I solved the problem, thanks for the help!
And WOW, THHIS THING IS LOUD
Fantastic news. What did you find was wrong and how did you fix it?
Hi
I see that Saturnus suggests to use one of the three suggested woofers and nothing else.
I have some faital 10 fe200 lying around, 150 watt/ 96 DB sensitivity, and tried my first winisd SIM two drivers 40 LT ported tuned to 8o hz and looks good so what's so wrong? Of course i could have made a wrong SIM. Here are the drivers parameters main difference i see are the Qs.
THIELE AND SMALL
Fs 55 Hz
Re 5.9 Ohm
Qes 0.74
Qms 11.3
Qts 0.70
Vas 53.4 dm^3 (1.89 ft^3)
Sd 332 cm^2 (51.46 in^2)
Xmax (4) 4.67 mm
Xdamage (5) 10.4 mm
Mms 24.5 g
Bl 8.2 N/A
Le 0.42 mH
Mmd 21.2 g
Cms 0.34 mm/N
Rms 0.75 Kg/s
Eta Zero 1.16 %
EBP 74 Hz.
I'm thinking about two halfinators. Studying boards currently and i am intrigued by the one with built in bluetooth.
Was initially looking at 2.1 boards with built in crossover control but it looks like they cross too low for a boominator and reports say they don't sound good
I built a 4 way soundaystem with active crossover but learning the mobile side of things so i am a newbie here
I see that Saturnus suggests to use one of the three suggested woofers and nothing else.
I have some faital 10 fe200 lying around, 150 watt/ 96 DB sensitivity, and tried my first winisd SIM two drivers 40 LT ported tuned to 8o hz and looks good so what's so wrong? Of course i could have made a wrong SIM. Here are the drivers parameters main difference i see are the Qs.
THIELE AND SMALL
Fs 55 Hz
Re 5.9 Ohm
Qes 0.74
Qms 11.3
Qts 0.70
Vas 53.4 dm^3 (1.89 ft^3)
Sd 332 cm^2 (51.46 in^2)
Xmax (4) 4.67 mm
Xdamage (5) 10.4 mm
Mms 24.5 g
Bl 8.2 N/A
Le 0.42 mH
Mmd 21.2 g
Cms 0.34 mm/N
Rms 0.75 Kg/s
Eta Zero 1.16 %
EBP 74 Hz.
I'm thinking about two halfinators. Studying boards currently and i am intrigued by the one with built in bluetooth.
Was initially looking at 2.1 boards with built in crossover control but it looks like they cross too low for a boominator and reports say they don't sound good
I built a 4 way soundaystem with active crossover but learning the mobile side of things so i am a newbie here
Hi there,
If you look over the history you will see that this has been discussed a number of times and what it pools down to is that any change in drivers means it is a new design and not a boominator. The drivers you have may work well but to optimize the results you will likely need to change the crossovers, port dimensions, and overall enclosed volume. You are in for a good bit of work and simulations only go so far. The Boominator design went through a number of iterations to refine details like the round over radius on the main speaker driver (according to Saturnus).
If you go forward with the project it would be great if you could start a new thread and keep us posted.
Hello diy people, im planning on building a boominator and i've read through hundreds of pages but still can't get my head quite around what treble speaker i can use, i can get a hold of P.audio HP-10W if those are still the best for the project and if these are the ones that Saturnus used
https://www.ljudia.se/produkter/hogtalarelement/bas-mellanregister/10/p-audio-hp-10w
So for treble speaker what are the options these days? None mentioned in the thread seems to be avalible, can i just go with 4 that has the range of 4kHz to around 35k or do i need exact same specs?
BTW anyone have any link to a more recent build?
https://www.ljudia.se/produkter/hogtalarelement/bas-mellanregister/10/p-audio-hp-10w
So for treble speaker what are the options these days? None mentioned in the thread seems to be avalible, can i just go with 4 that has the range of 4kHz to around 35k or do i need exact same specs?
BTW anyone have any link to a more recent build?
Ok so after another 10 hours of reading i've ordered the HP-10's and 4 Piezo MPT-001 and the Maxamp20.
Now i think i know everything i need to know before starting my build but my last wonders are, about some frequency the drivers couldn't produce so this guy did this
"To save the speakers from unneccesary excursion at frequencies it can't really reproduce we modified the highpass on our high efficiency class-D MaxAmp20 by removing some of the input capacitors."
https://cdn.instructables.com/FBA/C3SF/I7BQG917/FBAC3SFI7BQG917.LARGE.jpg
Is that needed or does it in any way increase the quality of the sound or something? And also do the drivers need any resistance or only the tweeters? I've seen some schemes where people had crossover on the drivers..
Im using MPT-001's and canopysound.dk recommends 4 x 47 ohm 2W resistors so are those better than the 3w that i read about in this thread? Sorry for the messy post but hope someone got answers
Now i think i know everything i need to know before starting my build but my last wonders are, about some frequency the drivers couldn't produce so this guy did this
"To save the speakers from unneccesary excursion at frequencies it can't really reproduce we modified the highpass on our high efficiency class-D MaxAmp20 by removing some of the input capacitors."
https://cdn.instructables.com/FBA/C3SF/I7BQG917/FBAC3SFI7BQG917.LARGE.jpg
Is that needed or does it in any way increase the quality of the sound or something? And also do the drivers need any resistance or only the tweeters? I've seen some schemes where people had crossover on the drivers..
Im using MPT-001's and canopysound.dk recommends 4 x 47 ohm 2W resistors so are those better than the 3w that i read about in this thread? Sorry for the messy post but hope someone got answers
Boominator speakers for sale
I'm in Kent, I would like to take these off your hands for building mk2... PM me how much you want for them.....
Cheers
BJ
I'm in Kent, I would like to take these off your hands for building mk2... PM me how much you want for them.....
Cheers
BJ
From my point of perspective, this operation is fully optional. You could remove some input capacitors, but it is not a must. The input capacitors works like a high pass filter, and by removing some, you cut out frequencies in the low section. I see this as a efficiency concern, as you would not need to spend energy to amplify signals that your speaker cones cannot transform into sound. I doubt this will make any difference to sound quality, and the energy you save will not make all the difference in the world. Please correct me if I am wrong.
When using the MPTs, you only need resistor between hp-10 and mpt. The more complicated filter design is for builds with another tweeter ( pht-407N).
Choose the 3w solid carbon resistor. They are most suited for the purpose.
I hope this answers your questions!
Yeah, thanks for the answer, i'll probably skip the capacitor cut, can't be much of a power difference.
I must say i figured the resistors out through reading almost the whole thread, but i went with 2w as that was what i could get my hands on in the store, hope it doesn't matter too much, read that they should only carry about 0.2-0.5 watt at max but they did get hot after just a few seconds of playing, but i guess that's normal?
Currently building my boominator, have everything at home and tested all the speakers, currently working on the wood, have 80% drawn out so almost time to start cutting and drilling! Excited AF, 1 piezo and 1 hp-10 at 85% volume made my ears hurt a little when sitting next to them for a while
Goal is to bring it to Bråvalla this summer in sweden but they have forbid "Car batterys (Lead-acid batteries and etc) dunno if we'll sneak in 2 pairs of SLA's or if i can get my hands on some cheap LiFPO4's, or ill just argue that they said "CAR BATTERYS" and bring some ATV/MC SLA's any suggestions? Maybe someone has a link to a cheap battery option?
I have one last question, do i need to have some sort of ventilation for the electronics compartment, i was thinking of putting the maxamp inside a waterproofed plastic box anyways so then i won't be able to ventilate the amp anyways!
I must say i figured the resistors out through reading almost the whole thread, but i went with 2w as that was what i could get my hands on in the store, hope it doesn't matter too much, read that they should only carry about 0.2-0.5 watt at max but they did get hot after just a few seconds of playing, but i guess that's normal?
Currently building my boominator, have everything at home and tested all the speakers, currently working on the wood, have 80% drawn out so almost time to start cutting and drilling! Excited AF, 1 piezo and 1 hp-10 at 85% volume made my ears hurt a little when sitting next to them for a while
Goal is to bring it to Bråvalla this summer in sweden but they have forbid "Car batterys (Lead-acid batteries and etc) dunno if we'll sneak in 2 pairs of SLA's or if i can get my hands on some cheap LiFPO4's, or ill just argue that they said "CAR BATTERYS" and bring some ATV/MC SLA's any suggestions? Maybe someone has a link to a cheap battery option?
I have one last question, do i need to have some sort of ventilation for the electronics compartment, i was thinking of putting the maxamp inside a waterproofed plastic box anyways so then i won't be able to ventilate the amp anyways!
Hi Guise,
I have been trying to up my signal level slightly with my boominator.
I have GMarsh's CAMP board and a moto e phone and nexus 7 tablet as sources.
When I use purely passive volume control--alps pot, 10k, it seems like the amp has more to give before I reach the max volume with the alps pot.
I can turn it all the way up on both sources and the alps and the boominator is loud and clear, but not quite "cranked."
this is while using aux cord 3.5mm jack input to amp
If I use a bluetooth dongle as input--also to the 3.5mm jack, I get slightly more volume due to pre-amp in the bluetooth dongle.
But, still seems like the amp is not really giving the max.
So, I have been messing with the addition of a single-sided power supply 12v NE5532-based pre-amp board from ebay.
like one of these: NE5532 OP AMP Preamp Pre-amplifier Board Single Power Supply With Volume Control | eBay
With this pre-amp, the boominator sounds better, but, as it gets louder, the CAMP shuts off and makes no more sound until I turn it off and back on with the power switch.
I have the pre-amp getting power from the battery terminals on the CAMP.
Any ideas about this issue?
Does the CAMP shut itself down if the level on the input gets too "hot"?
Does the addition of the pre-amp on that battery circuit cause an issue?
Just trying to figure this out. I think the boominator/CAMP sounds better with the NE5532 pre, but now I have the sound cutting out if I crank that up too far.
So, if you are using a pre-amp for your boominator, how did you implement it?
I have been trying to up my signal level slightly with my boominator.
I have GMarsh's CAMP board and a moto e phone and nexus 7 tablet as sources.
When I use purely passive volume control--alps pot, 10k, it seems like the amp has more to give before I reach the max volume with the alps pot.
I can turn it all the way up on both sources and the alps and the boominator is loud and clear, but not quite "cranked."
this is while using aux cord 3.5mm jack input to amp
If I use a bluetooth dongle as input--also to the 3.5mm jack, I get slightly more volume due to pre-amp in the bluetooth dongle.
But, still seems like the amp is not really giving the max.
So, I have been messing with the addition of a single-sided power supply 12v NE5532-based pre-amp board from ebay.
like one of these: NE5532 OP AMP Preamp Pre-amplifier Board Single Power Supply With Volume Control | eBay
With this pre-amp, the boominator sounds better, but, as it gets louder, the CAMP shuts off and makes no more sound until I turn it off and back on with the power switch.
I have the pre-amp getting power from the battery terminals on the CAMP.
Any ideas about this issue?
Does the CAMP shut itself down if the level on the input gets too "hot"?
Does the addition of the pre-amp on that battery circuit cause an issue?
Just trying to figure this out. I think the boominator/CAMP sounds better with the NE5532 pre, but now I have the sound cutting out if I crank that up too far.
So, if you are using a pre-amp for your boominator, how did you implement it?
So Boominator is currently drying up... Been 7 days of constantly working on the craftmanship and another 7 days researching, so 14 days in im still not finished and i don't study or work full time at the moment.. Didn't go nearly as fast as i planned, and still im a really impatient guy (can you tell from the pictures)...
So here is my build
Boominator 2017 - Album on Imgur
Currently waiting for the glue and chemical metal to really settle.
Im really stoked for the end result, it might not look very pleasing right now but with some putty filler and paint it should look decent.
Next step is do wire the electronics and test it out assemled, after that i will probably seal both speaker compartments
I have some questions before i can do that tough,
1. I forgot that i didn't round the edges on the centerbrace square holes, that means volume of the box shouldn't add up (+ all the freaking glue i used to seal ****) should i remove some wood from the center brace to correct the volume? If so how and where?
2. I have ordered voltmeters, ampmeters and switches, can you wire amp / voltmeters to a switch so the LED's don't draw power? Also how do i wire these Ampmeter to check the current the amp draws (if that's even possible)?
3. Can i seal my maxamp inside a plastic case to water proof it (moisture proof really) or does the Maxamp require ventilation (do i need ventilationholes in the sides of the centre compartment?)
4. What do y'all think of these? I don't really trust the seller in quality terms
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/8pcs-3-2v-9000mah-lifepo4-10ah-battery-30A-long-tabs-lugs-for-battery-24v-10ah-lithium
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8pcs-Brand-lifepo4-battery-10ah-3-2v-cell-3-2v-10000mah-lithium
So here is my build
Boominator 2017 - Album on Imgur
Currently waiting for the glue and chemical metal to really settle.
Im really stoked for the end result, it might not look very pleasing right now but with some putty filler and paint it should look decent.
Next step is do wire the electronics and test it out assemled, after that i will probably seal both speaker compartments
I have some questions before i can do that tough,
1. I forgot that i didn't round the edges on the centerbrace square holes, that means volume of the box shouldn't add up (+ all the freaking glue i used to seal ****) should i remove some wood from the center brace to correct the volume? If so how and where?
2. I have ordered voltmeters, ampmeters and switches, can you wire amp / voltmeters to a switch so the LED's don't draw power? Also how do i wire these Ampmeter to check the current the amp draws (if that's even possible)?
3. Can i seal my maxamp inside a plastic case to water proof it (moisture proof really) or does the Maxamp require ventilation (do i need ventilationholes in the sides of the centre compartment?)
4. What do y'all think of these? I don't really trust the seller in quality terms
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/8pcs-3-2v-9000mah-lifepo4-10ah-battery-30A-long-tabs-lugs-for-battery-24v-10ah-lithium
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8pcs-Brand-lifepo4-battery-10ah-3-2v-cell-3-2v-10000mah-lithium
Unfortunately I can't edit the above post, but I'm wondering: What would be better for something smaller (width wise, want it more cube like) than the original boominator:
2 x Boominator Mini (v2), stacked on top of each other and removing the board in between them.
Half Boominator, just a halfinator of the original
Half Boomeganator, half of the 12" version
Folded Boominator, the electronics enclosure is removed and folded to be more cubelike with stored elsewhere.
2 x Boominator Mini (v2), stacked on top of each other and removing the board in between them.
Half Boominator, just a halfinator of the original
Half Boomeganator, half of the 12" version
Folded Boominator, the electronics enclosure is removed and folded to be more cubelike with stored elsewhere.
There is an alternative that is called the qubinator, which is basically what you are asking for. It uses the p.audio HP10T drivers, which is a full rage driver. This setup would make a cheaper and smaller version than a halfinator. Saturnus himself said (can´t find the quote) it will not be as good as a halfinator, but basically the same. Ofc nothing can outrun the boominator, but that would be your best choice.
Go here to get more details.
Also, anyone in Europe, preferably Scandinavia who got a couple of p.audio HP10T drivers laying around that they want to sell?? Judia are not going to sell them anymore, and they only got 1 in store
Rounding over center brace holes & gluing question
Hey everyone -
I started my Boominator build about a year and a half ago I believe, but became a father very shortly after that - so it got put on hold. Anyway, I'm working on it again, and almost to the point of gluing it up.
I do have a few last questions:
1. Am I supposed to round-over the holes in the center braces or leave them as is??
2. For gluing, the latest recommendation I could find is steveeboy saying to use GE Silicone II to attach the woofers/grills to the plywood. I am wondering if using this silicone is enough, or if I also need screws. I remember reading up way earlier in this thread that gluing only is recommended, but I've also seen a lot of build photos where people also use screws or bolts/nuts as well.
Thanks in advance!
Hey everyone -
I started my Boominator build about a year and a half ago I believe, but became a father very shortly after that - so it got put on hold. Anyway, I'm working on it again, and almost to the point of gluing it up.
I do have a few last questions:
1. Am I supposed to round-over the holes in the center braces or leave them as is??
2. For gluing, the latest recommendation I could find is steveeboy saying to use GE Silicone II to attach the woofers/grills to the plywood. I am wondering if using this silicone is enough, or if I also need screws. I remember reading up way earlier in this thread that gluing only is recommended, but I've also seen a lot of build photos where people also use screws or bolts/nuts as well.
Thanks in advance!
Nice to see it's coming together! To answer your questions from my point of view:
1. The volume from rounding edges in centerbrace is not enough to make a noticable difference. I would not have bothered.
2. Yes you can wire volt/amp meters together with switches, this is common to save some power. But I would like to put in some advise from my own experience here. Amp meter sounds nice and handy to monitor power consumption, but you will not use it as much as you think. Ampmeter shows irregular values according to peaks and bumps in the signal. Its hard to get some concrete information out of it, specially if you by cheap ampmeters. At best, you would have to make a average calculation of consumption. When you install a device in your boominator, you would like it to be super handy, else it is just another source of adversity.
If you buy lifepo4 battery, volt meter is not as useful as it would be with sealed led acid batteries. With lfp4 batteries, volt stays the same during 80% of state of charge. Over 90%: approx 14-15 volt, 10-90%: approx: 13,4 volt, under 10%: under 11 volts. So you see, if you choose lfp, you would be better off with a coulomb counter that actually counts amount of power going in and out. With volt meter you would only have 3 pieces of information about battery state: under 10%, between 10 and 90%, over 90%.
Do some quick googling on circuits, you will easily find how to wire in volt meters together with your circuit.
3. The MaxAmp does not generate much heat, so ventilation is not that much of a must if the maxamp is the only thing in your electronics compartment together with the battery. But I think I would have made some strategic holes in there, just in case you would like upgrading with more electronics later. Moisture is an issue, yes. I did not protect mine from moisture, and it has worked well, but I've heard of incidents. Stay safe. Some things in this life are not worth risking.
4. I would not buy these batteries. lfp batteries needs balancing and under-voltage protection, or else they will only last a couple of cycles before loss of capacity. And you would need to wire them in series yourself to get over 12v. Buy complete pack with BMS/PCB inside, ready to go. Saves you days of struggle! Pricy, yes, but they are so worth if. 3000 cycles if used correct
Done!
I've done a few field tests while playing soccer outside and it's really amazing! Getting distortion at above 90% volume but i think it's my battery that can't deliver enough current (strangely as i'm using a car backup jump charger that's a 9v led battery)
I've used a 240v to 12v power supply at home inside when testing, and it also shows the current going through, i got reads of 0.2 amps from just idle to about 55-60% volume so i know it "draws" about 0.2 amps when you play chill, but it jumps from 0.5 amps up to 2 amps when you use full volume, also noteworthy full volume is no problem when i use the power supply and set the powersupply to 13.9 volts and 20A output capacity...
@REIER
And i already ordered those shitty chinese lifepo4's but i hope they work (yes i plan on serial connecting 4 of them), it was the only thing we could get within our budget for a festival coming in 1 month and SLA's are not allowed. However we plan on bringing like 4 SLA's in backup if the Lifepo4's give up or w/e goes wrong!
I didn't round anything but the port (handles), also i forgot rounding the square holes just inside the ports + using too much sealant inside, and nuts and screws and thick cables and just alot of **** to **** the volume up but it still sounds amazing and has good bass!