

Greetings from shenzhen China,

Always check the power supply... and my spelling...
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Old 26th October 2008, 02:37 PM   #20
steamPunk is offline steamPunk  France
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Default Hi again

gfiandy - that's kind of what I was thinking of doing, but replacing all the stuff inside with better quality/newer electronics - still, it may be a better doing it in several steps, like you suggest, replacing the main amplifier first and then if the sound isn't good I can replace the rest too

Arjen - what's the difference between TA2020 and TA2024 ? would you object if I email you for paypal details ?
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