My Charlize (with pics)

raver · 20th July 2007, 04:59 PM

My first nearly-diy project is finally complete.
I added a 3-position rotatory switch (Off-SoftStart-On), a green led and an Alps blue pot for volume.
I used a transparent adhesive film to make the faceplate layout with all letterings (laser printed).
Sorry for the ugly switch knob, it was the only one at hand, but I will replace it soon with another like the volume knob (maybe a little smaller, but of the same shape).
It sounds really wonderful (and I am a tube lover!)

Pano · 20th July 2007, 07:43 PM

Nice work - looks great!!

gvr4ever · 29th July 2007, 08:36 PM

Looks great, but if I were going to go through all that trouble, I would have put "11" in place of "10" on the volume.

john65b · 30th July 2007, 12:05 AM

Quote:

I would have put "11" in place of "10" on the volume.

Volume a la Spinal Tap...yes that would have been a nice touch...

Nice enclosure...I like the thick front plate...any more info on it?

Are they from HiFi2000.com? They NEVER respond to my email request for quotes....non va bene.

Gratzie....

ark · 30th July 2007, 12:10 AM

That looks terrific!
What are you using for a power supply?

raver · 31st July 2007, 07:55 AM

john65b-
yes, it's from HiFi2000, but I bought it from www.audiokit.it
They distribute them (at the same prices) and are very friendly.
They should also ship overseas, and have an english homepage here:

http://www.audiokit.it/ENG/Frames/Introduction1.htm

ark-
I am using an old Philips stabilized power supply, 12VDC 2.5A.
Maybe I will try also a 12V 7A Sealed Acid Battery in the future.

atleer · 1st August 2007, 07:12 PM

Very nice!

I'm just starting to assemble my ideas and plans, this one looks nice.

zacster · 2nd August 2007, 01:22 AM

Nice. I'll have to post pics of my Charlize when I get my camera back. I built mine into a small wood box.

gychang · 26th August 2007, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by raver
I added a 3-position rotatory switch (Off-SoftStart-On), a green led and an Alps blue pot for volume.
I used a transparent adhesive film to make the faceplate layout with all letterings (laser printed).
Sorry for the ugly switch knob, it was the only one at hand, but I will replace it soon with another like the volume knob (maybe a little smaller, but of the same shape).
It sounds really wonderful (and I am a tube lover!)

Looks very nice, does the 3 position switch come with the kit? if not where did u get it?

where did u get the transparent adhesive film?, does the letter get stuck to the aluminum?, (any web page?)

Your lettering on the case makes it look very professional and am considering getting Charlize, but heard about the pop with the switch.

gychang

raver · 26th August 2007, 07:27 AM

gychang-
no, the 3-position switch doesn't come with the kit, you can find it where they sell electronic parts (probably also RadioShack or online).
I bought the transparent adhesive film in a office shop (where they make photocopies, prints, etc.). Then you print on the transparent film with a common laser printer (as you would do with a paper sheet), cut the part you need (same size of the amp's faceplate), remove the paper and put the transparent film with lettering on the faceplate. Cut the holes where knobs and screws should go and you're done. So all the faceplate is covered with the film, not only the letterings are transferred. The film stuck rather well to the aluminium.
Not a difficult job, only some patience and precision needed.

20th July 2007, 04:59 PM	#1
raver diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Italy	My Charlize (with pics) My first nearly-diy project is finally complete. I added a 3-position rotatory switch (Off-SoftStart-On), a green led and an Alps blue pot for volume. I used a transparent adhesive film to make the faceplate layout with all letterings (laser printed). Sorry for the ugly switch knob, it was the only one at hand, but I will replace it soon with another like the volume knob (maybe a little smaller, but of the same shape). It sounds really wonderful (and I am a tube lover!)

20th July 2007, 07:43 PM	#2
Pano diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: North Carolina Blog Entries: 4	Nice work - looks great!! __________________ Take the Speaker Voltage Test!

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29th July 2007, 08:36 PM	#3
gvr4ever diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN	Looks great, but if I were going to go through all that trouble, I would have put "11" in place of "10" on the volume.

30th July 2007, 12:10 AM	#5
ark diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcata, CA	That looks terrific! What are you using for a power supply?

31st July 2007, 07:55 AM	#6
raver diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Italy	john65b- yes, it's from HiFi2000, but I bought it from www.audiokit.it They distribute them (at the same prices) and are very friendly. They should also ship overseas, and have an english homepage here: http://www.audiokit.it/ENG/Frames/Introduction1.htm ark- I am using an old Philips stabilized power supply, 12VDC 2.5A. Maybe I will try also a 12V 7A Sealed Acid Battery in the future.

1st August 2007, 07:12 PM	#7
atleer diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2007	Very nice! I'm just starting to assemble my ideas and plans, this one looks nice.

2nd August 2007, 01:22 AM	#8
zacster diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: NYC	Nice. I'll have to post pics of my Charlize when I get my camera back. I built mine into a small wood box.

26th August 2007, 07:27 AM	#10
raver diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Italy	gychang- no, the 3-position switch doesn't come with the kit, you can find it where they sell electronic parts (probably also RadioShack or online). I bought the transparent adhesive film in a office shop (where they make photocopies, prints, etc.). Then you print on the transparent film with a common laser printer (as you would do with a paper sheet), cut the part you need (same size of the amp's faceplate), remove the paper and put the transparent film with lettering on the faceplate. Cut the holes where knobs and screws should go and you're done. So all the faceplate is covered with the film, not only the letterings are transferred. The film stuck rather well to the aluminium. Not a difficult job, only some patience and precision needed.

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