I think you may have inadvertently wired one of the piezos in series with one of the HP10Ws instead of parallel to it.
planning my build
Hello, read entire thread and planning to build the original boominator.
I have ordered the amp6b, but cant quite pull the trigger on the drivers.
I want to use the HP-10Ws but having trouble sourcing them in the US (west coast). Are there any known vendors that deliver here? I have looked.
Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?
Hello, read entire thread and planning to build the original boominator.
I have ordered the amp6b, but cant quite pull the trigger on the drivers.
I want to use the HP-10Ws but having trouble sourcing them in the US (west coast). Are there any known vendors that deliver here? I have looked.
Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?
Not sure if this has been asked, or even needs an answer.
The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?
Cheers, stevodude.
The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?
Cheers, stevodude.
Unfortunately the test run of bubble horn tweeters was a dud. We'll try again probably with another manufacturer, or another basic horn design I've been contemplating. But for now. The bubble horn piezos will not be available any time soon.
Getting the HP10Ws available in the US does not seem like something that will happen in the foreseeable future until a retailer finds out there's actually money to be made. Note that some private entrepreneurs here in Denmark have started importing them directly from the factory themselves in order to sell complete Boominator packages with drivers, amp, and everything else you need except wood, glue, screws, tools and batteries. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the US either for someone with a little cash lying around and willing to take the risk.
Don't get me wrong. The Goldwood GW-1058 is actually a gem at it's price. It's just that the p.audio HP10W is also a gem at it's price. They are very similar in almost every aspect, it's just that the HP10Ws are a little bit better at everything.
Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W.
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OK well I will be ordering Goldwoods then since they are the only type available here. They are cheaper anyway and I dont believe they will sound vastly inferior, if at all inferior to the ears of my non-audiophile friends hehe.
How many drivers/amps would I need to import for the factory to ship overseas? Idea of cost?
And for the sake of convenience can you please let me know the most ideal tweeter model available in the US?
Thanks for that Saturnus, and for being so patient with everyone's questions
But, it still doesn't answer my question
When the magnets are butted up to the brace, should I drill a small hole (it is propably about a 12mm drill bit) where the magnet hole is, or leave it solid.
You can see my brace in the attached image and that it has no hole where the center of the magnet sits.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I didn't answer this specifically because it doesn't matter one way or the other.
Thumbsup, cheers for that.
I have next week off, as the wife is away, so it's children And boominator week yah.
Sent from my XT925 using Tapatalk 2
ONE MORE QUESTION
Thank for this forum everyone been learning a lot. So I am ordering GW-1058s because HP-10Ws are nowhere to be found in the US.
AMP6 on the way.
But Tweeters..
According to Saturnus, its much better to have an original KSM1001A than a replica. One of the suppliers of the original he recommended was adelcom ( CTS / Motorola KSN-1001 Recessed Mount Piezo Electric Super Horn Tweeter</font> ) I emailed them after having trouble ordering and recieved a reply saying they were hacked and doing orders manually, but also their stock of that model was new unlabeled tweeters from the factory that bought CTS's rights to produce.. This is on their website:
"As everyone knows, CTS ceased manufacturing their piezo electric tweeters a number of years ago. There were rumors that another firm had purchased the molds and the rights to produce the same high quality products that their predecessors (Motorola & CTS) had provided the industry. We are pleased to report that the rumors have proved true and we have located the prime manufacturer in the United States. Their product is currently being manufactured in the Philippines and distributed throughout the United States. Many of the molds had to be re-tooled, so the prices have risen to meet their financial challenges of current production. We are purchasing their products as each model becomes available. The same high quality sound is their goal! We are shipping the balance of our Motorola and CTS tweeters first until the old inventory has been depleted. If you prefer only the newer inventory, just inform us at the time of your order and we will let you know if that item is in current production. Unfortunately the new owners are still trying to decide on a name. Therefore the latest available product does NOT yet have a new name on it. These are the same Piezos that use the same original Motorola / CTS Piezo elements that make a piezo a piezo. Don't be fooled by the cheap imported copies that don't hold up."
Seems legit??...
I just want to know if anyone has ordered from these guys and if they can even tell if they are original or not. I mean they could be selling replicas as original for all I know for 3-4 times the price. Saturnus suggested the Goldwood replicas from Parts Express were the equivalent of the decent sounding Monacor replicas. But I want to get the original piezos because I want the top end to be as tight as possible and if there is such a big sonical difference I wont compromise. Plus I couldnt find the best possible woofers so I might as well go big on the rest of the system.
These guys also claim "original" horns Piezo Source - KSN1001A/1005A
I want originals in the US! What do you guys think?
Thank for this forum everyone been learning a lot. So I am ordering GW-1058s because HP-10Ws are nowhere to be found in the US.
AMP6 on the way.
But Tweeters..
According to Saturnus, its much better to have an original KSM1001A than a replica. One of the suppliers of the original he recommended was adelcom ( CTS / Motorola KSN-1001 Recessed Mount Piezo Electric Super Horn Tweeter</font> ) I emailed them after having trouble ordering and recieved a reply saying they were hacked and doing orders manually, but also their stock of that model was new unlabeled tweeters from the factory that bought CTS's rights to produce.. This is on their website:
"As everyone knows, CTS ceased manufacturing their piezo electric tweeters a number of years ago. There were rumors that another firm had purchased the molds and the rights to produce the same high quality products that their predecessors (Motorola & CTS) had provided the industry. We are pleased to report that the rumors have proved true and we have located the prime manufacturer in the United States. Their product is currently being manufactured in the Philippines and distributed throughout the United States. Many of the molds had to be re-tooled, so the prices have risen to meet their financial challenges of current production. We are purchasing their products as each model becomes available. The same high quality sound is their goal! We are shipping the balance of our Motorola and CTS tweeters first until the old inventory has been depleted. If you prefer only the newer inventory, just inform us at the time of your order and we will let you know if that item is in current production. Unfortunately the new owners are still trying to decide on a name. Therefore the latest available product does NOT yet have a new name on it. These are the same Piezos that use the same original Motorola / CTS Piezo elements that make a piezo a piezo. Don't be fooled by the cheap imported copies that don't hold up."
Seems legit??...
I just want to know if anyone has ordered from these guys and if they can even tell if they are original or not. I mean they could be selling replicas as original for all I know for 3-4 times the price. Saturnus suggested the Goldwood replicas from Parts Express were the equivalent of the decent sounding Monacor replicas. But I want to get the original piezos because I want the top end to be as tight as possible and if there is such a big sonical difference I wont compromise. Plus I couldnt find the best possible woofers so I might as well go big on the rest of the system.
These guys also claim "original" horns Piezo Source - KSN1001A/1005A
I want originals in the US! What do you guys think?
never mind all that..... ^
From their facebook lol
It was on the boominator wiki too....
theyre located 3 towns away from me....
so the sketch website dude in florida is buying piezo source's products... got it....
"Company Overview
Piezo Source, Inc. has been manufacturing and supplying the highest quality piezoelectric speakers since acquiring the exclusive rights, designs, and manufacturing line from Motorola/CTS in 2005. The speakers manufactured by Piezo Source maintain the high quality originally ensured by Motorola and later by CTS.
The quality of our bimorph ceramics means that our speakers are also used as a transceiver - speaker and microphone.
Description
The core products sold by Piezo Source are the original piezoelectric speakers and receivers designed, patented, and manufactured by Motorola/CTS for over 30 years. In addition to offering many of the original Motorola/CTS products, Piezo Source has developed new designs and materials to support the needs of new and existing customers and their developing applications."
From their facebook lol
It was on the boominator wiki too....
theyre located 3 towns away from me....
so the sketch website dude in florida is buying piezo source's products... got it....
"Company Overview
Piezo Source, Inc. has been manufacturing and supplying the highest quality piezoelectric speakers since acquiring the exclusive rights, designs, and manufacturing line from Motorola/CTS in 2005. The speakers manufactured by Piezo Source maintain the high quality originally ensured by Motorola and later by CTS.
The quality of our bimorph ceramics means that our speakers are also used as a transceiver - speaker and microphone.
Description
The core products sold by Piezo Source are the original piezoelectric speakers and receivers designed, patented, and manufactured by Motorola/CTS for over 30 years. In addition to offering many of the original Motorola/CTS products, Piezo Source has developed new designs and materials to support the needs of new and existing customers and their developing applications."
Hi.
Today i notised a bad sound from one of my drivers. Turned off and pushed on the one that sound bad. Could anyone tell me what this is? http://sdrv.ms/WNiJwH
Best regards fro Bjoern
Today i notised a bad sound from one of my drivers. Turned off and pushed on the one that sound bad. Could anyone tell me what this is? http://sdrv.ms/WNiJwH
Best regards fro Bjoern
That's a defect driver. Unsure of the cause but likely candidates are: it got kicked (unlikely), it got physically touched while playing (likely), the VC warped due to too much power (unlikely), or driver had defective glue used on the VC from the factory (very likely). It could also be the magnet that shifted due to a dropped. It sometimes happen to neo drivers for no good reason as well as neodynium expands more the ceramic magnets and forces it loose when it cools again so it shifts position.
Try posting over at speakerplans.com. There are some people over there that repairs speaker drivers for a living, they'll tell you what to do. It most likely have to be reconed and checked for a slipped magnet which will mean you have to take the whole thing apart again.
If after checking it turns out it's a factory defect which I consider likely you get it replaced but you still have to take it out which is a pain in the rear.
Try posting over at speakerplans.com. There are some people over there that repairs speaker drivers for a living, they'll tell you what to do. It most likely have to be reconed and checked for a slipped magnet which will mean you have to take the whole thing apart again.
If after checking it turns out it's a factory defect which I consider likely you get it replaced but you still have to take it out which is a pain in the rear.
my build starts here
Hi All,
I'm pretty new to all this, I made a poor start by exploring options other than using HP10W's but Saturnus put me right and I bow to this excellent design and will be keeping my Boominator as close to the mark II design as possible..... I may have some questions regarding amplification as I will not need my Boominator to run for days on end. If I can get 24hrs out of it at full volume, I will be more than happy. Still, I fully intend to incorporate solar but may want to go down the louder, 24v route at the expense of time between charges... anyway, I'm not thinking quite that far ahead yet.... I just want to get the speaker box built and worry about the electronics later.....
So, I have my box panels all cut and ready, I shall spend the next month or so cutting holes, routing and rounding edges and getting everything ready for assembly. I have ordered the HP10W's from Intertechnik.de and some speaker grills from ebay. Can't wait to start assembly.
I guess I have to order tweeters from USA but that may have to be a couple of pay packets down the line, it'll take me a while to recover from the phenolic ply and the HP10's
I'll try and post up photos as I go along......
Anyway, my final aim is for a boombox that is loud, has high quality sound (I am an audiophile) and will be great for picnics and parties on Whitstable Beach
So here's to another UK Boominator build, wish me luck
BJ
Hi All,
I'm pretty new to all this, I made a poor start by exploring options other than using HP10W's but Saturnus put me right and I bow to this excellent design and will be keeping my Boominator as close to the mark II design as possible..... I may have some questions regarding amplification as I will not need my Boominator to run for days on end. If I can get 24hrs out of it at full volume, I will be more than happy. Still, I fully intend to incorporate solar but may want to go down the louder, 24v route at the expense of time between charges... anyway, I'm not thinking quite that far ahead yet.... I just want to get the speaker box built and worry about the electronics later.....
So, I have my box panels all cut and ready, I shall spend the next month or so cutting holes, routing and rounding edges and getting everything ready for assembly. I have ordered the HP10W's from Intertechnik.de and some speaker grills from ebay. Can't wait to start assembly.
I guess I have to order tweeters from USA but that may have to be a couple of pay packets down the line, it'll take me a while to recover from the phenolic ply and the HP10's
I'll try and post up photos as I go along......
Anyway, my final aim is for a boombox that is loud, has high quality sound (I am an audiophile) and will be great for picnics and parties on Whitstable Beach
So here's to another UK Boominator build, wish me luck
BJ
Thats great BJ, I think the Original Boominator (or the MK II) would be the best to build. Looking forward to seeing some build shots.
I've pretty much have the enclosures complete, and I am tidying up the electronics.
I have spent quite some time and a fair amount of single malt deliberating over how I was going to get access/mount the Audio/usb switches over the last few days, and the original design called for a recess in the top for all this, or a rectangle cut out of the centre.
I wanted to keep the 'routed circles' look of the front, so I am splitting the functions between the front and back and putting a 'third eye' in the middle.
So, I now have a new routed hole in the center, and is a duplicate size of the vent holes.
Attached is also a mudmap of my electrical layout which I think should work. The only thing left to purchase is the 12v Sla smart charger, no hurry as I can fit it after.
I've pretty much have the enclosures complete, and I am tidying up the electronics.
I have spent quite some time and a fair amount of single malt deliberating over how I was going to get access/mount the Audio/usb switches over the last few days, and the original design called for a recess in the top for all this, or a rectangle cut out of the centre.
I wanted to keep the 'routed circles' look of the front, so I am splitting the functions between the front and back and putting a 'third eye' in the middle.
So, I now have a new routed hole in the center, and is a duplicate size of the vent holes.
Attached is also a mudmap of my electrical layout which I think should work. The only thing left to purchase is the 12v Sla smart charger, no hurry as I can fit it after.
Great stevodude.... I like the circular panels.... I do worry a little that once the box is all sealed that access to the electronics compartment is limited, I want to be able to replace Amps, etc if they go wrong.... Like many other builders, you have mounted your tweeters in the upper corners which is a deviation from the original design..... Somehow, it looks right but Saturnus knows his stuff and I wonder why he didn't mount his there...
BJ
BJ
Limiting diffraction effects. When a speaker is mounted with equal distance to each cabinet boundary you get a peak at a certain frequency determined by the distance from the acoustic center to the cabinet sides. You also get a decreasingly significant dip at all even harmonics of the center frequency, and a decreasingly significant peak at all odd harmonics.
The diffraction is used actively in the Boominator to compensate for the dip in the HP10W frequency response at around 600hz. Note that the GW1058 has a narrower and deeper dip at the same frequency which cannot be fully compensated just by diffraction alone.
At frequencies the tweeter is operating at the diffraction from being placed on the middle of the baffle has almost no effect. However, the distance to the side does and placed as drawn it will create a dip at the 5Khz peak frequency of the piezo. Placing it in the corner with almost equal distance to both the top and the end will make this dip in too severe and mean that there will be a dip in the frequency response where the piezo crossover to the woofer at 4Khz.
In any case, we are talking relatively minor changes but all being equal, I think it's fair to mention why it's placed as it is.
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