Nope.
But I'm building one. It will take some time, but I will make sure to post loads of pictures and stuff to help future builders.
P.audio SN10MB series II
Hi.
I finaly start collecting parts for a Signature build but only got 3 P.audio SN10MB series II from Blu aran. Any idea where to by one of this? I also realised that my soildering skills have left me after to many years away
so i have get somone to asamble my Amp9 basic or by a pre asembeled one.
I have tried to contact 41 hz but no reply yet. Maby here?
How long could it play on batteries and what kind of powersupply would be perfect for charge and supply?
Best regards from Bjorn
Hi.
I finaly start collecting parts for a Signature build but only got 3 P.audio SN10MB series II from Blu aran. Any idea where to by one of this? I also realised that my soildering skills have left me after to many years away
so i have get somone to asamble my Amp9 basic or by a pre asembeled one.I have tried to contact 41 hz but no reply yet. Maby here?
How long could it play on batteries and what kind of powersupply would be perfect for charge and supply?
Best regards from Bjorn
Soldering tools
People have different methods for keeping the soldering iron clean (for better connections). The mainstream method seems to involve a dodgy little wet sponge for wiping the soldering iron tip, but mine was unexpectedly flammable, so I had to think up a different method. Now I find it fast and easy to wipe the black stuff off of the soldering iron tip with a handy #0000 (or similar) steel wool that sets in the soldering tray and lasts a very long time without any trouble.
Now that I've gotten older, I can't hold stuff absolutely perfectly still every time, and, unfortunately, with 60/40 solder, that can make for random failures from weak solder joints (a pretty bad idea for a portable item). However, the problem does not occur with 63/37 solder and all of those connections are usually quite durable.
I'm not ashamed to admit that I heat up the De-Soldering iron at the same time as the soldering iron. It is Murphey's Law. If you didn't heat up the De-Soldering iron, there will be a soldering error. Sometimes, we could just heat the solder error and simply shake the hot solder off the board. But, I wouldn't start a large project without have a De-Soldering iron available.
Another helper may be a variable power soldering iron, like the common 15-30 where you can turn down the power for frail parts (like some ceramic and tantalum caps) or turn up the power for larger connections like big diodes and cables.
A strongly lit workspace is a must. I boost the room light with both an led headlamp and a table lamp in addition to the ceiling fixture. There is also the magnifier+light "gooseneck" lamp available at most craft/hobby stores for making fine work much easier. Engineering glasses (makes things look bigger without requiring decreased distance) can be used to spot SMD's.
Well, there was the briefing on soldering tools. Its going to be a lot easier if you've got good tools for it.
The almost easy fix is Gel Flux. This is a form of flux packed with a little bit of petroleum jelly. Here in the USA, canisters of the stuff are available at the radio shack store. This is extremely easy. . . until cleanup time. It takes alcohol + a little bit of dish soap (like a few drops of dawn per 2 cups 90%+ alcohol) to make a solution that, along with the help of a toothbrush, can wash the board clean afterwards (and then you rinse with 90%+ alcohol), but at least the solder connections are very beautiful.
People have different methods for keeping the soldering iron clean (for better connections). The mainstream method seems to involve a dodgy little wet sponge for wiping the soldering iron tip, but mine was unexpectedly flammable, so I had to think up a different method. Now I find it fast and easy to wipe the black stuff off of the soldering iron tip with a handy #0000 (or similar) steel wool that sets in the soldering tray and lasts a very long time without any trouble.
Now that I've gotten older, I can't hold stuff absolutely perfectly still every time, and, unfortunately, with 60/40 solder, that can make for random failures from weak solder joints (a pretty bad idea for a portable item). However, the problem does not occur with 63/37 solder and all of those connections are usually quite durable.
I'm not ashamed to admit that I heat up the De-Soldering iron at the same time as the soldering iron. It is Murphey's Law. If you didn't heat up the De-Soldering iron, there will be a soldering error. Sometimes, we could just heat the solder error and simply shake the hot solder off the board. But, I wouldn't start a large project without have a De-Soldering iron available.
Another helper may be a variable power soldering iron, like the common 15-30 where you can turn down the power for frail parts (like some ceramic and tantalum caps) or turn up the power for larger connections like big diodes and cables.
A strongly lit workspace is a must. I boost the room light with both an led headlamp and a table lamp in addition to the ceiling fixture. There is also the magnifier+light "gooseneck" lamp available at most craft/hobby stores for making fine work much easier. Engineering glasses (makes things look bigger without requiring decreased distance) can be used to spot SMD's.
Well, there was the briefing on soldering tools. Its going to be a lot easier if you've got good tools for it.
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The SN-10BM II magnets are neodynium. It makes no difference whether they are mounted "magnet to magnet" or against the center brace since the magnet is hidden and shielded inside the chassis structure so it will have very little flux contact with the other driver.
The vented pole piece in speaker driver's primary function is cooling of the pole piece to increase power handling. And a Boominator hardly needs to have the full 600W power handling per driver.
The vented pole piece has little to no effect on the sound contrary to popular belief. The reason is simple. With a 10" driver it's only about 2-3% of the total amount of air moved by the cone that will flow through the pole piece. And even though there will be a slight compression of that air resulting from blocking the pole piece it is really miniscule compared to the enormous compression the rest of the moved air sees in the vented cabinet.
I suggest routing the center brace to reasonable working depth 3-4mm from either side depending on whether you have the grill in front and mounted from the inside or not. Remember to route out 6 "ears" to accommodate the chassis. Use a large amount of plastic padding to secure them in place.
I have mounted them on the outside, and routed a circle so that they only stick out ~ 0,3 mm. I think it looks pretty cool. In my case it's not a Boominator build, but here is a picture (speakers not finished), so you can see how it looks:
Attachments
No. You have to think this through yourself. Signature was and is a thought experiment of what I'd do if I had unlimited funds and still wanted to build something in the same design envelope. So yes, everything should match together and play phenomenally. However, it's never been built or tested before so you're traveling on untouched ground.
The main reason why I haven't built it myself yet is that I find it much more fun to design new stuff or experiment with new technologies with the limited free time I have.
How to connect the speakers
Hey!
I've spent a couple of days reading this thread. I've bought 4pcs of the P.audio HP-10W and 4pcs of the cheap piezos found here: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 .
I have a small T2020 amp. that I would like to run these 4 speakers and 4 piezos. The physical layout will be about same as the standard Boominator. My plan this far is to make two parallel loops for each channel(left/right), one channel for the two subs in series, and another for the two piezos in series. How do I make a filter to avoid the subs getting high frequencies and avoid the piezos to get low? Wouldn't that improve the soundquality?
All in all, what is the proper way to connect the speakers to my amplifier, and what electrical parts would improve the sound?
If someone from Denmark would help me in danish per email instead, it would be much appreciated! But otherwise, hope someone will take time to help me
Hey!
I've spent a couple of days reading this thread. I've bought 4pcs of the P.audio HP-10W and 4pcs of the cheap piezos found here: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 .
I have a small T2020 amp. that I would like to run these 4 speakers and 4 piezos. The physical layout will be about same as the standard Boominator. My plan this far is to make two parallel loops for each channel(left/right), one channel for the two subs in series, and another for the two piezos in series. How do I make a filter to avoid the subs getting high frequencies and avoid the piezos to get low? Wouldn't that improve the soundquality?
All in all, what is the proper way to connect the speakers to my amplifier, and what electrical parts would improve the sound?
If someone from Denmark would help me in danish per email instead, it would be much appreciated! But otherwise, hope someone will take time to help me
Hey,
I am almost done with my boominator now.
It plays well and Ok loud.
But i hoped it would play a little louder.
I tested the dB with a random application for my phone, and it only said 70-75 dB.
Is there any method to give a little boost? A pre-amp or something?
My setup is:
4*Hp-10w
4* Monacor mpt-001
Muse ta2020 amp.
Btw. some pictures of the build-process.
Boominator - Imgur
I have installed the top of the cabinet, since the pictures.
Greetings Hanne
I am almost done with my boominator now.
It plays well and Ok loud.
But i hoped it would play a little louder.
I tested the dB with a random application for my phone, and it only said 70-75 dB.
Is there any method to give a little boost? A pre-amp or something?
My setup is:
4*Hp-10w
4* Monacor mpt-001
Muse ta2020 amp.
Btw. some pictures of the build-process.
Boominator - Imgur
I have installed the top of the cabinet, since the pictures.
Greetings Hanne
Now I doubt the accuracy of an app but it should be playing around 110dB easily at 1 meters distance. If it's only playing 70-75dB the amp isn't working at all. That would be the volume it could play directly on the phone output.
First is to check if you've done everything correctly and that every part functions correctly separately. So you test every speaker separately, observe correct polarity, test the amp with different line inputs, so you try both with an output from your computer and from your iphone. And so on. Simply test if there is any part that is not functioning correctly. It could be as simple as a bad cable.
Held og lykke.
First is to check if you've done everything correctly and that every part functions correctly separately. So you test every speaker separately, observe correct polarity, test the amp with different line inputs, so you try both with an output from your computer and from your iphone. And so on. Simply test if there is any part that is not functioning correctly. It could be as simple as a bad cable.
Held og lykke.
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Yeah, that application might be inaccurate, but not 35 dB
I will test it tomorrow and hope i find something wrong.
Thank you for your quick response!
Fortunately, the Muse TA2020 amp has full size resistors,
. . .so you can make settings.
See also posts 3204, 3193, 3192, 3190, 3169, and 3165.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can compare the resistors to: TA2020 Datasheet.
Scroll down and look at the left side of the schematic.
Find Pins 9,10 & 12,13 and you have found the inputs.
Find the input caps (Ci) on both board and schematic.
Find resistors (Ri) that are inbound of your input caps.
Change those resistors to boost gain louder for iphone.
-or-
Instead of boosting the amp, build a Cmoy preamplifier.
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Yeah, that application might be inaccurate, but not 35 dB
I will test it tomorrow and hope i find something wrong.
Thank you for your quick response!
Some time ago I also tried to make some sound pressure level measurements but also concluded that it showed a way too low value.
Try to take a look at this (from the description of a random app):
REMEMBER!! The smart phone microphones were aligned to human voice (300-3400Hz, 40-60dB). Therefore the maximum values are LIMITED by the manufacturers. The very loud sound cannot be recognized. Moto Droid(max.100), Galaxy S(81dB), Galaxy S2(98dB)...
Easy way to make it work more accurately if it's microphone limited would be to measure at 10 meters distance instead of 1 meter. It should be exactly 10dB down (or at 100m distance where it should be 20dB down
but then there's a lot of other factors in play).I got this anwer from P-audio
Dear Bjorn,
We issue production line for producing 1 x SN(ii)-10MB. Please advise how to ship them by air or courier?
Thank you,
Victoria Wit
Hope it dont take ages
What about this driver? P-Audio SN10-300MB 10" 300W 8 Ohm Loudspeaker Driver 174.42
Is it the new version of sn2 10 MB?
Bjoern
Dear Bjorn,
We issue production line for producing 1 x SN(ii)-10MB. Please advise how to ship them by air or courier?
Thank you,
Victoria Wit
Hope it dont take ages
What about this driver? P-Audio SN10-300MB 10" 300W 8 Ohm Loudspeaker Driver 174.42
Is it the new version of sn2 10 MB?
Bjoern
