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Old 17th January 2008, 10:59 PM   #1
croger is offline croger  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Default UcD400HG MonoBlocks project... help please

Hello DIY'ers. this is my first foray into DIY audio. I ordered and received from Hypex UcD400HG amps, transformers, and PS's for two mono blocks. After much research on my part I figured out the proper wiring scheme. Believe me when I say I am a newbie to this. I am a Record Producer in NYC and have always wanted to build my own equipment. I figured this was a good start.

So I have a couple of questions for those more experienced.

1) I believe the proper cabling for Power Supply to UcD amp connections is 14AWG cable. But what type of cable? there are so many various types???? where can I buy in the USA?

2) The loud speaker connections from UcDamp to speaker binding post.... What cable for that? speaker wire? what type? Or just the 14AWG cable as well?

3) lame question number 3.... Can I mount the UcD400hg to the front aluminum face plate of the chassis for the heatsink? Or directly to the metal bottom? the top sides and bottom of the chassis I ordered are metal. I found a heatsink assembly that can be used on the Ucd400 from here: http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=551
Is this a better solution? there will be only one amp in each case. standard 2 rack height rack mount chassis w- aluminum face plate.

Any insight or advice to wiring this thing up would be much appreciated.

thanks for any help.

Roger
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Old 18th January 2008, 06:07 PM   #2
gl is offline gl  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sierra Foothills - California
Hi Roger,

In order:

1) 14AWG is ideal. It's more than big enough and still small enough so that you can work with it easily. Most manufacturers who build UCD based products appear to use 14 - 16 ga cable. The most common type is PVC jacketed and you can buy it from www.mouser.cam or www.digikey.com. I always buy North American made cable. Cable from the far east is not made as well generally. So read the labels and make sure it's made by someone reputable. Some people will tell you that PVC sounds bad. I'm not in that camp. But you can buy Teflon jacketed or other exotic cable if you choose. Try www.percyaudio.com for the exotic stuff.

2) Use the same 14AWG cable as everywhere else. Keep this connection very short. In fact keep all of your hookup wires very short.

3) Not a lame question at all. Just bolt the module to your chassis. Not much heatsinking is necessary for a 400.

You will want to read everything you can on the Hypex site regarding hook-up and grounding especially. There are also lots of good threads here on this site you can browse.

Good luck. It sounds like a fun project.

Graeme
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Old 19th January 2008, 03:38 AM   #3
croger is offline croger  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Thank alot Graeme,

these simple insights do help me alot. just to know what cable everyone uses helps me. I emailed a layout of all the amp components with the wiring to hypex support to make sure all my connections are correct. Luckily I had them right. Now I just need to wait for my 2 chassis to arrive on monday and get the wires and input and speaker connectors and i am good to go!

thanks
roger

Quote:
Originally posted by gl
Hi Roger,

In order:

1) 14AWG is ideal. It's more than big enough and still small enough so that you can work with it easily. Most manufacturers who build UCD based products appear to use 14 - 16 ga cable. The most common type is PVC jacketed and you can buy it from www.mouser.cam or www.digikey.com. I always buy North American made cable. Cable from the far east is not made as well generally. So read the labels and make sure it's made by someone reputable. Some people will tell you that PVC sounds bad. I'm not in that camp. But you can buy Teflon jacketed or other exotic cable if you choose. Try www.percyaudio.com for the exotic stuff.

2) Use the same 14AWG cable as everywhere else. Keep this connection very short. In fact keep all of your hookup wires very short.

3) Not a lame question at all. Just bolt the module to your chassis. Not much heatsinking is necessary for a 400.

You will want to read everything you can on the Hypex site regarding hook-up and grounding especially. There are also lots of good threads here on this site you can browse.

Good luck. It sounds like a fun project.

Graeme
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Old 19th January 2008, 06:20 AM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: south of the border
Hi (c)Roger,
we're in the same boat - i'm building UcD400HG amp too.
May I join to your thread to exchange some infos?
Cheers,
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Old 19th January 2008, 07:03 AM   #5
glt is offline glt  United States
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Join Date: Oct 2004
I used wires from a salvaged PC power supply and for the speaker and input connectors I used mulple strands of cat5 cable. Here are some photos of a UCD 180HG project

http://picasaweb.google.com/bugandan...ey=xDyo5wY0VJY
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Old 19th January 2008, 07:04 AM   #6
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Abu Dhabi
Hi Roger,

I'd like to offer a quick word of clarification / expansion on the excellent advice gl has already given you. Regarding heatsinking - I'd definitely advise bolting the UcD400HG heatsinks to the Aluminium [Correct English spelling ] front or rear panel of your chassis - actually any panel as long as it's Aluminium as steel is a pretty lousy conductor of heat.

I'm just about to build a UcD400HG based pair of monoblocks - I've got all the electronic bits now and I'm trying to decide what to do on the part which will be most difficult for me - the chassis!

May I ask what you guys are using for your chassis?

Cheers
Dave
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Old 19th January 2008, 02:44 PM   #7
croger is offline croger  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2008
yeah. I heard that steel is a bad heatsink. I am still undecided if I will spend the extra $100.00 US dollars to buy speacial heatsink assembly for each amp. they look cool as well. (from www.duycable.com) I am leaning to not and just bolt them to each aluminum front plate.
I got my two chassis from www.par-metal.com

you being in Dubai I am not sure where you should buy from.
here are other places I found.
http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/index_l2.php
and
http://www.atiresearch-anodized.com/products.html

I orderd from par-metal because they are in New Jersey, I am in NYC. so they are literally 10 miles from NYC. easy shipping.

It seems there are quite a few people building these 400 monoblocks!




Quote:
Originally posted by bearddavid
Hi Roger,

I'd like to offer a quick word of clarification / expansion on the excellent advice gl has already given you. Regarding heatsinking - I'd definitely advise bolting the UcD400HG heatsinks to the Aluminium [Correct English spelling ] front or rear panel of your chassis - actually any panel as long as it's Aluminium as steel is a pretty lousy conductor of heat.

I'm just about to build a UcD400HG based pair of monoblocks - I've got all the electronic bits now and I'm trying to decide what to do on the part which will be most difficult for me - the chassis!

May I ask what you guys are using for your chassis?

Cheers
Dave
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Old 19th January 2008, 02:44 PM   #8
croger is offline croger  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
ok... now i have to bug you with questions as i build my amps...

Quote:
Originally posted by glt
I used wires from a salvaged PC power supply and for the speaker and input connectors I used mulple strands of cat5 cable. Here are some photos of a UCD 180HG project

http://picasaweb.google.com/bugandan...ey=xDyo5wY0VJY
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Old 19th January 2008, 02:44 PM   #9
croger is offline croger  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
of course!

Quote:
Originally posted by ma_coule
Hi (c)Roger,
we're in the same boat - i'm building UcD400HG amp too.
May I join to your thread to exchange some infos?
Cheers,
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Old 19th January 2008, 04:40 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: south of the border
Wink Re: UcD400HG MonoBlocks project... help please

Quote:
Originally posted by croger

Can I mount the UcD400hg to the front aluminum face plate of the chassis for the heatsink? Or directly to the metal bottom?
Oh, yes ... you need answers too...
AFAIK, it's suggested to mount the module straight (with coil on the top!) on an Al part of chassis. Seems left and right side of chassis are most practical.

BTW, I prefer "skeleton" chassis, self made of 12x12 mm Al stick (not hard to me coz mechanical engineering is my profession). It's stable without cover and so very practical for amp tweaking. At the end you only close the whole construction with Al sheet cover pieces.
But... who knows which is the best for you?
Cheers,
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