No, I reverse engineered the new tuning frequency from the original port size which is 34cm2* (or 6.58cmØ) and 36mm length. Which means I plotted in the size and then adjusted tuning frequency until it matched the port.
*Maybe I should note that the port is 3x12cm but with 3cmØ rounding in both ends, so the resulting calculation is 3cmØ area plus 9x3cm, or 7,07cm2 + 27cm2 = 34cm2
That was fast. I didn't even order mine (and Wilcken's) yet.
Last edited:
Wow, that was fast.. I'm glad I ordered immediately when Saturnus posted that they had come up.. My tracking says they are somewhere over the atlantic!
Ahh okay, i'm going with my current calculations.. Don't want to recalculate it again
Ahh okay, i'm going with my current calculations.. Don't want to recalculate it again
Exactly. Just blind luck I guess but if the cabinet size and the port size is identical to the original then the resulting response graph is pretty much identical as well. So no need to change anything.
Aah! I think I'm getting a hang of WinISD now.
Meanwhile I've been looking at some ports online and found a really cheap one 7,5 cm (cross area 44,2 cm2). I put this WinISD and it calculates 5,63 cm port length. There should be no problem in using this instead, right? It's still the same tuning 69,8 hz. I'll just have to cut the port exactly 5,63 cm
I'm building half a boominator for another camp and they are on a tight budget, so this port is appealing.
Meanwhile I've been looking at some ports online and found a really cheap one 7,5 cm (cross area 44,2 cm2). I put this WinISD and it calculates 5,63 cm port length. There should be no problem in using this instead, right? It's still the same tuning 69,8 hz. I'll just have to cut the port exactly 5,63 cm
I'm building half a boominator for another camp and they are on a tight budget, so this port is appealing.
I made these cutting instructions for my local hardware store to minimize the risk of something going wrong due to a missunderstanding.
Maybe someone else will find it useful.
In total there are 19 cuts, some stores in Sweden charge by the cut (instead of for time). This means that the cuts would be 190:- at some places (10:-/cut) and 380:- at others (20:-/cut). Some cash to be saved for us cost aware builders ; )
Maybe someone else will find it useful.
In total there are 19 cuts, some stores in Sweden charge by the cut (instead of for time). This means that the cuts would be 190:- at some places (10:-/cut) and 380:- at others (20:-/cut). Some cash to be saved for us cost aware builders ; )
Attachments
Neat. Though you should note that it's not the most effective cutting you have described. Generally vertical cuts are done first (on a vertical saw). So you should change cutting 2 and 3 around so that no resetting is needed as some places charge but for cuts and saw resettings.
Also a board is 1220x2440mm.
I used to work as a CNC programmer in the woodworking industry btw.
Updated the order of the cuts and removed the size of the board, Ive seen different sizes from different stores, 1200x2400, 1200x2500, 1220x2440. It really doesnt matter which size, the cuts will work on any of these sizes.
Suitable scale when printing on a A4 is 30%.
Suitable scale when printing on a A4 is 30%.
Attachments
Last edited:
I also got a reply from the ebay seller stating that the tweeters were sould out and it would take several weeks to get new ones. He asked if I wanted a refund or wanted to wait.
I replied that I could wait, but I never got an answer from him.
My main concern is not receiving the tweeters in time to finish the boominator before this years Roskildefestival.
I replied that I could wait, but I never got an answer from him.
My main concern is not receiving the tweeters in time to finish the boominator before this years Roskildefestival.
I don't have a link to the product.. Bought it in Jem og Fix and they don't have the product on their website.. However, its says that the products is: "Elastisk, opløsningsmiddelfri fugemasse" on it, so i reckon that'd be okay?
Some more questions have popped up.
I have not been able to find a gallery where you can see how the woofers and grills are attached to the baffles.
1. How do you make the grill+woofer combo airtight when attaching both from the inside? Sealing gasket (tätningslist) between both the grill/baffle and the grill/woofer?
2. Do you drill holes in the grill where the holes on the woofer is?
3. If screws are used from the inside how do you reach the bottom ones once the box is constructed? Do you have to attach the woofers to the baffles before assembling the box?
4. Why is there only 1 additional plywood layer on the inside of the bass ports in the google sketchup drawing when the cutting plan specify 4 pieces (2 on each side resulting in 3x12mm=36 mm depth of the ports). Im guessing the sketchup drawing is incorrect and the correct depth is 36mm (3 layers, 1 side + 2 extra).
If someone who has constructed a boominator could go over the build procedure in the best possible step by step order that would be of great help. I have a bad habit of doing things in the wrong order resulting in greater difficulty than whats needed.
I have not been able to find a gallery where you can see how the woofers and grills are attached to the baffles.
1. How do you make the grill+woofer combo airtight when attaching both from the inside? Sealing gasket (tätningslist) between both the grill/baffle and the grill/woofer?
2. Do you drill holes in the grill where the holes on the woofer is?
3. If screws are used from the inside how do you reach the bottom ones once the box is constructed? Do you have to attach the woofers to the baffles before assembling the box?
4. Why is there only 1 additional plywood layer on the inside of the bass ports in the google sketchup drawing when the cutting plan specify 4 pieces (2 on each side resulting in 3x12mm=36 mm depth of the ports). Im guessing the sketchup drawing is incorrect and the correct depth is 36mm (3 layers, 1 side + 2 extra).
If someone who has constructed a boominator could go over the build procedure in the best possible step by step order that would be of great help. I have a bad habit of doing things in the wrong order resulting in greater difficulty than whats needed.
Last edited:
Some more questions have popped up.
I have not been able to find a gallery where you can see how the woofers and grills are attached to the baffles.
1. How do you make the grill+woofer combo airtight when attaching both from the inside? Sealing gasket (tätningslist) between both the grill/baffle and the grill/woofer?
The front of the woofer has a foam sealing gasket and most grills are made with a rubber gasket around the edge.. When its tightened it will be air tight.
2. Do you drill holes in the grill where the holes on the woofer is?
Most grills are ofc filled with holes, its not so hard to get it to fit.
3. If screws are used from the inside how do you reach the bottom ones once the box is constructed? Do you have to attach the woofers to the baffles before assembling the box?
I mounted the speakers on the side baffles before assembling the cabinet, then assembled the bottom and glued the woofers together and then mounted the sides, then assembled the centerbraces with the braces to make the centercompartment and then mounted those in the speaker compartments.. I made the centerbrace a wee bit different as I made is so I could assemble it after the woofers was mounted..
4. Why is there only 1 additional plywood layer on the inside of the bass ports in the google sketchup drawing when the cutting plan specify 4 pieces (2 on each side resulting in 3x12mm=36 mm depth of the ports). Im guessing the sketchup drawing is incorrect and the correct depth is 36mm (3 layers, 1 side + 2 extra).
Don't know about this part as I used regular round ports
If someone who has constructed a boominator could go over the build procedure in the best possible step by step order that would be of great help. I have a bad habit of doing things in the wrong order resulting in greater difficulty than whats needed.
Did it make any sense? Thats just the way I did it, however I did it a bit different than Saturnus and probably others
Hi, first of all I'm amazed to see these projects and homemade boxes. This easter I'm planning to build my very first "boominator", though I havn't thought about building such a big one as the TS. Got linked here from another site so havn't read through all the pages, but got some questions before i start off with the building. And please mind, I'm a newbie so I may be ask stupid questions hehe.
1. In Saturnus' recommended parts, P.audio HP-10W was suggested as woofers. I googled this speaker and it turned out to be a so called broadband 'speaker'. What exactly does broadband speaker mean? Is it a 'speaker' able to play low, mid and high freq?
2. Tweeters are also used, what are these for? Is it to be able to reach the higher frequencies?
3. If I've understood it correctly, 4 woofers and 4 tweeters are used in these builds, 2 on each side. The woofers however are mounted back to back, is there anything in between? Will the woofers not affect eachother?
For my project, I'm planning to use Amp-6 Basic and then choose components based on the amplifier. It will also not be as big as the presented builds, I want it to be fairly light so it can be carried around without too much trouble.Instead, I thought of using 2 woofers and 2 tweeters, not sure whether I should have them on one side or split them to 2 sides? What would give the best sound?
These are the components I'm planning to use:
Woofer: P.audio HP-10T
P.audio HP-10T - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Tweeter: QLM-1005
QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Amplifier: Amp-6 Basic
41Hz Audio:AMP6-BASIC Assembled
Battery: 12V battery, not sure how much Ah is needed, but the more Ah the longer the battery will last I assume?
Please tell me if I should change something with this setup and build I'm planning to make. Appreciate all kind of help, thanks!
1. In Saturnus' recommended parts, P.audio HP-10W was suggested as woofers. I googled this speaker and it turned out to be a so called broadband 'speaker'. What exactly does broadband speaker mean? Is it a 'speaker' able to play low, mid and high freq?
2. Tweeters are also used, what are these for? Is it to be able to reach the higher frequencies?
3. If I've understood it correctly, 4 woofers and 4 tweeters are used in these builds, 2 on each side. The woofers however are mounted back to back, is there anything in between? Will the woofers not affect eachother?
For my project, I'm planning to use Amp-6 Basic and then choose components based on the amplifier. It will also not be as big as the presented builds, I want it to be fairly light so it can be carried around without too much trouble.Instead, I thought of using 2 woofers and 2 tweeters, not sure whether I should have them on one side or split them to 2 sides? What would give the best sound?
These are the components I'm planning to use:
Woofer: P.audio HP-10T
P.audio HP-10T - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Tweeter: QLM-1005
QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Amplifier: Amp-6 Basic
41Hz Audio:AMP6-BASIC Assembled
Battery: 12V battery, not sure how much Ah is needed, but the more Ah the longer the battery will last I assume?
Please tell me if I should change something with this setup and build I'm planning to make. Appreciate all kind of help, thanks!
I'll only address what Phaedras haven't already answered.
Please note that the sketchup drawing does say in the description that it's not 100% accurate. There are some things left up for interpretation on the builders side.
It's also a point that last piece of the port/handle could have varying length. If for example you use this bit to cut out guides for the brace mounting then it will be around 140mm long leaving only 10mm on both sides, this will make it harder to do the roundover routing on the inside though, so if you don't then it should be 160-180mm long to make sure you have more than enough area for the roundover routing.
Likewise, the piezo cutout will depend on the piezo used, and if you mount it from the back or from the front.
I didn't have time this weekend to make a new, let's call it mark III, sketchup drawing but I'll make it one of the coming days.
My recommendation on the building order is that you finish all the separate parts first. Then mount all the drivers on the baffles and test them again (you should naturally have tested them when you received them to make sure you don't have to send them back). Then assemble the "base" which means top/bottom, electronics compartment, center braces, and ends with finished port/handles. Then mount the baffles. Connect the electronics. Done.
That's the simplified version but as Phaedras already said there are several ways to do this so a set order or building description is not presented before I make a pdf version of it.
Please note that the sketchup drawing does say in the description that it's not 100% accurate. There are some things left up for interpretation on the builders side.
It's also a point that last piece of the port/handle could have varying length. If for example you use this bit to cut out guides for the brace mounting then it will be around 140mm long leaving only 10mm on both sides, this will make it harder to do the roundover routing on the inside though, so if you don't then it should be 160-180mm long to make sure you have more than enough area for the roundover routing.
Likewise, the piezo cutout will depend on the piezo used, and if you mount it from the back or from the front.
I didn't have time this weekend to make a new, let's call it mark III, sketchup drawing but I'll make it one of the coming days.
My recommendation on the building order is that you finish all the separate parts first. Then mount all the drivers on the baffles and test them again (you should naturally have tested them when you received them to make sure you don't have to send them back). Then assemble the "base" which means top/bottom, electronics compartment, center braces, and ends with finished port/handles. Then mount the baffles. Connect the electronics. Done.
That's the simplified version but as Phaedras already said there are several ways to do this so a set order or building description is not presented before I make a pdf version of it.
BTW, i've decided to go with this product for mounting the solar panels.. It was a bit on the expensive side, but had all the right specifications..
http://tec7.dk/produkt-sortiment/produkter/tec-7.aspx
http://tec7.dk/produkt-sortiment/produkter/tec-7.aspx
Hi, first of all I'm amazed to see these projects and homemade boxes. This easter I'm planning to build my very first "boominator", though I havn't thought about building such a big one as the TS. Got linked here from another site so havn't read through all the pages, but got some questions before i start off with the building. And please mind, I'm a newbie so I may be ask stupid questions hehe.
1. In Saturnus' recommended parts, P.audio HP-10W was suggested as woofers. I googled this speaker and it turned out to be a so called broadband 'speaker'. What exactly does broadband speaker mean? Is it a 'speaker' able to play low, mid and high freq?
The speaker you've linked to further down is the HP10T which is a fullrange speaker.. The HP10w is a bass/mid woofer.. It plays frequencies up to around ~5khz..
2. Tweeters are also used, what are these for? Is it to be able to reach the higher frequencies?
Correct.
3. If I've understood it correctly, 4 woofers and 4 tweeters are used in these builds, 2 on each side. The woofers however are mounted back to back, is there anything in between? Will the woofers not affect eachother?
The woofers are actually glued together. This has 2 main advantages. 1. it makes the cabinet very rigid. 2. There is a increase of ½db per driver in sensitivity - thereby making it play louder
For my project, I'm planning to use Amp-6 Basic and then choose components based on the amplifier. It will also not be as big as the presented builds, I want it to be fairly light so it can be carried around without too much trouble.Instead, I thought of using 2 woofers and 2 tweeters, not sure whether I should have them on one side or split them to 2 sides? What would give the best sound?
Ill leave Saturnus to do further recommendations as i'm not sure which would be the best pick
These are the components I'm planning to use:
Woofer: P.audio HP-10T
P.audio HP-10T - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
The speakers used in the Boominator: http://www.ljudia.se/hogtalarelement-s82124/bas-s97514/10-tum-c96816/paudio-hp-10w-p78414/
Tweeter: QLM-1005
QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Amplifier: Amp-6 Basic
41Hz Audio:AMP6-BASIC Assembled
Battery: 12V battery, not sure how much Ah is needed, but the more Ah the longer the battery will last I assume?
Most use around 2-3 x 7.2Ah batteries as they fit in the center compartment of the Boominator.. However, you can use whatever battery size you like
Please tell me if I should change something with this setup and build I'm planning to make. Appreciate all kind of help, thanks!
Hope that helped - and lightened Saturnus' Q/A amount