1.
I actually based these calculations on your classic design. I'm not sure what you mean by the handle being 24 mm? I guess you mean 24 mm in thickness when 2x 12mm ply is glued to each other. Same with the port being 36 mm long - what do you mean here? Is this the depth of the port?
Since the speakers take up a bit more volume and the cabinet is a little bit bigger, I'll probably keep it as it is.
Actually, the stereo I made for my sister was all made out of 12 mm ply and the length/width (whatever you may call it) of the cabinet was actually adjusted to 393 mm. So that fit perfectly
2.
So you're saying that I should just go for making the internal volume 24,4 and add up the volumes of all what should be inside the cabinet itself (including the whole port)
3.
I hope I understand this right: If the port is a tube it should be 6,58 cm Ø and length of the tube 3,6 cm.
If it's square, it should just have an area of 34 square cm. Then I can fit whatever dimensions I like?
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The Lepai has 200mV input sensitivity. That's equal to an amp6b with 22K/82K Ohm Rin/Rfb which is 189mV to be exact.
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1.
I actually based these calculations on your classic design. I'm not sure what you mean by the handle being 24 mm? I guess you mean 24 mm in thickness when 2x 12mm ply is glued to each other. Same with the port being 36 mm long - what do you mean here? Is this the depth of the port?
Since the speakers take up a bit more volume and the cabinet is a little bit bigger, I'll probably keep it as it is.
Actually, the stereo I made for my sister was all made out of 12 mm ply and the length/width (whatever you may call it) of the cabinet was actually adjusted to 393 mm. So that fit perfectly
2.
So you're saying that I should just go for making the internal volume 24,4 and add up the volumes of all what should be inside the cabinet itself (including the whole port)
3.
I hope I understand this right: If the port is a tube it should be 6,58 cm Ø and length of the tube 3,6 cm.
If it's square, it should just have an area of 34 square cm. Then I can fit whatever dimensions I like?
1: Yes, I mean it when 2 pcs of ply is glued together for 24mm. With the end plate that makes the port/handle 36mm deep. Remember at least one of the 2 pieces of ply that makes up the port should go the entire length of the end piece to brace it.
2 and 3: Both correct.
I see, the thing is that Topping, Muse and several of the other more or less "noname" class T amplifiers on global.ebay.com have 200mV input sensitivity aswell. I thought the Lepai was a better option for additional reasons. Thanks for the clearification.
But Lepai is one of the cheapest ones so thats reason enough I guess.
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I am very interested in buying a detailed CAD drawing (or similar) aswell. Both to support you on the great work you have done so far and to be able to get a detailed drawing to hand over to the contruction supply store (Hornbach, Bauhaus or similar who cut their material for you at a reasonable cost) and have the main pieces cut up for me to get the precision needed and to save some work.
But Lepai is one of the cheapest ones so thats reason enough I guess.
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etc.
I am very interested in buying a detailed CAD drawing (or similar) aswell. Both to support you on the great work you have done so far and to be able to get a detailed drawing to hand over to the contruction supply store (Hornbach, Bauhaus or similar who cut their material for you at a reasonable cost) and have the main pieces cut up for me to get the precision needed and to save some work.
Any TA202x amp will basically be the same, so it's up to you if you want something cheap or something that has better components and or build quality. Just remember, as far as I know, only the amp6b in the recommended enclosure will actually fit inside as intended.
There's a link a few pages back to the sketchup model. Or just go into sketchup and search for boominator or saturnus.
Cutting plan is pretty simple.
- 12mm 9 ply birch plywood
- trim all edges
- direction of grain is always lengthwise expect center brace
- calculated blade is 4mm
- first cut (after trim) is 900mm
- 2nd and 3rd cut is 276mm
From 1st cut
2x 900x300mm (side baffles)
2x 900x276mm (top/bottom)
From 2nd cut
4x 276x276mm (ends/centers)
1x 276x66mm (top spacer)
From 3rd cut
2x 276x393mm (center braces)
4x 276x92mm (port/handle pcs)
There's a link a few pages back to the sketchup model. Or just go into sketchup and search for boominator or saturnus.
Cutting plan is pretty simple.
- 12mm 9 ply birch plywood
- trim all edges
- direction of grain is always lengthwise expect center brace
- calculated blade is 4mm
- first cut (after trim) is 900mm
- 2nd and 3rd cut is 276mm
From 1st cut
2x 900x300mm (side baffles)
2x 900x276mm (top/bottom)
From 2nd cut
4x 276x276mm (ends/centers)
1x 276x66mm (top spacer)
From 3rd cut
2x 276x393mm (center braces)
4x 276x92mm (port/handle pcs)
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It doesn't need a cross-over. At max a series or parallel resistor on the piezos but I'll have to receive the new version be certain what value, if any, is needed.
No, that's correct. You'll have to either fit a masonite or plexiglass 3-4mm plate behind the driver cut-out and use standard sealing gaskets, or find a wide enough sealing gasket.
Im sorry for the 100 questions, but what are the sealing gasket for?
And I assume the reason for these 3-4mm plates are to compansate for a "shorter" driver design which makes the combined driver "width" (when attached magnet to magnet) too short to fit perfectly between the inner walls of the boominator?
If so, is that the easiest way to approach this new problem?
Wouldnt it be easier to adjust the size of the box to match the new driver design?
Or will that cause any other problems?
Because I wouldnt want to make more perfectly round holes than absolutely needed, its not that much fun to use a router (överhandsfräs).
And I assume the reason for these 3-4mm plates are to compansate for a "shorter" driver design which makes the combined driver "width" (when attached magnet to magnet) too short to fit perfectly between the inner walls of the boominator?
If so, is that the easiest way to approach this new problem?
Wouldnt it be easier to adjust the size of the box to match the new driver design?
Or will that cause any other problems?
Because I wouldnt want to make more perfectly round holes than absolutely needed, its not that much fun to use a router (överhandsfräs).
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I generally use "självhäftande tätningslist" to airseal when building speakers, is that what you mean by the sealing gasket? I cant seem to find a correct English translation to the product but Im sure you know what i mean.
This stuff:
http://www.ljudia.se/tillbehor-s82136/dampmaterial-c79717/monteringstatning-p79723/
This stuff:
http://www.ljudia.se/tillbehor-s82136/dampmaterial-c79717/monteringstatning-p79723/
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I'm not going to redesign it. Live with it.
There's a way to avoid the entire problem though. Just avoid the magnet to magnet construction and glue the magnets directly on the center brace instead. You'll loose about 0.2-0.3dB in sensitivity but you don't have to match up a hole in the center brace perfectly with the magnets, and you retain all the other qualities.
EDIT: Actually, that was a very good idea. I'll implement it in the next version.
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Fair enough.
One last question (atleast for now).
In case a drivers gets damaged for some reason, is there any way to replace it?
It seems like when everything is in place it would be close to impossible to replace a driver, or do you only use screws and no glue on some sides to allow future access to the drivers??
One last question (atleast for now).
In case a drivers gets damaged for some reason, is there any way to replace it?
It seems like when everything is in place it would be close to impossible to replace a driver, or do you only use screws and no glue on some sides to allow future access to the drivers??
Also keep in mind (as far as I know) the TA2024 chip has the maximum output of 15 W in 4 ohm where as the TA2020 will have 20 W in 4 ohm. So the TA2020 amp will have higher output generally.
And if you're gonna change the design (as I intend to do) to be thinner (not as deep), then the internal volume should be the HP-10W depth twice. According to the datasheet i.e. 262,4 mm internal depth. This is 13,6 mm shorter compared to Saturnus original design (which is 27,6 mm).
And if you're gonna change the design (as I intend to do) to be thinner (not as deep), then the internal volume should be the HP-10W depth twice. According to the datasheet i.e. 262,4 mm internal depth. This is 13,6 mm shorter compared to Saturnus original design (which is 27,6 mm).
That's why I just realized it's much easier all the way around to just glue the magnets on the center brace instead and avoid most of the mounting problems.
That's what I'd do. I would not ditch the center brace as I think it's vital to keep the box as solid as possible.
I'll make an updated sketchup drawing over the weekend.
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