The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

Oh sorry my mistake about the woofer.Having the woofer and the tweeter would cover a frenquency range of 50-40 000Hz am I right?

With 1 12V 7,2Ah battery, how long would it be able to power the system (2 woofers, 2 tweeters, 1 amp)?

Would still appreciate help whether I should put all elements on 1 side or split them.
 
What is the main reason for mounting the woofers on the inside of the box?
We have already established that the woofers wont be glued together with the new woofer dimensions, but rather glued to the middle brace to compensate for the lacking "9"mm.

Is the main reason the increased stability of the baffles or the physical protection they get or a combo? Or maybe some other reason all together?
 
By the way, I got the woofers and the solar panel today.
The woofers all work, just checked using one of my trends audio TA-10.1 amps to get a feeling of the sound output.

I have some questions regarding need for regulator or not.
The Sunlinq foldable 12w panel I have now has a max output of around 8-900mAh and Im planning on using the recommended 2x7,4Ah batteries in paralell. Do you think a regulator is needed or would it be possible to skip it?
The reason Im thinking about skipping it is to have a 12v cigarette female connector in the front or on the top of the boominator and charge the batteries through that connection with the external solar panel. And when Im not charging I could use the connector to charge the mobile phone or mp3 player that is playing.
 
I mean mounting them from the back of the baffle ofc, instead of "normal" mounting with woofer and grill screws from the front of the baffle.

The only reason speakers are normally mounted on the front in production speakers is that it's much cheaper to do so. Acoustically practically every speaker sounds better when mounted on the back of the baffle instead. It also looks far better.

In my personal opinion you wouldn't need a charge controller for this use.
 
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Woofers playing, batteries bought, 12v female connector for panel mounting bought. Charging the batteries 1 by 1 now to max before i connect them. Ill give them another hit once connected in parallel.

I decided to go with 3 batteries after all, original plan was 2 but I don't want to have to rely on the weather for this years Roskilde.
 

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I'm thinking of possibly building a smaller version of "boominator" with 4 of these 6.5" drivers, mounted back-to-back:
HIFI KIT ELECTRONIC AB - Högtalarelement HiFi Hembio Billjud/Marin Studio PA/DJ Kablage Tillbehör

I'm using a website where it can calculate whether the box should be sealed or ported, however for that I need Fs and Qes of the driver, which Qes is not provided on the website. Is it extremely important that the drivers are put in the correct box, or is it alright to put these drivers in a ported box? Although, to calculate the port I will need additional information which is it provided on the website, is it safe to hope that the driver details will be provided in the package when bought?
 
Hi Saturnus I've got a question:

When wiring the drivers, you've connected 2 woofers and 1 tweeter in parallel with a 150 ohm resistor in series between woofer and tweeter, is it to reach 4 ohm impedance?
R = 1/(1/8+1/8+1/158) = 3.9 ohm

Assuming only 1 woofer and 1 tweeter will be used, is the resistor still necessary, since these 2 drivers in parallel will add up to 4 ohm imp? Or does the resistor serve a higher purpose?

Thanks
 
No, that not how it's connected. It says on a previous page how it's connected.

The series resistor serves 2 purposes:

- installed like this with the correct piezo it forms a high-pass filter at around 3.5KHz
- installed like this with the correct piezo it forms an impedance correction on the woofers

This is to achieve better sound quality and make the system an even easier load on the amp.
 
Btw, I've been told some of you might have trouble fitting 3 batteries on top of each, and that's true not all batteries are suited. The height of the battery case has to be max 94mm, and then you hammer the terminals flat after soldering on the wire and before stacking them on top of eachother. Then you have to use the hole designed for the purpose in the bottom. And fixation of the batteries is then simply done by a washer and screw on the bottom (actually 4 of them to hold the weight).
 
Hey guys

Easter is almost done and I feel i've been very productive in the last week.. I would like to thank Saturnus again again for giving such great advice and being a true inspiration! Lets meet up at Roskilde, so you can get a couple of beers! :D

Anyways, here is the results of this weeks work.. I've made a temporary lid for the electronics compartment as I didnt have materials to make a proper one as the shops are closed, it will be changed.. I also used my old tweeters temporarily until the new tweeters from ebay arrive, hopefully soonish!

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Saturnus said:
Very professional build. Congratulations.

A little shame the dimensions are tweaked a bit, in my mind it screws up proportions a little from the strict triple-cube design.

So hows the sound compared to your previous build?

Thanks! :) Actually the dimensions are not tweaked too much.. Its roughly 29,6x31,5x90cm now..

The sound is somewhat improved.. Especially the kick in the bass is far better now that the cabinet is more rigid and i dont have a removable lid.. I didnt think it would matter too much, but the difference is quite noticeable..

Could we make a Boominator facebook group or something so we can arrange a meetup at Roskilde this year? Could be fun :)

Nice job Phaedras.
Been working on my own boominator this easter and got all the parts cut out. So its assembly time soon.

One question:

What solar panels are you using? The panels i looked at are to long and wide to fit the boominator with the aluminum bezel around in the edge. (one i looked at was this one:KeryChip WEBSHOP - solceller, solcelleanlæg, tilbehør)

Thanks :)

Im using panels from Electrozone.dk.. Its 8v and 5.2w but when serial connected they are perfect..