Yeah, gorilla glue expands, makes for a fun cleanup and probably compromises its strength. I use PL Premium as it stays where you put it and I know it works.
There's probably an equivalent "No More Nails" or other branded product, but stores around here all carry PL so it's all I've ever bought.
There's probably an equivalent "No More Nails" or other branded product, but stores around here all carry PL so it's all I've ever bought.
I normally use "Henkel Ponal Express". Glues in 5 minutes. The bonding is normally more solid than the wood itself. 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Henkel-Ponal-Express-PN10X-Wood/dp/B000S6CJMS/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Henkel-Ponal-Express-PN10X-Wood/dp/B000S6CJMS/
Last edited:
Completely unnecessary They'd do no good except emptying some coins from your wallet and add weight.
The thing is that when you're limited to basically 8-10mm screws because the baffle is 12mm they'll be much weaker than the glue joint. Naturally, if you went all the way and riveted the metal brackets in place they'll start to become a possible factor but I doubt that any force strong enough to break the glue joint won't also just snap the metal bracket clean through.
You can parallel the output channels. It won't give you more output power but at least energy is not wasted on a dummy load.
As mentioned by others the TPA3116 will not work on a "24V" battery. It has a hard voltage limit at 26V built in. Above that and the chip simply shuts down. If you have a dc-dc converter it will work on 24V though. Just note that it is generally regarded that the optimum supply voltage is no higher than 21V.
This was my first thought, however its used to glue wooden airplanes together, boats, and the plywood itself. Its also used to repair wood in structural applications, its very universal and means I can use 1 glue for everything, attaching speakers and bonding magnet to the centre panel.
I can not find the post now, but sure Saturnus also suggested it?
Dupe...
Not even close, its at least 3 times stronger, but the main benefit is that it is a lot more impact resistant, if you tap two panels with a hammer that have been glued together with PVA than they will come apart, not with this stuff, it dries hard but still behaves like rubber.
Interesting. My brief research indicates that there are three types of PVA - categorised mainly on the basis of how water resistant they are. Type 1 is the strongest and most water resistant(I expect the PL falls into this category). Joints must be tight and it's prone to creep under load.
Epoxy glues are better for gap filling (if the joint is too tight, it's weaker)and are waterproof, but more toxic and expensive.
Wow, lots of comments about glue today. Compatibility with materials is critical.
Saying epoxy is a bit like saying food. There are a lot of variations with varying qualities. Commonly available epoxy will be fine on bare ply wood. It holds up well and can have some modest gap filling properties too (e.g. the west systems stuff). It doesn't stick to polyester resins well, or at all. That's why it isn't good for the phenolic coated ply.
As for PL. I've used a lot of PL400 gluing ply to floor joists. It is amazing and I considered it for my builds but I am concerned it is too thick for the dado joints. They only have 0.01" (0.24mm) clearance in width and half again as much in depth. I'd really prefer to avoid a situation were the glue can't flow and I can't get the parts fully seated. Is there a thinner version?
As for Gorilla glue, this is the second time I've used it. It is just as awful as I remember. Just crap to work with, but I did some test glue ups and I'm confident it is strong enough, especially with the dados.
I suppose a bead of PL to the joint corners to add additional strength.
Saying epoxy is a bit like saying food. There are a lot of variations with varying qualities. Commonly available epoxy will be fine on bare ply wood. It holds up well and can have some modest gap filling properties too (e.g. the west systems stuff). It doesn't stick to polyester resins well, or at all. That's why it isn't good for the phenolic coated ply.
As for PL. I've used a lot of PL400 gluing ply to floor joists. It is amazing and I considered it for my builds but I am concerned it is too thick for the dado joints. They only have 0.01" (0.24mm) clearance in width and half again as much in depth. I'd really prefer to avoid a situation were the glue can't flow and I can't get the parts fully seated. Is there a thinner version?
As for Gorilla glue, this is the second time I've used it. It is just as awful as I remember. Just crap to work with, but I did some test glue ups and I'm confident it is strong enough, especially with the dados.
I suppose a bead of PL to the joint corners to add additional strength.