So, anyone who could provide some help with http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/104402-boominator-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-292.html#post3054645
]the switch mentioned in this previous post[/url], please?
]the switch mentioned in this previous post[/url], please?
Necessarily, a Class D "No Soldering" needs adjustable gain switch provided if you plan to use it with digiplayer/iPhone.
For example:
Sure 2 X 25 watt TDA7492 Class-D Audio Amplifier
"Gain adjustable–four fixed gain settings: 25.6 dB, 31.6 dB, 35.1 dB and 37.6 dB"
Isn't that nice? Just flip the switch. No soldering required
P.S.
However you could fix the amp you already own instead of buying another.
If soldering connections is difficult for you, then try this stuff:
1). (the "easy button") Gel Flux for soldering success. Definitely a must-have!
2). Big heat for big things; small heat for small things, dual wattage iron
3). The undo feature. Can also be used with Gel Flux to fix old stuff
4). 63/37 and 62/36/2 don't shake loose later, so your work is more durable than with 60/40
A couple of days ago me and my friends were pretty much done with our boominator (except painting etc)... Well atleast we thought.
We went in the beautiful weather to test the thing out. We were very happy with the sound and build and enjoyed pumping music, well at least for an hour or so...
Then happened the nightmare. When I was going to change from one iPod to another the sound just died with a pop (like someone cut the power), and saw some dark smoke rise from the amp. "This is not happening" was my though and disconnected everything as soon I could. I could immediately smell that something had burnt and was soon going to see that a "copper band" (or what you call it) in the circuit board (amp6-basic) had been burnt into to pieces. The Tripath-chip was not hot and didn't smell burnt, so I don't think it got damaged.
I really have absolutely no idea what would have caused this nightmare, so I'm turning to you guys and would be so glad if anyone could help me out with this situation. Why did this happen? Is it possible to solve or should I just buy a new amp? And what can I do to make sure it won't happen again?
I did not solder the amp6 my self, I bought assembled from profusionplc.
(41Hz-TA2020)
The cable between our SLA-battery and the amp was soldered by someone who pretty much works with soldering. He also soldered a circuit breaker between the SLA and the amp (on the +cable). He did though have to resolder like three times on the board as the cable was to thick and keeping breaking when "peeling" it, calling it "probably the most annoying soldering I've ever done).
The SLA-battery was a 12V 12ah.
Here are some pictures (clickable) of the amp6, would be really appreciated if you could take a look and maybe help us on this thing.
Thanks and all the best!
We went in the beautiful weather to test the thing out. We were very happy with the sound and build and enjoyed pumping music, well at least for an hour or so...
Then happened the nightmare. When I was going to change from one iPod to another the sound just died with a pop (like someone cut the power), and saw some dark smoke rise from the amp. "This is not happening" was my though and disconnected everything as soon I could. I could immediately smell that something had burnt and was soon going to see that a "copper band" (or what you call it) in the circuit board (amp6-basic) had been burnt into to pieces. The Tripath-chip was not hot and didn't smell burnt, so I don't think it got damaged.
I really have absolutely no idea what would have caused this nightmare, so I'm turning to you guys and would be so glad if anyone could help me out with this situation. Why did this happen? Is it possible to solve or should I just buy a new amp? And what can I do to make sure it won't happen again?
I did not solder the amp6 my self, I bought assembled from profusionplc.
(41Hz-TA2020)
The cable between our SLA-battery and the amp was soldered by someone who pretty much works with soldering. He also soldered a circuit breaker between the SLA and the amp (on the +cable). He did though have to resolder like three times on the board as the cable was to thick and keeping breaking when "peeling" it, calling it "probably the most annoying soldering I've ever done).
The SLA-battery was a 12V 12ah.
Here are some pictures (clickable) of the amp6, would be really appreciated if you could take a look and maybe help us on this thing.
Thanks and all the best!
Attachments
Done
Pretty easy to see what happened. It was a bad solder. Maybe a few stray wires but anyways it shorted the input power before the fuse. Nothing has happened to the chip most likely though.
This is why you should always always always have a fuse on the battery.
How to fix it. Easy. Clean the area up and resolder it properly. Yes, it takes a long time to solder on double copper thickness boards and thick power wires but your friend should have known that. Or just cut it off and buy a DC barrel connector with terminals already on them and use the DC plug instead. Usually costs about $2.
After that is done, you take a razor and remove the power ground to signal ground strip that has burn off the pcb (the exposed copper strip). It's made very thin on purpose in order to burn through if this happens. then you take a very very thin piece of wire and coonect the two points again with the holes made for it.
This is why you should always always always have a fuse on the battery.
How to fix it. Easy. Clean the area up and resolder it properly. Yes, it takes a long time to solder on double copper thickness boards and thick power wires but your friend should have known that. Or just cut it off and buy a DC barrel connector with terminals already on them and use the DC plug instead. Usually costs about $2.
After that is done, you take a razor and remove the power ground to signal ground strip that has burn off the pcb (the exposed copper strip). It's made very thin on purpose in order to burn through if this happens. then you take a very very thin piece of wire and coonect the two points again with the holes made for it.
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Thanks for your great answer Saturnus. I've read it through some times now and I'm pretty sure I'm following what your saying. 
Glad it could be fixed (even seems as a pretty easy fix). Yea I think will go for a DC connector with screw terminals and use the DC plug instead.
For now, just one question: when you say a "very very thin piece of wire", what exactly do you mean? Like one single copper wire from a speaker cable? And how should we then connect the two points? Solder on both the holes?
As you can hear (see) I'm far from an expert on theese things. Really appreciate you helping me out!
All the best
Glad it could be fixed (even seems as a pretty easy fix). Yea I think will go for a DC connector with screw terminals and use the DC plug instead.
For now, just one question: when you say a "very very thin piece of wire", what exactly do you mean? Like one single copper wire from a speaker cable? And how should we then connect the two points? Solder on both the holes?
As you can hear (see) I'm far from an expert on theese things. Really appreciate you helping me out!
All the best
Hey,
I thought of using the Eminence Basslite S2010, because the HP10W are sold out everywhere.
Can I use these speakers with the MUSE-M20-EX2-TA2020 Amplifier?
Will I need to use different piezo tweeters than Monacor MPT-001?
I saw you commenting that the drivers should be connected by a pvc tube covering the magnets, why would you need to do that?
Lastly, why would I need to lower the depth of the port to 24mm, instead of 36mm?
Thank you
I thought of using the Eminence Basslite S2010, because the HP10W are sold out everywhere.
Can I use these speakers with the MUSE-M20-EX2-TA2020 Amplifier?
Will I need to use different piezo tweeters than Monacor MPT-001?
I saw you commenting that the drivers should be connected by a pvc tube covering the magnets, why would you need to do that?
Lastly, why would I need to lower the depth of the port to 24mm, instead of 36mm?
Thank you
Saturnus, can you explaine more about having a fuse on the battey. You're writing that should always, always, always be there
What? Seriously?
post #2928 "This is why you should always always always have a fuse on the battery"
What part of that is confusing? You must always have a fuse at the power source. This is rudimentary knowledge.
Sorry, but this question made me realize that I really need to take a break from answering questions in this thread before I explode in a flaming rage.
That's all, folks. I might answer more questions after the summer is gone. I will not reply to PMs or e-mails either.
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We seriously need to get a Boominator wiki on the go. Once it gets filled in with enough content, it should deflect about 99% of the questions, and that should hopefully preserve what's left of your sanity..
I've never created a wiki in my life, and I don't have much free time to undertake such a project, but I'll certainly contribute wherever I can once it gets started up. Anyone on here, who knows a thing or two about wikis, want to take the reins?