The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

Hi

Taking into account of discussions before, suggestions from Saturnus and others submissions of diagrams, here is an updated diagram that may help other boominator builders who refuse to pay to extortionate shipping costs of the piezo tweeters from USA....

Sadly, checking back the filter posted earlier is for use with Eminence Basslite S2010.

Here is the correct filter for use with the HP10W.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...er-stab-ultimate-party-machine-boomfilter.jpg
 
I thought that the tweeters were supposed to be wired out of phase? ( I don't know why?)
BJ

This is a 1st order filter so it's in phase. A 2nd order filter would be out of phase.

The reason the 2 filters are vastly different is that the S2010 doesn't go as far up as the HP10W and have very problematic frequency response over 1Khz. The filter makes up for that and cuts quite low.

The HP10W (or GW1058) in itself forms at very good and natural sounding filter with an x-o at about 4Khz. We then don't have to filter the tweeter as hard and we can use the lower filter slope to linearize the response of the tweeter.

The same advice about the resistors though. Try which is best for you.
 
Just want to mention I finally got mine together....and the speakers I chose are bomb! Not very harsh at all, and I have not even connected by 3.5khz low pass filters yet - I may not!

They are really sensitive. 1/4 volume right now on the TA2020 and like half on my Nexus 7 and it is plenty loud....and I am only using a small 12v 1A wall adapter for an external hard drive to test it out!!

Anyone interested, you can get the woofers here in N/A for $19 a piece. Helluva deal IMO.
 
Master Wiring Diagrams with 407N, S2010 Amp6B

Since the filter for the signature version consisting of the p.audio HP-10 and S2010 but using the amp6b, I decided to upload the corrected pdf. If any of you veteran Boominator builders want to check this over, please do, as I was creating this for myself so I don't make a many mistakes as I need to, or bother the good folks here. Any constructive comments and corrections are highly encouraged!!!
 

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I still can't get over how LOUD 15 watts is. I run 140w a DRIVER in my car, which can get loud, howeven taking into effect the efficiency of the drivers I chose (~95db) I guess it makes sense. As I said before, at 1/4 volume on the TA it is a VERY comfortable listening volume. Half volume is annoying.
 
It's an efficient little beast :D

Have you ever had a problem with the high's being a little recessed? Do the piezos maybe need to be broken in? I am thinking maybe they (piezo's) are a little less efficient than I thought, or the woofers are more sensitive than I calculated. I did use a 47ohm resistor for each piezo as you mentioned.

I have a calibrated mic that is 0.5db 20hz-20khz maybe I should use Room EQ and sine sweep for response.
 
Have you ever had a problem with the high's being a little recessed?

You can try with a small resistor if you like but frankly I prefer it with a little lower highs. A smaller resistor won't give much extra output though. Just a little bit but it'll also make it more annoying when listening to acoustic or vocal music. A smaller resistor works best if you play mainly electronic music.
 
You can try with a small resistor if you like but frankly I prefer it with a little lower highs. A smaller resistor won't give much extra output though. Just a little bit but it'll also make it more annoying when listening to acoustic or vocal music. A smaller resistor works best if you play mainly electronic music.

I am playing Norah Jones now and it sounds perfect. Good call, sibiliance isn't bad.
 
I have a calibrated mic that is 0.5db 20hz-20khz maybe I should use Room EQ and sine sweep for response.

If it's measured indoors a frequency plot isn't pretty. Much better linearity when outdoors as intended. That's not to say that it flat by any hi-fi definition but it sounds remarkably well regardless. Then again, my Fostex FE206e which were used as reference in the design aren't flat either.

It's intended to to have really good bass performance (except for the really low bass which is missing completely although you most of the time forget that), and sound very natural on voices in particular and in the midrange in general. I am especially proud of the way it handles brass instruments and female voices which are notoriously difficult for a speaker to get right.
 
If it's measured indoors a frequency plot isn't pretty. Much better linearity when outdoors as intended. That's not to say that it flat by any hi-fi definition but it sounds remarkably well regardless. Then again, my Fostex FE206e which were used as reference in the design aren't flat either.

It's intended to to have really good bass performance (except for the really low bass which is missing completely although you most of the time forget that), and sound very natural on voices in particular and in the midrange in general. I am especially proud of the way it handles brass instruments and female voices which are notoriously difficult for a speaker to get right.

Yeah I was just surprised since I used different drivers. Here is the PDF plot of the FR from the manufacturer.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/ProductData/Spec Sheets/55-2961.pdf

As I said, I am considering not even using the inductors I bought, it seems to roll off rather smoothly and sounds fine.