Sure Electronics Tripath boards?

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panomaniac said:


Yes indeed. Not a bad looking layout. And don't discount those surface mount inductors, some are very good in a small size.

The board reminds me of the Fenice.

Wonder who that guy was who won the bid? ;)



:no: :magnify: :deer: who that could be...

But there are more out there if ya wan em :D

I like the look of this board, I was gonna use some Kensingtons to complete my amp but they are now christmas pressies if these babies are OK.....:santa2:

Thanks for the heads up postalrat.....
 
I received mine. See pics for accessories provided. The speaker terminals are spade/banana. The power connector was a nice touch, 2.1mm (ID)/5.5mm (OD) type. A jack for hooking up your portable devices to the rca inputs. The onboard caps are 100uF/16V, 6.3mm diameter. Board dimensions: 6.6cmx9.8cmx18mm. If you took off the screw terminals you can save a bit on the height, maybe 16mm. C-C on the rcas: 3.5cm.

I hooked up a panasonic portable cd player, a pair of Klipsch KG-2 (4 ohm/90 efficiency) and a lead acid battery. Sounds pretty good and plays loud. Popped in Dire Straits Calling Elvis and results were very presentable, not all bass there, but still very nice.

Oh, and I'm getting 550mv or so at the speaker outputs, is this a problem?
 

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Thanks for all the info DreadPirate, nice that they provide all the accessories to help one get up and running. I imagine they could have dropped the price further if they ditched all of those cables though.

Mine will be arriving any day now. Makes me wish i bought two of them! Hopefully it's at least comparable to the T-amp, and from the looks of it, it probably is...
 
I'm posting a better resolution picture than is currently in the eBay listing. I actually have a higher resolution one, but size is limitation.

The speaker binding posts are 3 way, the thru hole for 20 gage wire (or worse).

Getting a bit of hiss...
 

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Received mine today and they look well made..But... The first thing you must do is remove C3 and C24, these are killing it's sound.....
The input caps are C13 and C21, they are 800nf and think should be OK with the small output inductors...
I'll have a bit more of a listen......
 
audio1st said:
Received mine today and they look well made..But... The first thing you must do is remove C3 and C24, these are killing it's sound.....
The input caps are C13 and C21, they are 800nf and think should be OK with the small output inductors...
I'll have a bit more of a listen......

Hmmm, still not got mine yet.....

Hi Barry, I guess all those resistors are the DC correction circuit?
What size output inductors do you reckon it's got?

I think I'm gonna have a go at an i-pod amp that is dc coupled via the bias cap and get rid of all the input section, even use higher grade input resistors...... If I have the ipod on battery and the amp on an SMPS it should be a neat little amp.

I think I'll put some nice big supply caps in there as well and maybe replace the diodes (I got a job lot when I started these amps and still have a bag left :D )
 
I received mine this morning.

On comparison to a stock Sonic Impact, it does not have the same Tripath 'magic', the sparkle and life in the higher frequencies is missing (though it does have more bass), it's dull by comparison, and gives considerably less output volume.

I tried it with 4 ohm floor-standers (AR-915s, which, astonishingly, sound incredible with the original S.I. T-Amp), and also with 8 ohm AR18s bookshelf speakers; it sounds better with the AR18s, (though not as good as a Charlize).

If this was my first exposure to the Tripath sound, I'd primarily be impressed by the value for money, the sound is smooth and easy with the 18's (though doubtless, those who know how to mod these things, could make considerable improvements).

Robert_S
 
On comparison to a stock Sonic Impact, it does not have the same Tripath 'magic', the sparkle and life in the higher frequencies is missing (though it does have more bass), it's dull by comparison, and gives considerably less output volume.
It sounds bad because of C3 & C24, they are 100nf caps across the supply and cause a passive volume control to act as a tone control..REMOVE C3 & C24..
Hi Barry, I guess all those resistors are the DC correction circuit?
Hello Lee, I don't know what all the 22k resistors are for yet, DC offset is about 500mv on both boards I've got..
 

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audio1st said:

It sounds bad because of C3 & C24, they are 100nf caps across the supply and cause a passive volume control to act as a tone control..REMOVE C3 & C24..

Hello Lee, I don't know what all the 22k resistors are for yet, DC offset is about 500mv on both boards I've got..


In your picture C24 looks still onboard.. am I wrong? :xeye:
 
Questions

After I fried my 1st T-Amp board with shoddy solder, this may be the prefect alternative to purchasing another T-amp.

The link to the "User's Manual" is broken on the auctions. Anyone have this?

Lostcause,

How can you compensate for not having a tank cap? I still have my 680uF Panasonic FM series cap from my 1st failed mod attempt. Can it be used on this board?
 
Had a bit of time to look a little closer at the board.
The DC offset cct IMO has all the wrong value resistors and seems of no help..I think 500mv is a bit high and probably more than it would be without the offset cct?
I think C3 and C24 should have been 100pf and not 100nf across the input..
The Mute and Sleep pins seem of no use and the fault pin is not connected to anything so I guess if a fault occurs no auto reset will happen..
All power inputs are via D1 to prevent incorrect polarity connection, so if you don't like the idea of a diode in the supply you will need to remove and short it's terminals..
I haven't looked at the output side, except that the inductors are 22uH..
But it does sound pretty good as is and I'm SURE could sound even better...;)
 
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