I'm going to build the original Boominator!
Planning to use 4 X HP-10W and 4 X Monacor MPT-001. Now I'm trying to decide what type of amp to use.
I sould also say that I dont know that much about speakers in general, hopefully you can help me!
I want to ba able to use the speaker at it's full capacity, playtime is important but not as important as db.
The maxamp 20 seem to be a good choice but it's 22 watts seems to be soo weak. I might be totally wrong, but I just want to make sur I choose the right amp for my use.
Is the maxamp enough? or sould I buy a stronger amp?
I saw that ther are alot of cheap class D amps on ebay, do you think they might be any good? (my budget is not the biggest)
2X50W TDA7492 D Class High Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp Board with Radiator | eBay
100W High Power 100W Class D Amplifier Board DC20V to DC36V TDA7498 | eBay
Planning to use 4 X HP-10W and 4 X Monacor MPT-001. Now I'm trying to decide what type of amp to use.
I sould also say that I dont know that much about speakers in general, hopefully you can help me!
I want to ba able to use the speaker at it's full capacity, playtime is important but not as important as db.
The maxamp 20 seem to be a good choice but it's 22 watts seems to be soo weak. I might be totally wrong, but I just want to make sur I choose the right amp for my use.
Is the maxamp enough? or sould I buy a stronger amp?
I saw that ther are alot of cheap class D amps on ebay, do you think they might be any good? (my budget is not the biggest)
2X50W TDA7492 D Class High Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp Board with Radiator | eBay
100W High Power 100W Class D Amplifier Board DC20V to DC36V TDA7498 | eBay
It is very very loud on just a maxamp. In any case, it is a much simpler set up as you don't need to mess around with dc-dc converters or batteries in series with all the potential problems that might give, so as always I recommend that you build it as intended first. If you then feel you lack volume you can always look into more complicated set ups.
I'm going to build the original Boominator!
Planning to use 4 X HP-10W and 4 X Monacor MPT-001. Now I'm trying to decide what type of amp to use.
I sould also say that I dont know that much about speakers in general, hopefully you can help me!
I want to ba able to use the speaker at it's full capacity, playtime is important but not as important as db.
The maxamp 20 seem to be a good choice but it's 22 watts seems to be soo weak. I might be totally wrong, but I just want to make sur I choose the right amp for my use.
Is the maxamp enough? or sould I buy a stronger amp?
I saw that ther are alot of cheap class D amps on ebay, do you think they might be any good? (my budget is not the biggest)
2X50W TDA7492 D Class High Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp Board with Radiator | eBay
100W High Power 100W Class D Amplifier Board DC20V to DC36V TDA7498 | eBay
Hey!
May i ask where you got the HP-10W speakers because they are almost everywhere sold out...
Thanks,
Matthijs
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medbo is from Canada so you should probably not get it from the same place.
The regular dealers of HP10W in Europe (that I know of on top of my head) are:
Blue Aran, Intertechnik, CanopySound, Ljudia, DiscoNetto and HiFiKit (not listed in any particular order).
Since you're only buying in December from your previous post then what you do is you ask them when they will have them in stock. For example, I know Blue Aran is getting a batch in mid November but that is almost presold already but you could reserve a set maybe. CanopySound sells complete packages with everything you need except wood but including all drivers, grills, amp, wires etc (all are the recommended parts as advised by me in this thread), they have them in stock as far as I know.
I'm sure there are plenty other dealers in Europe that I have not listed that may or may not have them in stock.
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Okay thanks for your advice!
I created my profile while I was in Canada so thats why it said Canada. Im actually from Sweden, What is the best place to order a Maxamp from?
Is this still valid? Can't get the measurments on the sketchup...
Is there a picture of the boominator in the same way as the mini is presentated?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://s478.photobucket.com/user/Shortrope/media/BoominatorMINIV2Dimensions.jpg.html
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Hi All,
I've been reading over this thread since late last year after a friend of mine told me about the Boominator - I'm sure he knew full well i'd become obsessed with it and have to build one...... Awesome idea and execution Saturnus!
Ok, so after waiting 8 months for my SN2-10MBs to arrive, they are now here and I am officially building a Signature Boominator.
I built the Amp9 about a month ago. Really enjoyed putting that together. Havent tested it yet as I dont have an appropriate power source but my solder job looks totaly pro if I say so myself...
I am a furniture maker and have a fully decked out workshop so I have no concerns around the cutting and build side of things.
I do have a few questions on circuit options though.
I have the drivers, PHT407N tweaters, miniDSP and Amp9 already. I'm looking at options for solar as well as charge controller and batteries. I'm planning on increasing battery size a bit, but not heaps, from standard. Also looking at around the 30w mark for solar using a custom solar configuration. It will still be fully embedded in the top of the unit though.
I am wanting to do something a bit ambitous and build both Signature and standard Boominator in one unit.
To achieve this I want to get the Amp6, then setup two separate cicuits which can be switched between. The complexity is obviously in the speaker wiring given the different wiring requirements and use of miniDSP v crossover etc.
I have seen a couple of posts in the thread of others mentioning this but havent seen a wiring and switch design..
Can anyone tell me if this has actually been done by anyone or is it generally decided against after being thought up..
I cant see it being possible without having multiple switches to break and alter the speaker wiring in multiple places..
I would love any feedback on best way to achieve this, or if this has indeed been done, a reference to such a post. My search results have not found anything conclusive.
Also, i want to include volume control on the Boominator. Should this be done with an Attenuator or a Potentiometer?
From my googling, a good quality SA will provide better signal quality?
Would this go before miniDSP or before Amp?
...41hz seems to have been down since litterally 1 day after my Amp9 was shipped so not sure when i'd be able to get the Amp6 anyway. But i'm not in any hurry, i am not going to rush this build.
I was considering carbon fibre cloth and epoxy finish as i think it would look hot but may not do that as the black colour will suck in a lot of unwanted heat from the sun...
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mike
I've been reading over this thread since late last year after a friend of mine told me about the Boominator - I'm sure he knew full well i'd become obsessed with it and have to build one...... Awesome idea and execution Saturnus!
Ok, so after waiting 8 months for my SN2-10MBs to arrive, they are now here and I am officially building a Signature Boominator.
I built the Amp9 about a month ago. Really enjoyed putting that together. Havent tested it yet as I dont have an appropriate power source but my solder job looks totaly pro if I say so myself...
I am a furniture maker and have a fully decked out workshop so I have no concerns around the cutting and build side of things.
I do have a few questions on circuit options though.
I have the drivers, PHT407N tweaters, miniDSP and Amp9 already. I'm looking at options for solar as well as charge controller and batteries. I'm planning on increasing battery size a bit, but not heaps, from standard. Also looking at around the 30w mark for solar using a custom solar configuration. It will still be fully embedded in the top of the unit though.
I am wanting to do something a bit ambitous and build both Signature and standard Boominator in one unit.
To achieve this I want to get the Amp6, then setup two separate cicuits which can be switched between. The complexity is obviously in the speaker wiring given the different wiring requirements and use of miniDSP v crossover etc.
I have seen a couple of posts in the thread of others mentioning this but havent seen a wiring and switch design..
Can anyone tell me if this has actually been done by anyone or is it generally decided against after being thought up..
I cant see it being possible without having multiple switches to break and alter the speaker wiring in multiple places..
I would love any feedback on best way to achieve this, or if this has indeed been done, a reference to such a post. My search results have not found anything conclusive.
Also, i want to include volume control on the Boominator. Should this be done with an Attenuator or a Potentiometer?
From my googling, a good quality SA will provide better signal quality?
Would this go before miniDSP or before Amp?
...41hz seems to have been down since litterally 1 day after my Amp9 was shipped so not sure when i'd be able to get the Amp6 anyway. But i'm not in any hurry, i am not going to rush this build.
I was considering carbon fibre cloth and epoxy finish as i think it would look hot but may not do that as the black colour will suck in a lot of unwanted heat from the sun...
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mike
Are you going for 2 lead acid batteries in serie? Then it's possible to switch between 'less loud, less power' and 'louder, more power' (parallel vs serie, 12v vs 24v). It isn't difficult at all, it can be done with a single DPDT switch.
A good potentiometer will do. IIRC the MiniDSP has a volume control onboard.
A sneak peak out of our build log; the carbon electronics compartment:
Just a test piece, worked out very nice. We're definitely going to use it. Rest of the build will get warnex/duratex.
A good potentiometer will do. IIRC the MiniDSP has a volume control onboard.
A sneak peak out of our build log; the carbon electronics compartment:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just a test piece, worked out very nice. We're definitely going to use it. Rest of the build will get warnex/duratex.
Hi lutkeveld,
Yep I will be using two batteries, switchable between series and parallel (when using the Amp9).
Hey the carbon fibre looks awesome. I do really want to do that but i just think it will get way too hot sitting in the sun in all black.
Despite being able to switch to more power efficient 12v mode, i still want to be able to also switch to the Amp6 as it's way more power efficient and will be more practical for longer trips but for a day in the park or a beach party, it would be Signature all the way.
being a little OCD, i couldn't not build the Signature version, but the compromise in play time is bothering me.
Yes i know you can get the pot with the miniDSP but i heard it was just a cheap pot which wasn't any good. I didn't get that option. I don't really understand the difference in the way an SA and Pot works so i'm not sure if you can just interchange them or if a SA would require some other implementation.
Yep I will be using two batteries, switchable between series and parallel (when using the Amp9).
Hey the carbon fibre looks awesome. I do really want to do that but i just think it will get way too hot sitting in the sun in all black.
Despite being able to switch to more power efficient 12v mode, i still want to be able to also switch to the Amp6 as it's way more power efficient and will be more practical for longer trips but for a day in the park or a beach party, it would be Signature all the way.
being a little OCD, i couldn't not build the Signature version, but the compromise in play time is bothering me.
Yes i know you can get the pot with the miniDSP but i heard it was just a cheap pot which wasn't any good. I didn't get that option. I don't really understand the difference in the way an SA and Pot works so i'm not sure if you can just interchange them or if a SA would require some other implementation.
The reason the miniDSP pot can be dirt cheap is that it only controls a digital volume control so the quality doesn't matter at all.
I don't really see any good way around having 4 amp channels for the signature version as I've not designed a passive filter for it. So even if you do manage to find a 2 position 8 pole switch with the required current rating (1 pole per speaker lead), you'd still need to calculate and design, with proper testing naturally, a passive filter for it. But if that is done and you find usable switch, you simply put the switch on the speaker cables coming directly from the speakers, and on one position it goes to the speaker outputs of the amp9, and on the other position it goes to the passive filter which in turn goes to the amp6 (or maxamp20 as is now recommended).
Honestly though, doing this with switches is a bad idea. Instead you should do it with plugs so you don't have as much chance of a bad connection or having the voltage set at the wrong level for the wrong amp.
The amp9 doesn't use that much more power on a 12V load though. It's about 180mA idle, so only 3 times that of an amp6 but it has twice the number of channels, and the amp9 is slightly more efficient than the amp6 as well.
Camp Fri Ost (means Free Cheese) at Roskilde Festival have a amp9/amp6 set-up that works pretty well and is completely fool proof. It simply have the two amps in separate but identical cases with identical lead in and out's. When the amp6 case is used the 2 batteries are paralleled inside the case so that it's 12V and the opposite in the amp9 case for fixed 24V operation. This has been tested to work for many years at Roskilde Festival which is probably the ultimate testing ground for durability and fool proofing.
EDIT: btw, you can get carbon fibre sheets in pretty much any colour you like.
I don't really see any good way around having 4 amp channels for the signature version as I've not designed a passive filter for it. So even if you do manage to find a 2 position 8 pole switch with the required current rating (1 pole per speaker lead), you'd still need to calculate and design, with proper testing naturally, a passive filter for it. But if that is done and you find usable switch, you simply put the switch on the speaker cables coming directly from the speakers, and on one position it goes to the speaker outputs of the amp9, and on the other position it goes to the passive filter which in turn goes to the amp6 (or maxamp20 as is now recommended).
Honestly though, doing this with switches is a bad idea. Instead you should do it with plugs so you don't have as much chance of a bad connection or having the voltage set at the wrong level for the wrong amp.
The amp9 doesn't use that much more power on a 12V load though. It's about 180mA idle, so only 3 times that of an amp6 but it has twice the number of channels, and the amp9 is slightly more efficient than the amp6 as well.
Camp Fri Ost (means Free Cheese) at Roskilde Festival have a amp9/amp6 set-up that works pretty well and is completely fool proof. It simply have the two amps in separate but identical cases with identical lead in and out's. When the amp6 case is used the 2 batteries are paralleled inside the case so that it's 12V and the opposite in the amp9 case for fixed 24V operation. This has been tested to work for many years at Roskilde Festival which is probably the ultimate testing ground for durability and fool proofing.
EDIT: btw, you can get carbon fibre sheets in pretty much any colour you like.
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