The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

I know this question has been asked before. When are the magnets supposed to pull towards each other? I tested it by placing one speaker on the table facing down and placed the other speaker on top of that facing up so the speakers touched. I peeled off the the label and cleaned the back of the magnet with some alcohol, but still the magnets are repelling each other. I tried turning on the amp and put some music on but it's not different (this was with one speaker on each channel).

Is there something I'm doing wrong or haven't done yet?
Thanks for replying so fast, Saturnus.
 
I know this question has been asked before. When are the magnets supposed to pull towards each other? I tested it by placing one speaker on the table facing down and placed the other speaker on top of that facing up so the speakers touched. I peeled off the the label and cleaned the back of the magnet with some alcohol, but still the magnets are repelling each other. I tried turning on the amp and put some music on but it's not different (this was with one speaker on each channel).

Is there something I'm doing wrong or haven't done yet?
Thanks for replying so fast, Saturnus.

I experienced the exact same thing.. The drivers wernt repelling each other very much, but there was definately no attraction between them..
 
I received my solar panel today. I actually bought one from 24volt.eu. Göran who owns the company had one left at his storage in the back apparently. Shipping was kind of expensive though but I still ended up paying a lot less thatn I would in Denmark.

Anyway. Regarding the mounting of the solar panel itself:

1. Can it be broken by drunk camp members if I remove the aluminium frame and glass cover and they maybe sit or stand on top of the solar cells?
2. Chances are that there is gonna be spilled beer and other stuff on it too. Is it then possible for the system to short circuit?
3. Is the panel itself glued onto the plywood? - If yes, which glue would be suitable for the task?

Thanks for the great feedback :D
 
Anyway. Regarding the mounting of the solar panel itself:

1. Can it be broken by drunk camp members if I remove the aluminium frame and glass cover and they maybe sit or stand on top of the solar cells?
2. Chances are that there is gonna be spilled beer and other stuff on it too. Is it then possible for the system to short circuit?
3. Is the panel itself glued onto the plywood? - If yes, which glue would be suitable for the task?

Thanks for the great feedback :D

If you got the amorphous panel. The glass itself is the panel and is made tempered glass. That doesn't mean it's unbreakable though. If you "glue" it to the plywood (primed beforehand) with a high elasticity plastic sealant (på dansk: elastisk byggefugemasse) then the sealant will absorb bumps and hits, and at the same time make it waterproof. You can naturally still smash it with a few good blows from a hammer directly on the panel. But the combination of plywood, elastic sealant and glass on top is really incredibly solid.

It's very important NOT to use silicone sealant (på dansk: silikonefugemasse) as these contains acids that will dissolve the silicone layer that is the actual solar cells on the glass.
 
If you got the amorphous panel. The glass itself is the panel and is made tempered glass. That doesn't mean it's unbreakable though. If you "glue" it to the plywood (primed beforehand) with a high elasticity plastic sealant (på dansk: elastisk byggefugemasse) then the sealant will absorb bumps and hits, and at the same time make it waterproof. You can naturally still smash it with a few good blows from a hammer directly on the panel. But the combination of plywood, elastic sealant and glass on top is really incredibly solid.

It's very important NOT to use silicone sealant (på dansk: silikonefugemasse) as these contains acids that will dissolve the silicone layer that is the actual solar cells on the glass.

Very useful information! It is the amorphous panel. It just looks like you removed the glass on the original boominator where the 4 solar panels you used at that time just where glued on top of the plywood.

Anyway. I would probably have to tell people not to dance and stand on it. How thick a layer of that elasticity plastic sealant should be between the panel and the ply? And do I smear it ALL over the surface?
 
Very useful information! It is the amorphous panel. It just looks like you removed the glass on the original boominator where the 4 solar panels you used at that time just where glued on top of the plywood.

Anyway. I would probably have to tell people not to dance and stand on it. How thick a layer of that elasticity plastic sealant should be between the panel and the ply? And do I smear it ALL over the surface?

Those on the original Boominator are CIGS panels with a glass fiber backing and encapsulated in polycarbonate (same material as a CD) developed for microsatelittes to be sent into orbit.

It should be ok that people occasionally stand or dance on it. What to look out for is scratches, long uniform scratches makes a breaking point in the glass so it's more prone to cracking (just like an iPhone4, btw), so if someone has stood on top of it and there grit on the glass, it's best to clean with a wet cloth and not just wipe it off.

About 1mm thickness should be more than enough. And yes, the entire surface must be coated. Ask in your local hardware store how to apply it but basically you need a toothed putty knife (dansk: tandspartel) to apply it, and then smoth it with a regular putty knife. You can get putty knives that have tooths on one side and is straight on the other.
 
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Am I right that this elasticity plastic sealant also can be used for eventual unsealed holes in the boominator on the inside?

Could do but I use plastic padding for that. The same stuff that's used to glue the speakers together and to the center brace.

I do use the plastic sealant on the back of the piezos (to the internal side of the horn) to dampen resonances. They sound much better after this treatment.
 
Hmm alright then. I think I'm just gonna use the elasticity sealant for the eventual holes and superglue for the speaker magnets because I already bought some. The piezoes I have are for outside mounting and I'm just gonna glue those on as well. But clever idea on the piezos.
My boominator is slightly different because my hardware store only had 12 mm birch plywood so the center braces (the ones with all the holes) are 3 mm shorter to compensate for the braces in the middle (storage space for batteries and amplifier.)
 
We broke our solarpanel on our first Boominator. It now has a thin crack going from one side to the other (not from one end to the other), but it still works. I don't know if it works 100%, or if the part after the crack is now disconnected from the rest.
So it can be broken. I don't remember how it happened, but probably by people dancing on it. We didn't fasten it with the sealant Saturnus mentions, but with silicone instead as I remember, or maybe 'woodglue?' (trælim), and I don't think it was as evenly spread out as you recommend. I hope it will not break if we do it the right way this time :)
 
I like the idea of people, like yourself ThokN, just building another boominator for this year, just because you can. But of course. There's always room for improvement. Nothing is perfect the first time.

I actually went by your camp Fri Ost last year and said "hi". Asked about the boominator and who built it, but I can't remember that much of what I said (damn alcohol :D). You were camping just in front of the digging site in G if I remember correctly. And you had that sweet wheelbarrow isolated with "flamenco" so the beer could be kept cold. Was pretty nice in my opinion. :)
 
I like the idea of people, like yourself ThokN, just building another boominator for this year, just because you can. But of course. There's always room for improvement. Nothing is perfect the first time.

I actually went by your camp Fri Ost last year and said "hi". Asked about the boominator and who built it, but I can't remember that much of what I said (damn alcohol :D). You were camping just in front of the digging site in G if I remember correctly. And you had that sweet wheelbarrow isolated with "flamenco" so the beer could be kept cold. Was pretty nice in my opinion. :)

hehe, i'm also planning on building a v. 2 of my Boominator this year.. I've already ordered a bunch of stuff as I have a lot of new additions to this years version.. I'll post some pics once i start building it! :)
 
Haha yes exactly! :) We're proud of the wheelbarrow. It is perfect for walking around and partying while having cold beer with you anytime.

Unfortunately I don't remember you coming by, but maybe I wasn't there, or just drunk. We will try to get the same spot this year for the 3'rd time in a row, so please stop by and drink a beer with us and see our next version of the Boominator! Maybe bring your own one evening or night, because we will have a powered audiosplitter this year so that 4 Boominators can be hooked up to the same music for some really big parties :D We are also very interested in seing other's Boominators for inspiration. And we will definately keep improving it each year. (You other Boominator-builders are ofcourse welcome as well :) )

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While I'm at it, one of our improvements (in our eyes) is that we will put both an Amp6-Basic and Amp9-Basic inside it, and with a 4-pole on-off-on switch I think we can hotswap between the two amps with a single switch. (The Amp6 always in 12V and Amp9 always in 24V)

The problem is that I can't figure out a way to connect the solar panel in this setup. I think it might be possible to connect the solar panel to the wires going from the switch when it is in 12V setting ...
it is like this:
( [12V to Amp6] -- [OFF] -- [24V to Amp9] )
so by putting the solarpanel on the [12V to Amp6] output of the switch, it will hopefully send 12V into the batteries, and be cut from the cirquit when the switch is set to [24V to Amp9].

Okay it may be difficult to understand without a drawing, but that will have to come later. Anyway, if someone understands what I'm saying, do you think this is possible?
 
Cool cool. Hopefully I will get some cool LED lighting for some disco parties.

I also thought about connecting a switch for on and off but my amp already has a casing with a switch and a volume knob on it so that might be a waste. I was then thinking about mounting the amp inside with the knob sticking a little bit out of one of those air holes in the middle.
Regarding the switch for on/off. If it has 2 polarities it's just for series connecting on the plus-side of the power supply, right? And if it has 4 polarities it's for switching between 2 different power supplies, yes?

Forgive me. Still learning :)
 
Regarding the switch for on/off. If it has 2 polarities it's just for series connecting on the plus-side of the power supply, right? And if it has 4 polarities it's for switching between 2 different power supplies, yes?
Actually I think 2-poles would be for switching two power supplies on and off, since a single power supply only need a 1-pole switch on it's + pole. So I don't see what you would use a 2-pole for.

A 3-pole can, as far as I remember (I did it myself last year) be used to make a parrallel/serial switch, so that you can switch between 12V and 24V if you have 2 batteries.

The 4-pole switch I'm thinking about is perhaps for switching between two different power supplies as you mention. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I hope that I can somehow make some clever cabling on it so that it has 2x 12V battery inputs, which then is either serial connected into 'output 1', or parallel connected into 'output 2', thus making it capable of hotswapping between the two different Amps, AND have the solarpanel connected to 'output 2' which is parallel 12V for daytime use with lot's of sun (ofcourse!) :)
 
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You need 2 solar panels. You just connect one solar panel to each battery. That's it. For amp switching you need a 4 pole, 2 or 3 position switch and this wiring.



1234 = Connect 1 to 3, and 2 to 4 for 12V ... connect amp6b from 1 and 4
1234 = 1: Bat 1+ / 2:Bat 1- / 3:Bat 2+ / 4:Bat 2-
1234 = Connect 2 to 3 for 24V ... connect amp9b from 1 and 4



....

Maybe we could ask Roskilde for permission (actually don't need it really but it's always good to ask first) to hog one of the agoras for a Boominator party. And place all the Boominators we can around the outside of the agora. It could become epicly loud in there.

Also, we could hook the source (DJ mixer or something) up to a FM transmitter, don't need more than 10-20m range so it should be legal as well, or maybe Roskilde Radio will do a special DJ session for it if we ask them). Most phones these days have FM reciever, so it's just hooking a phone to each, and they all get the same signal.
 
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