Ah, +1 on the li-ion then 
... though I wouldn't call it huge myself, but hang things on a bike and they start to look different
edit - hang on a minute
The Connexelectronics kits *are* prebuilt btw! ... sorry, the proper term is probably "prebuilt amp board"
-- and a prebuilt Amp4 is only $125, last time I looked
... though I wouldn't call it huge myself, but hang things on a bike and they start to look different
edit - hang on a minute
budget minded said:
The Connexelectronics kits *are* prebuilt btw! ... sorry, the proper term is probably "prebuilt amp board"
-- and a prebuilt Amp4 is only $125, last time I looked
i just found that out in the sure thread and am getting ready to order a 100wpc and a couple 15wpcs.
thanks for your help. i'm really liking the sure units now as they're just what i need and dirt cheap too. batteries and a charger are still going to cost me, but that was a given all along.
i'll be posting the system at my website along with an instructable of the build.
just to give you an idea of what it will look like,
i'll be building it on an all chrome 72 spoke beach cruiser with the twisted handlebars & fork braces from the lowrider i sold recently as pictured at my website.
i'll be building an amp box that the speakers will hang off much like a pannier & saddlebag setup. the speakers are going to be pyle pro PDWR63 outdoor 6 1/2" two ways http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-218.
i plan on mounting the amp pointing up with a clear plexi window over it and either a red 80mm LED fan or more likely a magenta UV reactant translucent one as my tail light.
under the speakers will be 4 or 5 rows per side of blue EL wire and underneath that will be the batteries behind plexi too.
this system will be more of a show system than it's predecessor and hopefully much louder when cruising in front of clubs.
man! i REALLY wish there was a way to make DIY stop logging me off before i finish my replies!
thanks for your help. i'm really liking the sure units now as they're just what i need and dirt cheap too. batteries and a charger are still going to cost me, but that was a given all along.
i'll be posting the system at my website along with an instructable of the build.
just to give you an idea of what it will look like,
i'll be building it on an all chrome 72 spoke beach cruiser with the twisted handlebars & fork braces from the lowrider i sold recently as pictured at my website.
i'll be building an amp box that the speakers will hang off much like a pannier & saddlebag setup. the speakers are going to be pyle pro PDWR63 outdoor 6 1/2" two ways http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-218.
i plan on mounting the amp pointing up with a clear plexi window over it and either a red 80mm LED fan or more likely a magenta UV reactant translucent one as my tail light.
under the speakers will be 4 or 5 rows per side of blue EL wire and underneath that will be the batteries behind plexi too.
this system will be more of a show system than it's predecessor and hopefully much louder when cruising in front of clubs.
man! i REALLY wish there was a way to make DIY stop logging me off before i finish my replies!
budget minded said:
What are you talking about? They're standard 18650 cell size. They might have 50% less capacity of standard Li-ion cells but they weight 25% less and cost a-3rd. They can also be recharged at least 4 times as many times, and have much less capacity loss over time.
There's a reason these are the next generation of batteries to replace the aging standard li-ion cells of today.
Top points being faster charging, tolerates 50% higher operating temperatures (60C (140F) compared to 40C (105F)), higher discharge rate, completely non-explosive and non-flammable, and cheaper to mass produce.
and like i said... i'm NOT mounting a big box inside my bike frame and am most certainly NEVER going to mount a battery on one side of my bike and make it asymmetrical. this is to be a SHOW system.
it's also back to square one because sure doesn't consider people who refuse to deal with paypal OR own a telephone to be human.
back to my original question... where can i get a 50wpc class D module that's prebuilt (i forgot the "technical term") for under $100?
i tell you, uppity companies really try my patience.
it's also back to square one because sure doesn't consider people who refuse to deal with paypal OR own a telephone to be human.
back to my original question... where can i get a 50wpc class D module that's prebuilt (i forgot the "technical term") for under $100?
i tell you, uppity companies really try my patience.
then i just never understood your site. i thought all of your amps are KITS.
if all i have to do is hook up power, speaker & line in wires, then AWESOME! i'll order a 70wpc module immediately! i'm not keen on the yellow square circuit boards, but maybe i could hide them and just show off the sexy heatsinks instead. i wanted to show the amp off under a plexi window.
if your units are ready to roll... i might buy a 300w+ module too with my order as i need some power for subs as well. if not right away, i'll buy one and a power supply eventually as i was looking at $200+ "bash" sub amps.
a reply you made earlier confused me. you said something like $70-$80 for 70wpc amps when your site says $40ish for the modules and i couldn't find the more expensive units. maybe you were including power supplies which i don't need as i'll be running battery only.
if all i have to do is hook up power, speaker & line in wires, then AWESOME! i'll order a 70wpc module immediately! i'm not keen on the yellow square circuit boards, but maybe i could hide them and just show off the sexy heatsinks instead. i wanted to show the amp off under a plexi window.
if your units are ready to roll... i might buy a 300w+ module too with my order as i need some power for subs as well. if not right away, i'll buy one and a power supply eventually as i was looking at $200+ "bash" sub amps.
a reply you made earlier confused me. you said something like $70-$80 for 70wpc amps when your site says $40ish for the modules and i couldn't find the more expensive units. maybe you were including power supplies which i don't need as i'll be running battery only.
could anyone help me with the http://connexelectronic.com/ amps? i've tried viewing their PDFs with 4-5 different online PDF viewers to no avail. they all look more or less identical to me. i've tried asking for help there with the online info form and after a week, STILL haven't gotten a reply. i'm ready to build a system YESTERDAY. the rainy season is about a month, maybe two away here.
if anyone could tell me which unit would be best for a bike system would be appreciated. low power consumtion, low operating voltage, lowest bass extension & lowest distortion are all priorities unless differences are negligible. i don't really need 70wpc, just a clean 30wpc with solid bass i can make portable and improve upon my previous sonic impact.
these are the three "virtually identical" units
TDA8924TH
TDA8920TH
TDA8920BTH
maybe someone who knows more about circuits etc. could shed some light on the differences. many thanks in advance to anyone who can help me do better than close my eyes and just buy the most expensive one hoping it's somehow better and possibly being wrong.
if anyone could tell me which unit would be best for a bike system would be appreciated. low power consumtion, low operating voltage, lowest bass extension & lowest distortion are all priorities unless differences are negligible. i don't really need 70wpc, just a clean 30wpc with solid bass i can make portable and improve upon my previous sonic impact.
these are the three "virtually identical" units
TDA8924TH
TDA8920TH
TDA8920BTH
maybe someone who knows more about circuits etc. could shed some light on the differences. many thanks in advance to anyone who can help me do better than close my eyes and just buy the most expensive one hoping it's somehow better and possibly being wrong.
back to the lifepo batteries, the 1st time i looked, i saw a large chrome box unit i'm not seeing now. since returning, i'm just seeing battery packs which are really the same thing as i was intending to build with li-on cells. i'd rather go the cell route than the PACK route as i intended to make 2 rows of 5 X 3v cells under plexi windows kind of like capacitor displays in car systems and that would allow me to buy just ONE smart charger i could also use with all of my NIMH cells as i'm still charging them on an energizer "stupid charger". part of my plan was to get a smart charger as a double edged upgrade AND to be able to finally buy NIMH D & 9v cells for field recording. one LI-ON smart charger could cover all bases.
charging each cell individually also optimizes each cell's charge as well as let's me chose the best cells for the money, powermax.
"bang for the buck" is important to me.
charging each cell individually also optimizes each cell's charge as well as let's me chose the best cells for the money, powermax.
"bang for the buck" is important to me.
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right, i got that. that's what sold me on buying a unit as soon as possible. as to THREE units, i don't need that many. the other two i was considering at sure were 10wpc/12v systems for my PC and to hook a buddy up with portable amplification. sadly, 70w is your smallest unit and too much power for a pair of 4 X AA cells. if i get any other amps from you, they will be HIGHER power units for my DJ system's subwoofers unless you add low power amps down the road.
all i really need to know is which unit would be best for my bicycle application. a manual might be a bit over my head. i'd only have to ask a tech to interpret it for me anyways likely. i'm guessing the differences are small. if ALL of the amps have the same operating voltages, then it's not really that important. this is why i wanted an "already assembled". i'm not a circuit board savvy person.
back to batteries, i looked back into LiFePO4 technology and see that they ARE available as cells too and am thinking of getting these http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3294
4 of them would be about 25v AND the extra cool thing is that i could use them in standard D cell holders which would make fabricating battery holders much easier than with the odd size li-ons i originally considered, but the REAL selling point is that once the cardboard is removed, the chrome would match my bike and look REALLY cool on display.
looks are very important for this system. if i had my way, i'd do a full on custom molded fiberglass system, but that's not going to happen. i have no place to build one. i have to make do with "off the shelf" & woodworking tech.
all i really need to know is which unit would be best for my bicycle application. a manual might be a bit over my head. i'd only have to ask a tech to interpret it for me anyways likely. i'm guessing the differences are small. if ALL of the amps have the same operating voltages, then it's not really that important. this is why i wanted an "already assembled". i'm not a circuit board savvy person.
back to batteries, i looked back into LiFePO4 technology and see that they ARE available as cells too and am thinking of getting these http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3294
4 of them would be about 25v AND the extra cool thing is that i could use them in standard D cell holders which would make fabricating battery holders much easier than with the odd size li-ons i originally considered, but the REAL selling point is that once the cardboard is removed, the chrome would match my bike and look REALLY cool on display.
looks are very important for this system. if i had my way, i'd do a full on custom molded fiberglass system, but that's not going to happen. i have no place to build one. i have to make do with "off the shelf" & woodworking tech.
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- You'll need 8 pieces for 25V
- These have quite a bit more charge per weight: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2385 and are a much better buy overall
- You can probably peel the coating off these ones too, it's probably just heatshrink
- You want to be VERY careful if you do remove the coating, these cells can put out insane amounts of current and the shell is "live". I think you could actually fuse cells together if you accidentally knock a live, naked shell to the top pole of another cell! Re-coat them immediately, with something transparent
- Be sure to check out the little protection circuit boards on batteryspace, they do the adaptive charging and cell balancing for you
i know what you mean! i had a pair of plain old AA ni-cad batteries i stripped the coatings off burn me in the pocket when apparently my keys shorted them.
after some thought, i'm thinking i might go back to my original li-on plan because li-on batteries are just so much cheaper than li-pos. for much less than the $120 it would take to get 8 X 3.2v D cell sized lipos at about 25v, i could get 10 similarly rated li-ons for 32v and just wrap them in adhesive laser etched film to cover up the labels.
before that though, i STILL need to get the amp. as my question STILL hasn't been answered, i'm just going to go and order the most expensive 70wpc amp and HOPE that in some way it's better than the cheaper units.
i REALLY could have used the system i'm planning last night for the bikes and lights parade i was in. even just slapping some dollar store bioluminscent glow sticks on my spokes and an LED spinner on the front of my all chrome beach cruiser at the last moment got many thumbs up. a fully integrated sound system ride with EL wire could have gotten me $111 in bike parts.
i'm already thinking about v3.0 of my "on bike system" too after recently reading about a new fiberglass style tech that uses bamboo fabric instead of fiberglass and much less caustic chemicals. i've always wanted a full custom sculpted rig, but NOT using fiberglass. fiberglass is super itchy to work with!
after some thought, i'm thinking i might go back to my original li-on plan because li-on batteries are just so much cheaper than li-pos. for much less than the $120 it would take to get 8 X 3.2v D cell sized lipos at about 25v, i could get 10 similarly rated li-ons for 32v and just wrap them in adhesive laser etched film to cover up the labels.
before that though, i STILL need to get the amp. as my question STILL hasn't been answered, i'm just going to go and order the most expensive 70wpc amp and HOPE that in some way it's better than the cheaper units.
i REALLY could have used the system i'm planning last night for the bikes and lights parade i was in. even just slapping some dollar store bioluminscent glow sticks on my spokes and an LED spinner on the front of my all chrome beach cruiser at the last moment got many thumbs up. a fully integrated sound system ride with EL wire could have gotten me $111 in bike parts.
i'm already thinking about v3.0 of my "on bike system" too after recently reading about a new fiberglass style tech that uses bamboo fabric instead of fiberglass and much less caustic chemicals. i've always wanted a full custom sculpted rig, but NOT using fiberglass. fiberglass is super itchy to work with!
well. there goes ANOTHER place that won't be getting any business from me either. after all that running around and jumping through annoying registration hoops, i can't place an order with connexelectronic EITHER as they're another "paypal only" outfit! what is it with class D amps ALL requiring one bow to the "ebay/paypal" golden idol?
if a store refuses to accept my CC, i refuse to do business with them, plain and simple.
i'll repeat my apparently "impossible" question yet again...
where can i find a 50wpc or better class D amplifier module that doesn't require soldering or ebay/paypal? if i have to, i'll just get another scrawny sonic impact amp. i've already ordered speakers based on the premise that i could buy a connexelectronic amp. i'm most vexed at the moment.
if a store refuses to accept my CC, i refuse to do business with them, plain and simple.
i'll repeat my apparently "impossible" question yet again...
where can i find a 50wpc or better class D amplifier module that doesn't require soldering or ebay/paypal? if i have to, i'll just get another scrawny sonic impact amp. i've already ordered speakers based on the premise that i could buy a connexelectronic amp. i'm most vexed at the moment.
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Another solution for a battery sound system is:
2 pcs. (or more) T-amps
2 pcs. (or more) dual voice coil (4+4 ohms) woofer, a T-amp for each voice coil.
Woofers can share the same cabinet, or not.
Advantages:
- 12V power supply, without DC-DC converters.
- 44W rms total power (or 66W with 3 T-amps, and so on)
- modularity (for power saving also)
2 pcs. (or more) T-amps
2 pcs. (or more) dual voice coil (4+4 ohms) woofer, a T-amp for each voice coil.
Woofers can share the same cabinet, or not.
Advantages:
- 12V power supply, without DC-DC converters.
- 44W rms total power (or 66W with 3 T-amps, and so on)
- modularity (for power saving also)
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.