hi guys
i´m about to wire my boominator atm, just wondering if this is the filter to go with?
http://http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/class-d/343318d1366289586-boominator-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-boomfilter.jpg
i have HP10W, 407n and amp6. Maybe upgrade filter+amp later but now i have to get this machine going first
Cheers
Yep, that's the filter I have used, sounds great....
BJ
Hey
I'm beginning a build of a boominator like musikbox, and i was looking at the design for the original boominator, and i have some questions i hope you guys can answer.
The first question; what is the best length between the front and back speaker? (should the speakers touch each other or should there be a space between)
Second question; should the musikbox depth be decreased if the speakers i'll use have a shorter depth than the speakers from the original boominator?
Third guestion; how should the front and back speakers be positioned? (parallel or in different heights)
From Alexander (build beginner)
I'm beginning a build of a boominator like musikbox, and i was looking at the design for the original boominator, and i have some questions i hope you guys can answer.
The first question; what is the best length between the front and back speaker? (should the speakers touch each other or should there be a space between)
Second question; should the musikbox depth be decreased if the speakers i'll use have a shorter depth than the speakers from the original boominator?
Third guestion; how should the front and back speakers be positioned? (parallel or in different heights)
From Alexander (build beginner)
Hi
You can only use the speakers specified in this thread, otherwise what you are building is NOT a boominator, it may look like one but will not sound or perform like one. You cannot change the dimensions of the speaker boxes, only the middle compartment. The design of the boominator is specific to the speakers, any change will result in poor sound quality.... Follow this thread, use the correct speakers and stick to the original boominator design and you'll end up with a fantastic sound system. Any change and who knows what it will sound like.....
Just because it looks like a boominator, doesn't mean it is one.....
BJ
Ps, just routed my solar panels onto the lid, not too bad, nothing a little filler won't fix....
BJ
You can make a box to fit, but it won't be 'tuned' like a boominator so it won't sound like one, the boominator design is only for the specified speakers.
There is software to help you design a box for your speakers parameters but you'll be starting from scratch....
BJ
Hi
It's been while since I was active on this thread.
I found the P. audio HP 10W on a dutch site called " lwa productions " delivery fee is 15€ and THE price of one speaker is 36€ From 10 pieces 5% reduction I hope it's still the same price since the email that recieved is almost a year old.
I found also à shop near Antwerp for THE P. audio HP 12T I ordered them for building the Q binator but they never could be delivered
I'm gonna build à boominator This summer I already got the amp from Arjen helder.Cya
Nice, im finished with the box etc now, just have to buy compoents for the filter.
Found coils, resistors AND caps with right values in my home
just to be sure, the cap says max dc voltage 40V (mkt), is that safe to use? The cap is really tiny imo This is just for testing, so tempted to play with it!
Need help connecting 2x SP60-4 and 2x ND16FA-6 to amp6-basic...
Are they connected the right way?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rv6ct3xjshe5dx5/boombox_filter.png
Thanks!
Are they connected the right way?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rv6ct3xjshe5dx5/boombox_filter.png
Thanks!
Central Brace - Magnets
Folks,
Simple question, noob here, I have read a lot in the couple last 2 or 3 days...., so after reading, viewing the Sketchup and several photos, I really need to clarify if the magnets are glue together (making a hole in the central brace) or each one glued to the central brace as a sandwich.
A picture is better so please let me know which is the one A or B
Folks,
Simple question, noob here, I have read a lot in the couple last 2 or 3 days...., so after reading, viewing the Sketchup and several photos, I really need to clarify if the magnets are glue together (making a hole in the central brace) or each one glued to the central brace as a sandwich.
A picture is better so please let me know which is the one A or B
Half Boominator
If I go the half boominator way, I saw an schematics that shoulds an stereo setup but at the same time, I read from saturnus the having L and R in the same chamber could create undesirable effects when the bass is not exactly sync in both channels.
Would it be better to mix down the channels before entering in the AMP.
How will be the diagram, I read somewhere that I need to put some resistors in the input channels before summing them up, something like
L-----wwww------\_______________+
R-----wwww------/
Thanks
If I go the half boominator way, I saw an schematics that shoulds an stereo setup but at the same time, I read from saturnus the having L and R in the same chamber could create undesirable effects when the bass is not exactly sync in both channels.
Would it be better to mix down the channels before entering in the AMP.
How will be the diagram, I read somewhere that I need to put some resistors in the input channels before summing them up, something like
L-----wwww------\_______________+
R-----wwww------/
Thanks
I have a couple of questions on mine as I make a little progress...
First off, I have the amp6 Basic assembled and seems to be working. Except it's cutting out after about 30% volume when I wire in the GW-1058's. With some small car speakers I have, it goes much louder. What would be the reason for this? I should probably figure it out before I try to put it in a box. (edit: I'm working on this... turns out my original power source was pushing just over 9v so that was most of the problem. Still cuts out, but now at around 70% volume)
Second, I would like to design my box so that the GW-1058's touch each other on the magnet end like the original design. When I re-dimension everything, what else is important other than keeping the internal volume of the speaker box the same? Is this something I can mess with or am I playing with trouble?
Any advice would be helpful...
First off, I have the amp6 Basic assembled and seems to be working. Except it's cutting out after about 30% volume when I wire in the GW-1058's. With some small car speakers I have, it goes much louder. What would be the reason for this? I should probably figure it out before I try to put it in a box. (edit: I'm working on this... turns out my original power source was pushing just over 9v so that was most of the problem. Still cuts out, but now at around 70% volume)
Second, I would like to design my box so that the GW-1058's touch each other on the magnet end like the original design. When I re-dimension everything, what else is important other than keeping the internal volume of the speaker box the same? Is this something I can mess with or am I playing with trouble?
Any advice would be helpful...
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When input and amp are maxed it should preferably distort around 90% to ensure you get the maximum performance possible from the amplifier. Try going with a PSU giving 13-14 v. That would probably make you go a little louder.
Easiest way to do it would probably to slice a ring off a PVC tube like this:
You can get those from a hardware stor, then drill some holes in it. Glue one between each woofer and center-bracer. Did that with another boominator-like build
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, it's mostly an aesthetic choice but also because my camp is "morons" when it comes to electronics (no pun intended, should any of them discover this thread).
This is the diyAudio forum, of course people are going overboard with stuff for their audio equipment
But I really like the simplicity of it and having a fool-proof connection.
Anything special you would like to see?
Did you hide the step-up converter under the amp/miniDSP or is it not in? Nice build
I haven't installed any Step-Up converter (yet, but I have a Step Down converter to get 5V and 3.3V, which I am going to use for the USB Neutrik connector next to the Jack, and powering an AirPort Express for AirPlay), for now I use that switch to wire the batteries either in 12V (parallel) or 24V (series). The MiniDSP will run on anything from 4.5V to 24V no problem.
Nice
I would not run the minidsp on series batteries though, as those go above 24v when charged. But you probably know that (just thought I'd point it out to everyone)
I would not run the minidsp on series batteries though, as those go above 24v when charged. But you probably know that (just thought I'd point it out to everyone)
Nice
I would not run the minidsp on series batteries though, as those go above 24v when charged. But you probably know that (just thought I'd point it out to everyone)
Yeah, I had it running with my little LiPo battery at Roskilde Festival
That sounds pretty cool. Do tell more
- do you just power the AirPort express directly from the 3.3V source? Which AirPort Express do you use, and how much power does it use? (i.e. is it Roskilde-battery-friendly?)I love all of those connectors - i'm quite the Neutrik fan myself
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