1. Haven't tried this, but I could guess that it's a hassle
2. I always screw the HP-10W onto the baffle plywood - no glue. There's some foam on the speaker which is compressed a little when there is put pressure on it from the screws. That always made it airtight for me. But this is also only possible when not mounting the grill between the baffle and speaker (I guess).
3. I guess you can try cut a little off the handle (with a router maybe) and make room for the tweeter. But don't cut too much off
)
4. The only things you have to paint/prime right away before putting it all together are all the open cuts, which are to be inside the cabinet. (I actually primed and painted the rounding for the HP-10W itself afterwards - it is possible, just more troublesome)
But remember that I also never assembled the boominator 100 % correctly
2. I always screw the HP-10W onto the baffle plywood - no glue. There's some foam on the speaker which is compressed a little when there is put pressure on it from the screws. That always made it airtight for me. But this is also only possible when not mounting the grill between the baffle and speaker (I guess).
3. I guess you can try cut a little off the handle (with a router maybe) and make room for the tweeter. But don't cut too much off
)4. The only things you have to paint/prime right away before putting it all together are all the open cuts, which are to be inside the cabinet. (I actually primed and painted the rounding for the HP-10W itself afterwards - it is possible, just more troublesome
)But remember that I also never assembled the boominator 100 % correctly
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1. Haven't tried this, but I could guess that it's a hassle
2. I always screw the HP-10W onto the baffle plywood - no glue. There's some foam on the speaker which is compressed a little when there is put pressure on it from the screws. That always made it airtight for me. But this is also only possible when not mounting the grill between the baffle and speaker (I guess).
3. I guess you can try cut a little off the handle (with a router maybe) and make room for the tweeter. But don't cut too much off
4. The only things you have to paint/prime right away before putting it all together are all the open cuts, which are to be inside the cabinet. (I actually primed and painted the rounding for the HP-10W itself afterwards - it is possible, just more troublesome
But remember that I also never assembled the boominator 100 % correctly
Yeah the glue / grill thing is what i am worried about.
I think there's been a misunderstanding here. I didn't say glue the grill to neither the cabinet nor the driver. Instead you use a thick layer of glue on both the cabinet and the driver and wait until they're glue-ready as per instructions for the specific glue you use. Then you just pop the grill in between the two without the rubber band, and compress lightly or as needed by the glue instructions. After hardening, remove compression and allow the foam surround of the driver to reset before using sealer around the driver.
I have the last couple of weeks been trying and trying to get a hold of, when and where I can get the bubble horn tweeters - and it seems nearly impossible to get a hold of them. So now I see myself left with two choices - either the PHT407 which are quite expensive but from what I can read some of the best, or a replica to the CTR KSN1001A which is what was recomended in the beginning of this thread (something like these https://www.onlyfactorydirect.com/p-376-4-pcs-piezo-tweeters-replacement-for-motorola-ksn1001a.aspx).
now my questions are:
how does the replicas compare to the bubble tweeters?
and
are the PHT407 really worth buying at that high a price?
now my questions are:
how does the replicas compare to the bubble tweeters?
and
are the PHT407 really worth buying at that high a price?
The PHT407 is not a piezo tweeter, so you can't use them with with an AMP6 or similar without some serious cooling, as the impedance will drop to ~2ohm per channel with those tweeters. You'll need to go with an AMP9 as this has 4 outputs, but then you need some sort of DSP or pllxo. In this case, the MiniDSP has been discussed and decided to be a recommended choice!
Answer:
I just got a reply from the salesman about the bubble tweeters.
He states that they are "at least another 3 to 4 weeks away" from new supply.
As long as they are back for next year this should be good news.
That's not quite accurate. All you need is a passive filter. I have earlier in this thread described a passive filter that would fit.
Hello! I'm new here but have been reading every page, maybe skipt 20-40 pages.
Anyway I still feels lika a beginner and I'm about to start soldering now.
My English isn't so good so I'm sorry for that.
To the problem, I'm following the guide at http://post.anomy.free.fr/public/doc/amp6-basic-ai2.pdf
It says that I'm gonna start with Bag 1 but my bags were'nt marked with any numbers so i searched on google and find a picture.
But thats not the problem.
Here comes the problem and that is that my capacitors/resistors (or what they're called) doesn't have the same color in the first picture in the pdf guide.
Here's 3 pictures:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/242/imag0440copy.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/838/imag0441copy.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5859/imag0442copy.jpg
How do I know where to place them?
Maybe I should have posted this at 41hz forum but any help I can get would be great!
Anyway I still feels lika a beginner and I'm about to start soldering now.
My English isn't so good so I'm sorry for that.
To the problem, I'm following the guide at http://post.anomy.free.fr/public/doc/amp6-basic-ai2.pdf
It says that I'm gonna start with Bag 1 but my bags were'nt marked with any numbers so i searched on google and find a picture.
But thats not the problem.
Here comes the problem and that is that my capacitors/resistors (or what they're called) doesn't have the same color in the first picture in the pdf guide.
Here's 3 pictures:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/242/imag0440copy.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/838/imag0441copy.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5859/imag0442copy.jpg
How do I know where to place them?
Maybe I should have posted this at 41hz forum but any help I can get would be great!
Why on earth are you following a 5 years and 2 revisions old instruction when the instruction for the current version is free for download at 41hz.com?
41hz Forum
Make sure you read through the entire instruction first before soldering anything. It may also be very wise to look at the forum to see if there's any tricks. Most people find that the order of solder works a lot better if you start with the SMD parts. Then resistors, caps, connectors and the rest. In that order.
41hz Forum
Make sure you read through the entire instruction first before soldering anything. It may also be very wise to look at the forum to see if there's any tricks. Most people find that the order of solder works a lot better if you start with the SMD parts. Then resistors, caps, connectors and the rest. In that order.
Oh sorry I missed that. Well everything seems to be ok now.
I already have the HP-10W and QLM-1005 since the bubble tweeters cannot be ordered yet.
I'm not going to use sla batteries because at some festivals they are not allowed in sweden so I was thinking of using LR20 (D) batteries in series of 8 or 9, and I guess that will work?
If I have 8 batteries rated at 1.5 V that would be 1.5 x 8 = 12 V, right?
But how long will I be able to play at maximum volume?
I can't find any info of the capacity of the batteries but i guess they are somewhere between 12000-18000 mah.
I already have the HP-10W and QLM-1005 since the bubble tweeters cannot be ordered yet.
I'm not going to use sla batteries because at some festivals they are not allowed in sweden so I was thinking of using LR20 (D) batteries in series of 8 or 9, and I guess that will work?
If I have 8 batteries rated at 1.5 V that would be 1.5 x 8 = 12 V, right?
But how long will I be able to play at maximum volume?
I can't find any info of the capacity of the batteries but i guess they are somewhere between 12000-18000 mah.
No. Alkaline batteries drop to 1.2V under load within minutes so you'd need 10 in series.
Technically the specification for most alkaline cells reads 18Ah but that's a very moderated truth because that would be under extremely low load conditions and allowing the batteries to drop to 0.8V per cell.
Realistically you can expect 6-8 hours playing time, so actually only about 2-2.5Ah under real life use at maximum volume. But that's only for top of range brand name batteries. Expect much less for cheap ones.
If a festival don't allow SLAs then go with li-ion/LFP cells. It'll be way cheaper and better.
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even though i've read through the thread and searched it for the part where you have described a passive filter i haven't been able to find it... if either remember where the roundabouts of this post is or if you could tell it again, it would be appreciated
we've decided to go with the pht407 because of your expertise in a previous post where you described the cons with choosing this model from the other pht407's
Ok I guess your right! thanks!
I got 2 more questions.
1. Is this LED supposed to be like this in the picture?
What purpose does the square (GND) has where the red arrow are pointing at.
I hope you understand what I mean...
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/4651/dsc043511.jpg
2. Can I connect this adaptor or will the amp take damage?
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2401/imag0447.jpg
I guess I need a heat sink for a full load with all the speakers, right?
I got 2 more questions.
1. Is this LED supposed to be like this in the picture?
What purpose does the square (GND) has where the red arrow are pointing at.
I hope you understand what I mean...
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/4651/dsc043511.jpg
2. Can I connect this adaptor or will the amp take damage?
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2401/imag0447.jpg
I guess I need a heat sink for a full load with all the speakers, right?
1. It's to place a screw terminal for power in like those used for the speakers, or soldering directly.
2. No, but that adaptor is far from powerful enough. You need at least a 3A adaptor and preferably 5A adaptor. That's because even though average consumption is only around 350mA, peak output can easily exceed 10 times that.
It's always good to be on the safe side but the first year I went with it to Roskilde I didn't have a heat sink on it at all, and it ran fine. But that being 2007, and it being quite cold compared to recent years, I guess that's part of the reason. Another reason was probably that I the first year hadn't optimized the feedback resistor for ultra low input so it probably only ran at half maximum power at the most.
Okay I understand, thank you!
I think I have some old heat sink that I used to my computer so I will go with that then.
What batteries do you recommend?
Here is a link that came up earlier in this thread, BatterySpace.com/AA Portable Power Corp. Tel: 510-525-2328 - Powerizer Battery Official Site
A link to where the subject was described and discussed earlier:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-40.html#post1878867
cheers have been looking through the 240 page thread for a couple of hours now
Hi togehter,
Some days ago I build my first self-designed boombox using some chassis and amp laying around for some years. It's 40x40x90cm, around 90l volume, 1x bass chassis (VXT 124, 12"), two midrange speakers (VXT 54) and two tweeters (also cheap crap). I used 19mm MDF for the box, it's pretty heavy now ;-)
Attached two (bad quality) pictures of the box.
As the first box now is definitive too heavy I'm into planning my second generation boombox and found this fantastic thread.
I've build it mainly for two reasons: First to use it inside a gym (3 fields, so quite big) for warmup, so should not make a disco in the gym but be reasonably loud. Second application would be outdoor use in summer to sound some beachvolleyball courts (background music, no big event music) or smaller party events.
So after some hours reading through this really long thread, the following idea came to my mind (didn't read something like this so far):
What, if I build up two half Boominators, each with 1x 7AH SLN battery, a AMP6 amplifier (or maybe 1 AMP9 with the new external subwoofer option) and design a kind of coupling mechanism to mechanicaly combine these thwo "half" Boominators so that I have these configuration options:
Ultra-mobile: Only one half Boominator with pure battery operation (for beachcourts, not sooo loud)
Normal: both half Boominators combined to one full Boominator (with switching power supply and battery loader included for still mobile operation with connection to mains.
Option: Maybe with the new AMP9 design it would be possible to add an additional subwoofer box?
Does that make sense to you?
BTW: What is the up to date choice for the piezos/tweeters?
Some days ago I build my first self-designed boombox using some chassis and amp laying around for some years. It's 40x40x90cm, around 90l volume, 1x bass chassis (VXT 124, 12"), two midrange speakers (VXT 54) and two tweeters (also cheap crap). I used 19mm MDF for the box, it's pretty heavy now ;-)
Attached two (bad quality) pictures of the box.
As the first box now is definitive too heavy I'm into planning my second generation boombox and found this fantastic thread.
I've build it mainly for two reasons: First to use it inside a gym (3 fields, so quite big) for warmup, so should not make a disco in the gym but be reasonably loud. Second application would be outdoor use in summer to sound some beachvolleyball courts (background music, no big event music) or smaller party events.
So after some hours reading through this really long thread, the following idea came to my mind (didn't read something like this so far):
What, if I build up two half Boominators, each with 1x 7AH SLN battery, a AMP6 amplifier (or maybe 1 AMP9 with the new external subwoofer option) and design a kind of coupling mechanism to mechanicaly combine these thwo "half" Boominators so that I have these configuration options:
Ultra-mobile: Only one half Boominator with pure battery operation (for beachcourts, not sooo loud)
Normal: both half Boominators combined to one full Boominator (with switching power supply and battery loader included for still mobile operation with connection to mains.
Option: Maybe with the new AMP9 design it would be possible to add an additional subwoofer box?
Does that make sense to you?
BTW: What is the up to date choice for the piezos/tweeters?
