For a big headroom/efficiency boost, I use 1000u cap added in series to 4 ohm woofer for my own portable (to decrease load at subharmonic). That is a roll-off, not a block. The amplifier "wants" to drive inductance, so locate these new caps closer to the woofers, not directly onto the amplifier (so there's some cable between the amp and caps). One cap for left and another cap for right. It is that easy.
You can also "right size" the amplifier's input cap. These are found on the board, series in between the volume knob and amplifier. Usually, they're very close to the volume knob, if the board has one, or else they're very close to the input jacks. Smaller sizes will make a roll-off.
"Right Size" in both cases means choosing the smallest size that doesn't reduce audible bass response.
If you do both ("right sized" input caps and output caps), that will conserve resources by eliminating waste, and then Amp6 will probably be enough amplifier. You're in for a nice surprise.
Input signal too low is one way to look at it.
Amplifier gain too low is the other way to look at it (most amplifier designers assume loud 1980's CD player is the source).
Check the Amp6 forum threads at 41hz and get directions on how to simply parallel an additional resistor on someplace to boost the gain.
Alternatively, the Muse TA2020 is extremely easy to mod, with all through hole components (you won't need a magnifying glass to find SMD's in your carpet). Look for the caps that are in-series to the volume pot, and those are your input caps, and then look for the resistors that are in series between the input caps and amp (probably the resistors are right at the input caps). . . easily parallel more resistors onto the existing resistors and this addition will fit onto the bottom of the board really really easily (right onto the pins of the existing resistors).
There's no need to set the gain higher than just enough to allow the phone to push the (fully charged) amplifier to just barely start clipping.
Be sure to right size some output caps (series to the woofer) before adjusting the amplifier gain settings, if you don't want to do the gain settings surgery twice (amplifier has more headroom after adding output caps). Next, set the gain. And, lastly, right-size the input caps.
P.S.
With output caps added series to the woofers (efficiency), with right-sized input caps (slight bass roll off), and with higher gain settings (so your phone can push the amp), you're in for a heck of a surprising power boost.
Fuse should be minimum 10A and preferably 15A, otherwise it's not big enough for peak output in 24V mode. The chip has over-current shutdown, over-temperature shutdown etc etc so don't worry about it. The fuse is meant to protect the battery from short-cuts, not to protect the amp.
Input gain on the chip is designed for line signals. It cannot be adjusted so you must feed it line signals, for example from a preamp like your Behringer mixer or through a line trafo.
Easiest way to cut bass is to change the input caps on the amp to a lower value.
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Please read the posts you are replying to. Saxoman has an amp9 which has the TAA4100A chip, not the TA2020.
It was the second word in his post after: "Hi".
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Hi, Is this the best way to wire up my two solar panels?
Do i put them on a switch for when the unit is not in use?
Will i bother with a regulator? here is a link again to the solar panels i am going to buy:
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Here is a diagram of the way i was going to wire them in:
Do i put them on a switch for when the unit is not in use?
Will i bother with a regulator? here is a link again to the solar panels i am going to buy:
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Here is a diagram of the way i was going to wire them in:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, move the switch to be in series with the fuse. I think you want to be able to switch the amp on and off.
P.S.
Wow, rather gigantic price.
Isn't it less expensive to get 1 of 5w solar panel instead of 2 of 2.5w solar panels?
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Yes i do have a switch inline with the fuse,i didnt show it as i am only looking for information in relation to the wiring of the solar panels.
I am looking for either one panel on one (top) side or 2 panels on the 2 (top) sides to fit between the slot for the wiring on top of the box. The panels i am only interested in are within the available dimmentions on the top of the box. >279x393mm.
Any suggestions for a good solar panel website would be appreciated, plus which ones to use and the requirements of a regulator?
I am looking for either one panel on one (top) side or 2 panels on the 2 (top) sides to fit between the slot for the wiring on top of the box. The panels i am only interested in are within the available dimmentions on the top of the box. >279x393mm.
Any suggestions for a good solar panel website would be appreciated, plus which ones to use and the requirements of a regulator?
Signaturnus
I started low and ad more and more gain, people started to mowe away and was amased of how lous it is. I couldn't stop grindin. I only had a 7A fuse but it was enough, when it strt to clip i turned back down.
Maybe i don't have to filter sub 100 hz? Ore could i just use Equlizer to set it lower? Aigain thank you very mutch for making this possible.
After i read this i tested it in a 3000 square meter's sportshall. It plays loud as hell
I started low and ad more and more gain, people started to mowe away and was amased of how lous it is. I couldn't stop grindin. I only had a 7A fuse but it was enough, when it strt to clip i turned back down.Maybe i don't have to filter sub 100 hz? Ore could i just use Equlizer to set it lower? Aigain thank you very mutch for making this possible.
Got an extremely cool idea today, to build in a cooling system with electric pump, just press a button and you'll get a cold sex on the beach
The cooling system will have a container in stainless steel together with a peltier and a cooler. The cooling system will take extra power so 4 5W Solar Cell panel 5 Watt 12 Volt Garden Fountain pond Battery Charger +Diode | eBay ,3-4 7Ah batteries and a Phocos CIS05 Laderegulator - Regulatorer - Sol energi - Shop would take care of that. Problem is where to mount the system without destroying the boominator design. The distance between the speakers are calculated so i cant make the compartement in the middle bigger?
If put the system on one of the sides it would block a port, but perhaps I can have 4 ports(2 on the front and 2 on the back)?
If neither is possible I'll put the system on the top.
What are your thoughts on this?
The cooling system will have a container in stainless steel together with a peltier and a cooler. The cooling system will take extra power so 4 5W Solar Cell panel 5 Watt 12 Volt Garden Fountain pond Battery Charger +Diode | eBay ,3-4 7Ah batteries and a Phocos CIS05 Laderegulator - Regulatorer - Sol energi - Shop would take care of that. Problem is where to mount the system without destroying the boominator design. The distance between the speakers are calculated so i cant make the compartement in the middle bigger?
If put the system on one of the sides it would block a port, but perhaps I can have 4 ports(2 on the front and 2 on the back)?
If neither is possible I'll put the system on the top.
What are your thoughts on this?
You can make the middle compartment bigger, no problem. I think your major problem will be having enough power.
Peltier element are seriously ineffective. If I recall correctly the most effective peltiers have around 10% efficiency if ambient temperature is optimal and cooling is optimal. Let's just assume it's not, and go with 5% efficiency.
A cup of water of 100ml takes around 420Ws to heat or cool one degree. Let's just round that up to 1.2Wh per degree.
If ambient temperature is 25 degrees, then you need to cool it 20 degrees, and remember that 5% effieciency, that's times 20 again.
So all in all you need around 480Wh or 40Ah to cool one cup of water.
I may have made a mistake here as everything is from memory but at the end of the day, it's a really really bad idea.
But since you're at the beach already, why not water cooling. 15m of tubing, something weigh the end down so you get to the cold water at the bottom, and a water pump. That's about it, really.
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Ouch, knew they weren't super efficient but that's really bad. A compressor seams the only way but will be to expensive and heavy...
Perhaps the best way would be a regular ice pack
But I think I'll discharge this idea..Sprayed today, Matt black with a silver flec, happy with it!
Now to wire the fecking thing!!
Getting primed-
Now to wire the fecking thing!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Getting primed-
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hi guys, thanks so much to Saturnus for this design and everyone else for the tips. I'm starting a Boominator build and would love some advice re combining solar and mains battery charging. (I have read this entire thread and searched many phrases before posting!)
Can I mains charge, and run the amplifier at the same time?
Here's my workings-out.
I will have two 12v, 7Ah SLAs, fed by 2x10w amorphous panels, into a 10A solar controller. I will mostly run from solar, but want to use the Boominator at home sometimes too, preferably listening to music while trickle-charging from mains at the same time.
I will take danielwritesbac's advice of:
"Put TWO low voltage schottky diodes into the input + port of your charge controller.
The diode's stripe goes closest to the charge controller.
Connect the solar cell to one of the schottky.
Connect laptop charger (SMPS) to the Other schottky. "
From what I have read (Frequently Asked Questions – Exegon Battery Chargers), I think it is safe to have a laptop 12v supply charge my SLAs, and run the AMP6 load at the same time. As long as:
1) While charging the SLAs, the DC load current should be ≤ 20% of charger's current rating.
AMP6 max current draw is 350ma, so, laptop charger needs to be minimum 1.75A.
2) A charge regulator also needs to be present, so if there is a battery on charge voltage increase, this doesn't affect the AMP6. I assume a solar controller would take care of this?
3) Finally, I've read that the max amp rating of a charger should be ≤ the battery Ah rating / 5. So, for two 7Ah SLAs (14Ah), this would be a maximum charger rating of 2.8a/h.
4) It appears OK to have two separate inputs feeding into the solar regulator, via schottky diodes, and leave these constantly connected.
Does all of this sound right? Is there any specific type of wiring I should do? I'm assuming the 4th question means I'm parralel wiring the solar and mains chargers, which is the right thing to do (in case panels add charge while mains charging).
Thanks for any help. I'm compiling a list of found answers to my n00b questions, in a google doc, which I will post for others once boominator is completed.
Can I mains charge, and run the amplifier at the same time?
Here's my workings-out.
I will have two 12v, 7Ah SLAs, fed by 2x10w amorphous panels, into a 10A solar controller. I will mostly run from solar, but want to use the Boominator at home sometimes too, preferably listening to music while trickle-charging from mains at the same time.
I will take danielwritesbac's advice of:
"Put TWO low voltage schottky diodes into the input + port of your charge controller.
The diode's stripe goes closest to the charge controller.
Connect the solar cell to one of the schottky.
Connect laptop charger (SMPS) to the Other schottky. "
From what I have read (Frequently Asked Questions – Exegon Battery Chargers), I think it is safe to have a laptop 12v supply charge my SLAs, and run the AMP6 load at the same time. As long as:
1) While charging the SLAs, the DC load current should be ≤ 20% of charger's current rating.
AMP6 max current draw is 350ma, so, laptop charger needs to be minimum 1.75A.
2) A charge regulator also needs to be present, so if there is a battery on charge voltage increase, this doesn't affect the AMP6. I assume a solar controller would take care of this?
3) Finally, I've read that the max amp rating of a charger should be ≤ the battery Ah rating / 5. So, for two 7Ah SLAs (14Ah), this would be a maximum charger rating of 2.8a/h.
4) It appears OK to have two separate inputs feeding into the solar regulator, via schottky diodes, and leave these constantly connected.
Does all of this sound right? Is there any specific type of wiring I should do? I'm assuming the 4th question means I'm parralel wiring the solar and mains chargers, which is the right thing to do (in case panels add charge while mains charging).
Thanks for any help. I'm compiling a list of found answers to my n00b questions, in a google doc, which I will post for others once boominator is completed.
Sorta relevant, to the Australian builders... Jaycar knocked $10 off their 7.2Ah SLA for December
7.2 Amp Hour 12V Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Jaycar Electronics
7.2 Amp Hour 12V Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Jaycar Electronics
Also relevant to me in NZ, same discount over here, thanks for the tip.
7.2 Amp Hour 12V Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Jaycar Electronics
I have looked through the thread but cant find an answer (or one that I can understand anyway). I am finally going to be building a Boominator (been waiting to be able to for a few years now!) , but in two halves, so you can unclip them and just use one, or get some separation between l/r channels. So each half will be mono with 2xHP10W+2xTweeter+Amp+battery. For the amps I have two TA2020's, I know you cant bridge the channels. Would it be better for me to use just one channel of the amp into both speakers (@ 4 ohm), or one channel per speaker( @ 8 ohm)? Hope that makes sense!
Build it like a halfinator with an extra passive part. Just wire the speakers as normal for the halfinator and use a switch to wire them as normal for a full Boominator when the extra part is connected. Remember to make it fool-proof so people can't accidentally switch while playing. For example by using a key switch. That way you only need amp.
Alternatively just build 2 halfinators and use splitter cables so you get mono in each when you want to use them in stereo.
Alternatively just build 2 halfinators and use splitter cables so you get mono in each when you want to use them in stereo.
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Thanks for the reply Saturnus. The halfinator is stereo tho yes? I assume this has drawbacks, eg two halfinators /= 1 boominator? I already have the two amps, maybe I should ask; what is the best way to wire up one mono halfinator, with a 2 channel amp. It seems the only way to get all the information (eg It seems hard to find simple info like 'Just wire the speakers as normal for the halfinator' is to read the entire 300+ page thread, so that's what I'm going to go do now
is to read the entire 300+ page thread, so that's what I'm going to go do now