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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi
I have AMP2, which is based on tk2350 chipset. The mosfet driver is the bigger chip that needs to be cooled. For this it has soldering slug under it. Since this is under chip you can't solder it with iron so you have one or two options. First one is to use heat transfer paste under chip and use heatsink on top of this chip, or second you have to solder that slug to pcb. Since second one is better for cooling is not the easiest one. But I went for this one anyway in hope that it was the right thing to do. For this you need soldering oven or hot plate or in my case standard electric oven. I first made test with some remaining pcb that wasn't useful for anything. I did what AMP2's pdf said. And this is what came out from all that. Day 1: To220 broken fet soldered to PCB ![]() So this thing is working in normal oven too, since it can heat up a lot more then you would need. I timed this to I get some figures, to see what to expect. After doing that it was time to go with the real thing and this is what came out this time ![]() ![]() After soldering chip and all bottom SMDs and some on top Day 2: All SMD components are solders + output diodes |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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well done! goodluck on your amp2.
I have mine driving my front speakers and they sound very very good.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi
Day3: Having problems with testing resistance between Vpp and Pgnd and Vnn... Found out that small piece of copper that came off one leg of fet when putting fets into pcb has shorted D and S of one fet. Holes are a bit too close together, so that fets would go in without little force. Now resistances are ~450k and ~660k, and 505 ohm for 5v which I think is ok Now I must test board
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Day3:
5v line with led in draws 28.4mA from 7805. LED turns off when supply voltage is around +/-36v So far everything is working as it should, so now I will place last components on PCB |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi
End of day3: All components but toroids have been mounted, toroids will be mounted tomorrow. It is starting too look like amp now, can't wait to hear the sound, will it be that I expact it to be? Only one way to find out... PS: with no fets and amp in mute current in Vpp rail was 0.25mA, so everything is working in this path too.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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Nice job luka
__________________
Brian |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi and thanks
Day4, finall day: Today toroids were first on the list... After winding them, I found out that this wires insulation wasn't coming off with lavacom (paint and wire insulation remover among other things), which meant making my own litz wire. I have some same wire size so this was great. With kit came wire with 15 stands, I used 18 so inductors should be better. This took me about 3-4 hours. Now the testing went great also. First I put supplys ON, check that there wasn't any shorts. After that I put amp into active mode, set offset of one channel to 0.01mV and other to 0.05mV, well below 10mV that I should . Next was signal, and speaker connections... and I was ready to play some music.Before this amp I was listening to LM3886, but when I played music with this amp I was Thank's to Tripath and 41Hz for this super amp... Some pic... ![]() ![]()
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I told you so....
it would be a waste of T-amp sound quality to just use it for your subs.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi
Yea I know, but it is hard to believe that it can be powerfull enough for subs and/or playing full range music... just great.... |
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