The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

So we have the AMP6 Basic and the G111 case from Brinck as recommended, but they just don't think like I have seen here, the holes just doesn't fit.

Here is 2 pictures:
http://www.myupload.dk/showfile/931620a09bd.JPG/
http://www.myupload.dk/showfile/931622a09bd.JPG/

Any idea why it's not like other people here? Both should have been bought from same stores. The box is measured at 115x65x55mm

Last thing we need on our build, so quite annoying :-/

The amp is not built to match the holes. You have 2 options:

The latter gives the best cooling as the chip will be fastened directly to the casing wall.
 
I still have one question unanswered: It's mentioned that charging the batteries should be done with good ventilation. Is it safe with an almost closed box to charge the batteries with the 5,2 W solar cells.

Should I drill some ventilation holes? I see that Phaedras hasn't got any.

Hope this is not stupid, but I would rather as one time too many than having my stereo blow up.
 
I still have one question unanswered: It's mentioned that charging the batteries should be done with good ventilation. Is it safe with an almost closed box to charge the batteries with the 5,2 W solar cells.

Should I drill some ventilation holes? I see that Phaedras hasn't got any.

Hope this is not stupid, but I would rather as one time too many than having my stereo blow up.

Actually, I do.. Beneath the lid of the electronics compartment there's a 3-4mm gap on both sides to prevent gas build up inside the cabinet when charging.. I havent had any problems with batteries getting hot or anthing yet, even though it has been charging outside all day long on several occasions..

Why not make 2-3 1x5cm vents on each side of the electronics compartment with a router.. If you clean them up with a nice profile, it could look really cool.. Thats what i almost did with mine and might do if i'm rebuilding or adding something to mine :)
 
Clever thought! I see it now on the pictures. I guess you made a good job making them invisible. But I think I will be making some holes in the side with my 25mm "spadebor" I used for the mounting of the 12V cigaradapter, and then round them over with the router. That could actually look quite nice. :)

The reason why I wanted the closed look was to hide eventual wires hanging out and protect the electronics from moist/beer and beer spilling.

But I guess it's more important to keep me and everyone else safe.
 
Actually, I do.. Beneath the lid of the electronics compartment there's a 3-4mm gap on both sides to prevent gas build up inside the cabinet when charging.. I havent had any problems with batteries getting hot or anthing yet, even though it has been charging outside all day long on several occasions..

Why not make 2-3 1x5cm vents on each side of the electronics compartment with a router.. If you clean them up with a nice profile, it could look really cool.. Thats what i almost did with mine and might do if i'm rebuilding or adding something to mine :)

Then you're basically back to the original design with the 60mm holes. Note, you can't see it on the pictures but after the pictures was taken a 60mm fan grall was actually installed in each of those air vent/cable connect holes.
 
Clever thought! I see it now on the pictures. I guess you made a good job making them invisible. But I think I will be making some holes in the side with my 25mm "spadebor" I used for the mounting of the 12V cigaradapter, and then round them over with the router. That could actually look quite nice. :)

The reason why I wanted the closed look was to hide eventual wires hanging out and protect the electronics from moist/beer and beer spilling.

But I guess it's more important to keep me and everyone else safe.

If you route out a few vents, go to a fabric shop and buy some speaker cloth and glue it to the inside.. That way it will catch beer sprays and it wont be possible to see wires or anything inside :)
 
If you route out a few vents, go to a fabric shop and buy some speaker cloth and glue it to the inside.. That way it will catch beer sprays and it wont be possible to see wires or anything inside :)

Actually I like that. You just have to take extra care in mounting the wires, and use good quality cables everywhere. And proper gold plated contacts, then it looks amazing when you can see the wires.
 
Actually I like that. You just have to take extra care in mounting the wires, and use good quality cables everywhere. And proper gold plated contacts, then it looks amazing when you can see the wires.

Yea, I like that aswell, but in this case I doubt Ruben wants to go cable aficionado 8 days before the festival :)

I actually played with the thought of building the boominator in 12mm acryl and installing LED lighting inside and use nice wiring to show off the insides. But came to the conclusion that it was probably a bit too flexible and definately too expensive for me :)

Maybe next year ;)
 
Yea, I like that aswell, but in this case I doubt Ruben wants to go cable aficionado 8 days before the festival :)

I actually played with the thought of building the boominator in 12mm acryl and installing LED lighting inside and use nice wiring to show off the insides. But came to the conclusion that it was probably a bit too flexible and definately too expensive for me :)

Maybe next year ;)

I have also played with the thought. 12mm acryl or really polycarbonate is superior to plywood in sonic properties, it's much much stiffer, but it's also much much heavier and would cost something like DKK4000-5000 for enough to build one Boominator.

If I ever do it, it will be with signature driver as those p.audio sn II series are really really beautiful drivers and a shame to hide inside a cabinet.
 
I am about to "glue" the solar panels on the top of the Boominator now. I was thinking of using some waterbased, acrylic "fugemasse" that I have laying around. It does not say if there is any "opløsnigsmidler" in it that could possibly damage the solar panels. Do you guys think that it would be safe to use that?
 
Last edited:
I am about to "glue" the solar panels on the top of the Boominator now. I was thinking of using some waterbased, acrylic "fugemasse" that I have laying around. It does not say if there is any "opløsnigsmidler" in it that could possibly damage the solar panels. Do you guys think that it would be safe to use that?

Nevermind this, I found the sealant on the website and it says "non-corrosive".
 
@Wubbaz. Ty for the reply :) I dont know if i got this right. I got the Lepai lp-2020 a+ that have Output Power 2 x 20W @ 4Ω. 40W/12V=3,33A and add 25%= 4,16A. Should i go with STANDARD-FLACHSICHERUNG 7,5 A i Conrad online shop then to be on the safe side? Oh forgot, i have a 12v cigarette thingie to for charging stuff. But what power that drains i have no clue. But then im no good at math, so its probably totally wrong :p
 
Last edited:
@Wubbaz. Ty for the reply :) I dont know if i got this right. I got the Lepai lp-2020 a+ that have Output Power 2 x 20W @ 4Ω. 40W/12V=3,33A and add 25%= 4,16A. Should i go with STANDARD-FLACHSICHERUNG 7,5 A i Conrad online shop then to be on the safe side? But then im no good at math, so its probably totally wrong :p

That should do the trick. You could still go with a 10 or 15 A fuse, it will blow in any case :) If you really wanna be on the safe side :p
 
I bought 4 copies of the KSN1005A from www.discoworld.dk. I just recieved them today, so I haven't been able to try them out yet. They look fine though, so I guess they will also sound that way. :)

Edit: This one | IMG Stage Line 110470 |Piezohorn MPT-001 Hjttaler-enheder Piezo Diskanter

Thanks. How much difference are there between the different tweeters ? I see that this one is popular as well QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning.