Sorry - didn't see the previous post you made. Thanks though. I think that's a very good idea also. I also had trouble with getting them to fit. Actually I think I'll maybe use Darkwithin's idea using some of those wood plug-things to keep the middle brace in place.
Which kind of glue would you suggest between the middle brace and the magnet then?
The same as with the magnet to magnets.
J-B Weld Company - J-B WELD Product Information
or similar.
Just follow the instructions.
With all the discussion about the center bracing.. I was wondering, would it matter if it was made different? Like e.g:
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Its just a principal drawing, but would it affect port loading in any way?
Rubenn, FYI; You should start to use Winisd for all those tuning questions
hehe..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Its just a principal drawing, but would it affect port loading in any way?
Rubenn, FYI; You should start to use Winisd for all those tuning questions
hehe..
Yea, I realise that the bracing will be a little weaker, however its somewhat better than no bracing at all.. I just got my plywood cut yesterday and planning on beginning construction this weekend and start of next week..
Its my second Boominator and i've recalculated the entire thing as I was annoyed that the length of my old version was too long (110cm) now i'm going for 90cm.. Its a wee bit thinner because of the changed design of the HP10w's but i made it a bit higher and the center compartment a little bit bigger so that i can fit more electronics and its height will be a bit more comfortable imo
Anyways, what i'm trying out with my version.. I ordered a small preamp from an extremely pleasant and polite guy from Canada.. He' an electrical engineer and makes them by hand and even takes a picture of every amp he makes and registers every amp.. I just recieved it a few days ago and the quality is very very nice.. I tested it out with a line out signal from my iPod nano 4G and the sound was not vastly, but somewhat improved - especially the kick in the bass and the higher frequencies are better.. Ill let you know how it works in my version 2.
I also scoured the internet for solar panels that wasnt REALLY expensive and fit the size I wanted. Instead of a large full size amorphous panel I found the perfect panel imo. Its this: Solar Cell Huge - All you need to prototype
I just recieved it today and i went outside to measure it.. Both the panels i got measures at exactly 10v open circuit and when pointed 90degrees 1 measures 650mA and the other 645mA which is perfect.. When tilted and the sun was at a 45 degrees angle i measured upwhat of 450-550mA and even at a 25 degree angle i got more than 350mA.. Its 3mm thick(thin) with an epoxy coating and hard metal back.. The build quality is VERY nice and I cant wait to fit them on the Boominator.. Its also 18x22cm in size so quite small
Just a tip or two
Yea, thats what I thought.. They feel very sturdy and when mounted on the top i'm not gonna be worried at all if someone sits on them..
By the way, the preamp i'm going to use is called: PA2V2 and the guy who makes them is called Gary.. It outputs around 210mW instead of my iPod's 20-25mW so its an improvement on the input for the Amp6basic.. I considered just changing the resistors on the Amp as you've mentioned a few times Saturnus to adjust the gain, but decided that improving the input instead was to be favored for me.. I picked the pocketamp as I maybe want to use it as a headphone amp aswell.. It runs off 2xAA batteries.. There's a version running off of 12v called Amplirider which will probably be better if its to be mounted permanently in the Boombox
You guys who managed to order the tweeters from here:
HORN BUBBLE TWEETERS 3.5" 10 PACK PIEZO PA DJ (NTX3711) | eBay
How did you do it?
ebay wont even let me order since my account is Swedish and the seller wont send outside the US.
I have a friend in the US who could send them to me if I could just add his address as the shipping address, but thats hard when I cant even order : )
HORN BUBBLE TWEETERS 3.5" 10 PACK PIEZO PA DJ (NTX3711) | eBay
How did you do it?
ebay wont even let me order since my account is Swedish and the seller wont send outside the US.
I have a friend in the US who could send them to me if I could just add his address as the shipping address, but thats hard when I cant even order : )
I used Shopusa.com.. I haven't received the tweeters yet, but i got a notification that shopusa.com has them and are sending them today or tomorrow.. So I should get them next week..
If you can't order, make a new ebay account with your friends US address..
Btw, they do scratch pretty easy though but all you do is heat them with a hot air gun and the scratch. No matter how deep. Will disappear.
When using WinISD Pro for calculating the boominator I do the following:
1. I create the P. Audio HP-10W and put in the speaker specs according to this tutorial page.
2. I create a new project with the HP-10W and choose 2 drivers in one vented cabinet.
3. WinISD automatically spits out a box volume of 114.47 litres and a tuning of 47.25 hz.
4. I click on "Advanced" below the tuning, and change the Ql for Rear Chamber from 10 to 1 (Am I going to change anything else than this? There is Qa and Qp)
5. There's no automatic calculation after this action in the tuning or volume areas, so I change the tuning to 82 hz and the volume to 24.4 litres.
6. I click the "Vents" tab and see that the went is a tube/round. I change the vent diameter to 6.8 cm as recommended and vent length is then calculated to 1.65 cm with a vent cross area of 36.3 cm2 (I don't understand what "End Correction" is for).
7. I go back to the "Box" tab and the tuning has changed slightly to 81.97 hz and when I look at the frequency model, it looks like this:
So - Is this correctly done? Sorry if this is a stupid question. It just seems like there's a rise of almost 1 dB around 250 hz. Thanks in advance!!!
1. I create the P. Audio HP-10W and put in the speaker specs according to this tutorial page.
2. I create a new project with the HP-10W and choose 2 drivers in one vented cabinet.
3. WinISD automatically spits out a box volume of 114.47 litres and a tuning of 47.25 hz.
4. I click on "Advanced" below the tuning, and change the Ql for Rear Chamber from 10 to 1 (Am I going to change anything else than this? There is Qa and Qp)
5. There's no automatic calculation after this action in the tuning or volume areas, so I change the tuning to 82 hz and the volume to 24.4 litres.
6. I click the "Vents" tab and see that the went is a tube/round. I change the vent diameter to 6.8 cm as recommended and vent length is then calculated to 1.65 cm with a vent cross area of 36.3 cm2 (I don't understand what "End Correction" is for).
7. I go back to the "Box" tab and the tuning has changed slightly to 81.97 hz and when I look at the frequency model, it looks like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So - Is this correctly done? Sorry if this is a stupid question. It just seems like there's a rise of almost 1 dB around 250 hz. Thanks in advance!!!
You almost right. You must have plotted in some parameter incorrectly but with the new drivers the tuning is 69.8Hz in the same cabinet with the same port. End result is pretty much identical to the original though so it doesn't matter.
Please note that vent is in m, not cm so you have to plot in 0.0658m which results in 0.036m
Oh, and I too forgot something. Change Ql=7 to Ql=10 because the cabinet is more rigid and tight than a normal cabinet. Doesn't change that much but it should be done.
Please note that vent is in m, not cm so you have to plot in 0.0658m which results in 0.036m
Oh, and I too forgot something. Change Ql=7 to Ql=10 because the cabinet is more rigid and tight than a normal cabinet. Doesn't change that much but it should be done.
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Thats some Xmax you put in; 3m
How come you changed the tuning? I dont recollect you mentioning that before in any post
@Rubenn, if you click the small cm, m, in or similar next to the number you can change the input form.. Its easier than recalculating e.g 34mm to meters..
Thats some Xmax you put in; 3m
How come you changed the tuning? I dont recollect you mentioning that before in any post
I just noticed that with the Xmax. It's not a big deal though.
Actually I didn't recalculate it with the new parameters before now. Turns out it's pretty much identical with the same cabinet and the same port. Only the tuning frequency have move down to 69.8Hz, the peak and drop off frequency have moved up a bit (by 3 Hz each), and Q has increased slightly to 1.22.
Hmm, but with the changed tuning freq wouldn't the port have to be longer? I calculate it to be 7.1cm with a square port of 10,4x4,8cm.. Maybe im wrong?