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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 1st December 2007, 10:15 AM   #81
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Hi,
I received my amp yesterday and have had some time to play with it. I used a 15v 4A laptop power supply for some low volume tests but I have ordered a 13.8v DC 12A Regulated Switching Power Supply
as well as a 12VDC 29A Regulated Switching Power Supply both from Sure Electronics.

I'm (spanking) new to amplifier building and was initially interested in this Amp due to its size and efficiency ( being cheap was certainly a bonus)

Some one asked the question earlier if this amp can be bridged. The answer that was the posted was

Quote:
It is already bridged, hence the single supply and two inductors per channel.

You might be able to parallel the channels for more current with low impedance loads.
Can all 4 outputs be connected to get say 200-300 watts @ 8R ?

What is the physical wiring required to achieve this?

I will be using this with 2 Carlsbro NlighN
NXT flat panel speakers and powering with other speakers with my big amp.

The amp and the power supply will be built into a 1U 19 inch rack.

Thanks
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Old 1st December 2007, 10:23 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by Class D Student
Hi,
Can all 4 outputs be connected to get say 200-300 watts @ 8R ?

What is the physical wiring required to achieve this?

Thanks
Yes you can, provided the gain of paralleled amps should be equal and also you need to insert 0.22 Ohms 5W resistors at the outputs of number of amps paralleled and then joined/sum the outputs together to get high current output, only if you want to drive low impedance 2-4 Ohms speakers!!
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Old 1st December 2007, 04:39 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by steely3
The Sure EUA2005 look like a potential portable headphone amp.
Any idea of what chip is on here? Does anyone think these will work at headphone impedances?
I read somewhere that class-d is a bad idea for headphones... but then I read that a class-d headphone amp is coming out soon over at headfi... go figure...
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Old 1st December 2007, 05:17 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by Workhorse


Yes you can, provided the gain of paralleled amps should be equal and also you need to insert 0.22 Ohms 5W resistors at the outputs of number of amps paralleled and then joined/sum the outputs together to get high current output, only if you want to drive low impedance 2-4 Ohms speakers!!
Just seen this...

So if I wanted to power a 4ohm sub, I could simply use two channels for twice the power? Would you use a resistor for both + and - speaker outs? Or is it wired in parallel? Does this change the impedance at all?

Also, am I right in thinking this amp is 2 ohm stable? It mentions 2 ohm on the e-bay page ("150W 4CH C 2"), but I want to be sure I don't kill the amp by running it at 2ohm (been there, done that, cheap crappy car amp thankfully)... I'm more than happy with 4ohm power tho, if it turns out to be 4 ohm stable....

EDIT: Class D student, I think you will get more power out of this amp running it at 24v instead of 12v... Don't quote me on that tho.
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Old 1st December 2007, 08:52 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeHunt79



EDIT: Class D student, I think you will get more power out of this amp running it at 24v instead of 12v... Don't quote me on that tho.
I think the amp runs on 12v anyway. Isn't that what the MBR1660 does (or is it just a diode). I assume the amp has a voltage rectifier (if that is the correct term). I believe the amp rating relative to the voltage is the most important factor here.

Thanks for your reply Workhorse, thats helpful.

What will happen if there is a difference (between ch 1 & 2 fro example) in line-in level if I am bridging them. Possible damage?
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Old 1st December 2007, 10:11 PM   #86
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Default Re: Audio1st

Quote:
Originally posted by h82missafire
audio1st, could you provide front, side and pack pics?
Thanks
It is just an old food warmer..
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Old 1st December 2007, 10:49 PM   #87
TWOJZ is offline TWOJZ  Australia
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anyone actually measured the power output of this amplifier?

does it have any easy way of bridging two channels?

and...

http://mysite.verizon.net/windup/p/s/2.jpg

is this the actual build quality? because that soldering looks gross, you'd think they would atleast clean up the flux residue.
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Old 1st December 2007, 10:49 PM   #88
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Default Re: Re: Audio1st

Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st

It is just an old food warmer..
I do have a non working toaster lying around..


Seriously, would you be so kind as to share your component list.
I am new (dumb ) to amp building and need my hand held.
Thanks
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Old 2nd December 2007, 08:02 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by TWOJZ
[B
http://mysite.verizon.net/windup/p/s/2.jpg

Is this the actual build quality? because that soldering looks gross, you'd think they would atleast clean up the flux residue. [/B]
My unit was much cleaner then that regarding both the soldering and flux residue. The robot making yours must have had a virus...

...or running windows...
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Old 3rd December 2007, 12:08 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by Workhorse
Yes you can, provided the gain of paralleled amps should be equal and also you need to insert 0.22 Ohms 5W resistors at the outputs of number of amps paralleled and then joined/sum the outputs together to get high current output, only if you want to drive low impedance 2-4 Ohms speakers!!
Quite a few people have asked about bridging... could someone confirm the wiring I've posted will work?
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