I was unable to fit the tweeters in at the same level as I widened the center to fit bigger batteries that I will not end up using anyway lol.
Even so, I was unaware that it would cause a dip in freq at that range or in any range
But I have seen some weird boominators that are not even close to the original design. And as we are all individuals and interpret everything based on instinct OR experience/ learning, overall I'm happy with how I am proceeding albeit pretty slowly
The top of my boomer s removable (in my build thread) so I do have full access to all components.
Making and fitting the brushed stainless plates for the front/rear panels tomorrow
Even so, I was unaware that it would cause a dip in freq at that range or in any range
But I have seen some weird boominators that are not even close to the original design. And as we are all individuals and interpret everything based on instinct OR experience/ learning, overall I'm happy with how I am proceeding albeit pretty slowly
The top of my boomer s removable (in my build thread) so I do have full access to all components.
Making and fitting the brushed stainless plates for the front/rear panels tomorrow
Stevodude - nice looking Boominator.
1 thing I want to mention, maybe your electrical diagram was not drawn the way it's actually being hooked up... but the batteries (-) terminal is connected to the amp's and the LED's (+) terminal, something is not right. You may want to reconsider the connections (or the diagram) before actually hooking things up.
1 thing I want to mention, maybe your electrical diagram was not drawn the way it's actually being hooked up... but the batteries (-) terminal is connected to the amp's and the LED's (+) terminal, something is not right. You may want to reconsider the connections (or the diagram) before actually hooking things up.
Well I originally intended to build a stereo with just two tens, but after reading about bafflestep I have ended up modifying my plans to end up being essentially a boominator clone, so I will post the pics here. I am still in the midst of building it. If anyone could tell me where they got their corner guards I would be infinitely grateful. One of the corners of my box already got damaged and it needs to be covered because I sanded it away and it looks fairly noticeable in the pictures.
Parts:
(4) MCM 99-2961 10" Woofers (~96dB, 100-4khz or so)
(2) MCM Piezo's
(1) UB12220 22aH 12v SLA
(1) Genasun 5A MPPT Charger (mmmmm I am so pumped to use this....it will end up being around 15-40% more efficient than the rest of the builds where people haven't used one)
(4) 5W Monocrystalline PET laminated panels
(1)TA2020 Chip Amp
I changed the dimensions significantly to adapt to the woofers I am using to continue to allow magnet to magnet mounting. I am also not using a center compartment, I am going to allow the speakers to share the entire chamber. I am going to brace significantly though in many areas after everything is installed.
Sanded all the edges, as the cuts were significantly off.
No I didn't jigsaw, I used a router for the cutouts
I gotta fill the holes and then use some filler to smooth everything, but so far it looks pretty good IMO. We will have to see how it sounds since it is using a very different speakers.
Parts:
(4) MCM 99-2961 10" Woofers (~96dB, 100-4khz or so)
(2) MCM Piezo's
(1) UB12220 22aH 12v SLA
(1) Genasun 5A MPPT Charger (mmmmm I am so pumped to use this....it will end up being around 15-40% more efficient than the rest of the builds where people haven't used one)
(4) 5W Monocrystalline PET laminated panels
(1)TA2020 Chip Amp
I changed the dimensions significantly to adapt to the woofers I am using to continue to allow magnet to magnet mounting. I am also not using a center compartment, I am going to allow the speakers to share the entire chamber. I am going to brace significantly though in many areas after everything is installed.
Sanded all the edges, as the cuts were significantly off.
No I didn't jigsaw,
I used a router for the cutouts
I gotta fill the holes and then use some filler to smooth everything, but so far it looks pretty good IMO. We will have to see how it sounds since it is using a very different speakers.
I read up on cancellation and the sort. Since I have a removeable top panel, if it sounds terrible I can always put in a center divider, however it doesn't seem like it is going to be an issue. If the drivers were out of phase then yeah, that would be bad.
First of all I'd like to thank all the people who've been contributing to the boominator phenomena, I've been digging through all the information regarding the project, and learned quite a lot about the compromises of building a portable sound system. It has been very interesting and my own project is very well underway, however I seem to encounter a lot of deal breakers, where a new functionality I consider implementing completely change the design - Guess that's the first lesson in DIY Audio
I haven't made up my mind about wether it should be 12v or 24v, I thought I had settled on the muse m20 at 12v, but it appears that people are building bigger and bigger, so perhaps it should be amp9 at 24v after all. It's very difficult for me to decide as I unfortunately haven't heard a 12v boominator yet..
I have 2 li-ion 18000maH, and 2 10W amorphous solar panels, so power shouldn't be a problem, but weight is.
Will it be worthwhile to use 4 hp10W at 24 volts, and then a mini dsp with P.Audio PHT-407N for a noticeable gain? I'm an amateur audiophile, so I'd appreciate good sound.
I know it has been asked many times, but I've been unable to find the answer in the various forums. How would you make a switch for 12v to 24v? simply between the batteries, for single/serial connection, wouldn't this result in uneven battery depletion?
I read about Saturnus mentioning a ta2020 amp with build in bluetooth, which is a fantastic idea, however I haven't been able to find a simple module suitable for integration in a portable setup. is this even possible with an amp9?
Thanks again, summer is approaching and this time I'll be prepared!
I haven't made up my mind about wether it should be 12v or 24v, I thought I had settled on the muse m20 at 12v, but it appears that people are building bigger and bigger, so perhaps it should be amp9 at 24v after all. It's very difficult for me to decide as I unfortunately haven't heard a 12v boominator yet..
I have 2 li-ion 18000maH, and 2 10W amorphous solar panels, so power shouldn't be a problem, but weight is.
Will it be worthwhile to use 4 hp10W at 24 volts, and then a mini dsp with P.Audio PHT-407N for a noticeable gain? I'm an amateur audiophile, so I'd appreciate good sound.
I know it has been asked many times, but I've been unable to find the answer in the various forums. How would you make a switch for 12v to 24v? simply between the batteries, for single/serial connection, wouldn't this result in uneven battery depletion?
I read about Saturnus mentioning a ta2020 amp with build in bluetooth, which is a fantastic idea, however I haven't been able to find a simple module suitable for integration in a portable setup. is this even possible with an amp9?
Thanks again, summer is approaching and this time I'll be prepared!
Piezo Source coupon code?
After reading these posts
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-61.html#post3094789
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-61.html#post3093809
I tried to email, call, and PM them for a coupon code but have gotten no response. I need to offset the cost of this project as much as I can. Will someone who has done business with Piezo Source PM me a discount code please?
After reading these posts
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-61.html#post3094789
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-61.html#post3093809
I tried to email, call, and PM them for a coupon code but have gotten no response. I need to offset the cost of this project as much as I can. Will someone who has done business with Piezo Source PM me a discount code please?
I have proceeded to glue the front/back baffles in.
I still have some wiring to sort out. Mount Batteries and Amp in the space, route the edges, and a final 3 or 4 coats of clear, some corners and 1 Boominator ready for a PARTY!
Looks great. About the routing, aren't you worried about seam weaknesses from thinning the wood on the corners? What bit are you planning to use?
Looking good stevodude, I like your circular, brushed aluminium control plate idea and I think that I would like to do something similar for mine.
However, I want solar charging with backup 12v charging input, I like your led battery indcator but I would prefer to add an old school, round VU meter. I remember Saturnus considering that for one of his projects, any details would be most appreciated because the electronics side of building a boominator is my weakest area....
Good news today tho.... I received my HP10W's from Intertechnik in Germany......
Very good service, I ordered them online only 6 days ago, paid by PAYPAL and they arrived today..... I couldn't ask for more....
I hope my order for the piezo tweeters from the USA goes as smoothly........
Now to do some more cutting, routing and glueing......
next purchase will be piezos and AMP6 when I can afford it.......
Looking forward to stevodudes report on how his beast sounds (although I have a feeling that you may have vibration problems with your "loose" boominator top).....
BJ
However, I want solar charging with backup 12v charging input, I like your led battery indcator but I would prefer to add an old school, round VU meter. I remember Saturnus considering that for one of his projects, any details would be most appreciated because the electronics side of building a boominator is my weakest area....
Good news today tho.... I received my HP10W's from Intertechnik in Germany......
Very good service, I ordered them online only 6 days ago, paid by PAYPAL and they arrived today..... I couldn't ask for more....
I hope my order for the piezo tweeters from the USA goes as smoothly........
Now to do some more cutting, routing and glueing......
next purchase will be piezos and AMP6 when I can afford it.......
Looking forward to stevodudes report on how his beast sounds (although I have a feeling that you may have vibration problems with your "loose" boominator top).....
BJ
Wow.......
Just researching the costs of the Piezo Source KSN1001A....... the shipping alone to the UK is going to cost $150... WTF.....
Total costs with 4 tweeters and shipping is looking like around £130.... that is a lot of money for four piezo's..... anybody got any better suggestions? that shipping is outrageous.......
BJ
Just researching the costs of the Piezo Source KSN1001A....... the shipping alone to the UK is going to cost $150... WTF.....
Total costs with 4 tweeters and shipping is looking like around £130.... that is a lot of money for four piezo's..... anybody got any better suggestions? that shipping is outrageous.......
BJ
Yeah. It's outrageous. And import duties are probably on top of that as well.
Not much that can be done. They are the ones who make the original, and they can charge whatever they like (as does it seems).
You can just decide you're not going to pay it and settle for a reasonable quality replica like the Monacor MPT-001. Or you can go with a regular driver like the p.audio PHT407N and use a regular crossover (posted elsewhere). That'll be £80 from bluearan plus parts for the crossover.
Not much that can be done. They are the ones who make the original, and they can charge whatever they like (as does it seems).
You can just decide you're not going to pay it and settle for a reasonable quality replica like the Monacor MPT-001. Or you can go with a regular driver like the p.audio PHT407N and use a regular crossover (posted elsewhere). That'll be £80 from bluearan plus parts for the crossover.
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Thanks Saturnus.... I'd rather not compromise the top end.... I'd prefer to go with the PHT407N than the monocore.... As I say, the electronics side is not my strong point. Isn't there an impedance issue with the AMP6b using regular compression drivers? I'm not to worried about wiring in crossovers as long as I don't have to actually design them (beyond my current capability) but my understanding is that regular drivers would take the impedance down from 4ohms to 2ohms?
BJ
BJ
The PHT407Ns are the ultimate in sound quality that you can get for what I think is reasonable to spend for drivers for this purpose.
Your understanding is wrong. The whole purpose of a crossover is to split the frequencies up in separate parts so the amplifier only sees the same impedance.
So I can use PHT407N's and as long as I add a suitable crossover, the impedance of the hp10's plus the PHT407N's will still be 4ohms and ok for the AMP6b? I'd better start trawling this forum again for suggested crossover designs....
BTW Saturnus, I probably speak for many but thanks for the ongoing support...
BJ
BTW Saturnus, I probably speak for many but thanks for the ongoing support...
BJ
Hello there, I am just about ready to start building a Halfinator, with a design I blatantly stole from one of the pictures on the facebook fan page.
But before building, I just wanted to ask if the design in any way conflicts with the original idea, especially regarding the bass reflex port which is 10mm. I picked this design because i thought i looked amazing, but now I'm wondering whether it is too big?
Wouldn't want my hunt for good looks to conflict with the actual performance of the thing.
- Thank you in advance
But before building, I just wanted to ask if the design in any way conflicts with the original idea, especially regarding the bass reflex port which is 10mm. I picked this design because i thought i looked amazing, but now I'm wondering whether it is too big?
Wouldn't want my hunt for good looks to conflict with the actual performance of the thing.
- Thank you in advance
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
@mrtmnrsmssn
2 reflexports may be symmetrical, but is not the way to do it, there's one in each chamber of the original. If you go through the thread, saturnus strongly recommend to use the original handle/port design. I've seen people use plastic ports, and I think the diameter was 78mm don't know about the length.
If you want to use the PHT407n Saturnus recommends using a miniDSP with an amp9b. As far as i know (and please correct me if I'm wrong) it's due to the amp9 being 4 channels, which is then controlled by the minidsp. the impedance at 4 ohm has nothing to do with crossover, but is the result of paralleling the speakers in pairs on each channel.
I'll try to make a diagram, as I've been unable to find any, eventhough the tweeter + hp10w design is a rather common idea, to get it confirmed.
Have I understood it correctly if I adjust the minidsp to:
- cut off frequencies below 100hz (as it's a waste of power outside)
- give the tweeter channels -3db to fit the output of the hp10w at 96db
- make the crossover at 2250hz
I am going through the thread a third time, and I still feel like I have a lot to learn
2 reflexports may be symmetrical, but is not the way to do it, there's one in each chamber of the original. If you go through the thread, saturnus strongly recommend to use the original handle/port design. I've seen people use plastic ports, and I think the diameter was 78mm don't know about the length.
If you want to use the PHT407n Saturnus recommends using a miniDSP with an amp9b. As far as i know (and please correct me if I'm wrong) it's due to the amp9 being 4 channels, which is then controlled by the minidsp. the impedance at 4 ohm has nothing to do with crossover, but is the result of paralleling the speakers in pairs on each channel.
I'll try to make a diagram, as I've been unable to find any, eventhough the tweeter + hp10w design is a rather common idea, to get it confirmed.
Have I understood it correctly if I adjust the minidsp to:
- cut off frequencies below 100hz (as it's a waste of power outside)
- give the tweeter channels -3db to fit the output of the hp10w at 96db
- make the crossover at 2250hz
I am going through the thread a third time, and I still feel like I have a lot to learn