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Old 3rd August 2007, 09:16 AM   #11
mustik is offline mustik  Finland
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First, thank you all for your input. My first post about a problem that is quite trivial to you more advanced diyers produced soo many excellent replies already. I feel very welcome. Thank you!

So, at this point I will simply power my t-amps each with it's own Mascot linear-regulated 12V/3A PSUs and just split the left and right line signals.

About the bass mod, I saw a new thread here about t-amps with a new pcb layout. When I will re-case the amps and replace the cable connectors, I'll also find out what version of the board I got.
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Old 3rd August 2007, 10:50 AM   #12
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
I will simply power my t-amps each with it's own Mascot linear-regulated 12V/3A PSUs.
have you checked that the transient peak output current from the amp to the speaker can be met by this SMPS? 3A is very low unless peak current demand is met from some other component.
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Old 3rd August 2007, 11:44 AM   #13
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by gofar99
Greetings everyone, No where in the discussion do I see any crossovers.
gofar99
Hi,

That is because it will not work well. You cannot replace the speakers
internal crossover with an off the shelf electronic crossover with fixed
electrical slopes, you would need a bespoke electronic c/o that would
match / improve on the speakers internal passive crossover.

/sreten.
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Old 3rd August 2007, 11:55 AM   #14
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by sreten
You cannot replace the speakers
internal crossover with an off the shelf electronic crossover

This is very true! A lot of work and a bit of magic goes into making a good passive crossover. The specs may give you a nominal crossover frequency, but that is not the whole story. There is a lot going on in a good passive x-over. You might not be able to duplicate it in a simple active crossover.

Quote:
3A is very low unless peak current demand is met from some other component.
That's what big caps are for! In reality, the amp will draw about 300mA for music into 8 ohms. But peaks can draw much more. That's why you need the amperage. Good, fast caps can help supply the peak current.
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Old 3rd August 2007, 02:39 PM   #15
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally posted by panomaniac
That's what big caps are for! In reality, the amp will draw about 300mA for music into 8 ohms. But peaks can draw much more. That's why you need the amperage. Good, fast caps can help supply the peak current.
I agree.
What has Mustik planned?
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Old 3rd August 2007, 07:40 PM   #16
gofar99 is offline gofar99  United States
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Greetings again, My oversight, All my systems have external (or none at all) passive crossovers and I made the assumption that you would be driving the speakers directly. If you are using the internal passive crossovers then the use of an external electronic one is not the way to go.

Good listening
gofar99
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Old 4th August 2007, 08:21 AM   #17
mustik is offline mustik  Finland
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndrewT
What has Mustik planned?
I have a new revision D board. According to this thread it should be easy to mod. However, for me it's impossible for me to follow the provided instructions, so I will have to wait until there are pictures available.
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Old 5th August 2007, 10:57 AM   #18
mustik is offline mustik  Finland
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Hi

I got my other Mascot psu back from a friend yesterday and just did the bi-amp trick few minutes ago. I set up the test system like this: PC line-out (integrated nVidia nForce) -> Y-splitter -> t-amps. I set the amps to full volume and used the master volume on pc to control volume of both amps.

The mids still sound a bit harsh to my ears, but since everything from proper input/output connectors to input cap mod to having better quality equipment signal to "burn-in" is yet to be done, I think it will get a lot better.
One thing I noticed (If I did not imagine) after moving to two amps feeding them with separate 12V/3A psus was that bass seems to come out better.
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