Nice work Feelix!
Meanwhile, my Micro is finished:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJpFPvQEzTQ&feature=youtu.be
It sounds amazing, it really comes to live when placed on the ground. Total weight is just under 4 kilos, even with the 3.2ah SLA.
I'm really enjoying it. Nice thing to chill with in this warm weather. And ideal to take with you to the swimming pool, no more arguing over where it's pointing at, just place it in the middle
. Charging is really easy so even friends can do it. That was one of my goals because it's going to change place quite a lot.
Meanwhile, my Micro is finished:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJpFPvQEzTQ&feature=youtu.be
It sounds amazing, it really comes to live when placed on the ground. Total weight is just under 4 kilos, even with the 3.2ah SLA.
I'm really enjoying it. Nice thing to chill with in this warm weather. And ideal to take with you to the swimming pool, no more arguing over where it's pointing at, just place it in the middle
. Charging is really easy so even friends can do it. That was one of my goals because it's going to change place quite a lot.No I didn't, this was a build with parts i mostly had lying around. I managed to build it for around 90 euros. Don't really miss the tweeters but when you're a fair bit off-axis the highs are a bit recessed. My friends surely won't notice, especially because it'll play hardstyle, dance, dubstep and such most of the time.
There sure will be a 'deluxe' version coming up. I've learned a lot that could be fixed/improved (although some may some obvious):
-'Testclamp' anything before clamping it with glue. Tolerances are thight.
-Don't rely on the sketchup file to be 100% correct, do your own measurements. Get the dimensions on the tweeter cut out wrong by 0.5mm and it'll fall trough. My measurements gave 94mm cutout woofer, 33mm outer diameter tweeter, 32,5mm tweeter cutout.
-Don't mount anything that you haven't tested. Bit obvious but test things multiple times before mounting.
-Terminals from the electronics to the speakers compartiment really worked well.
-Spread glue evenly with your fingers. Apply sealeant where possible.
-When mounting the woofers: allign from the front side, press firmly and turn baffle over, put some weight on it, apply sealant trough the mounting holes untill fully filled, seal all around, scrape off any excess with your fingers.
-Don't forget the speaker cloth in between the baffles if you want it! I did ;p
-Use a fuse. As always, but it's really jammed in the electronics compartiment. Shorts can occur. And use heat shrink where possible, it looks professional and it prevents shorts.
-Plan out everything beforehand, it saves time and mistakes when building.
Oh and if you can, get your enclosure CNC'd or lasercut. The tabbed box design is soooo handy when putting things together. Plus it looks nice, is sturdy and your wood is cut accurately.
There sure will be a 'deluxe' version coming up
. I've learned a lot that could be fixed/improved (although some may some obvious):-'Testclamp' anything before clamping it with glue. Tolerances are thight.
-Don't rely on the sketchup file to be 100% correct, do your own measurements. Get the dimensions on the tweeter cut out wrong by 0.5mm and it'll fall trough. My measurements gave 94mm cutout woofer, 33mm outer diameter tweeter, 32,5mm tweeter cutout.
-Don't mount anything that you haven't tested. Bit obvious but test things multiple times before mounting.
-Terminals from the electronics to the speakers compartiment really worked well.
-Spread glue evenly with your fingers. Apply sealeant where possible.
-When mounting the woofers: allign from the front side, press firmly and turn baffle over, put some weight on it, apply sealant trough the mounting holes untill fully filled, seal all around, scrape off any excess with your fingers.
-Don't forget the speaker cloth in between the baffles if you want it! I did ;p
-Use a fuse. As always, but it's really jammed in the electronics compartiment. Shorts can occur. And use heat shrink where possible, it looks professional and it prevents shorts.
-Plan out everything beforehand, it saves time and mistakes when building.
Oh and if you can, get your enclosure CNC'd or lasercut. The tabbed box design is soooo handy when putting things together. Plus it looks nice, is sturdy and your wood is cut accurately.
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It also depends a little on how you want to mount the tweeter. For example if you want speaker cloth to protect the tweeter. You need to cut the hole 33mm, wrap the cloth on the tweeter and mount it from the inside instead of from the outside. You then you (epoxy) glue to hold it in place and seal it.
But it's not an easy build as I said several times. Tolerances are very tight.
The cloth between the 2 6mm layers is a good option. If you use a round-over tool on the woofer cut-outs and route out 0.7mm to 1mm on the outer layer on the inside side after rounding over you can also fit a 5" grill (most standard 5" grills would fit but not if they're 5.25" or larger). And you can even use the cloth on grill trick where you spray the grill with spray-on contact glue and fit a good looking speaker cloth on top of the grill before mounting it in between the baffle layers in the routed out groove (as described above).
But it's not an easy build as I said several times. Tolerances are very tight.
The cloth between the 2 6mm layers is a good option. If you use a round-over tool on the woofer cut-outs and route out 0.7mm to 1mm on the outer layer on the inside side after rounding over you can also fit a 5" grill (most standard 5" grills would fit but not if they're 5.25" or larger). And you can even use the cloth on grill trick where you spray the grill with spray-on contact glue and fit a good looking speaker cloth on top of the grill before mounting it in between the baffle layers in the routed out groove (as described above).
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Please note that I didn't build it exactly to spec (8ohm woofer, 220uf cap).
The kick, slaps and drums in beats really shine. The ported seems to go somewhat lower but I prefer the Micro, you don't get real bass anyway. The Micro really 'hits'. Also cone excursion is much more controlled compared to ported, handy when you have friends pushing it with some bassboost enabled. Due to it's compactness and opposed magnets its really strong, I'm not worried about breaking it with normal use at all.
And it's really small, so small that it fits in my scooter's helmet space
The kick, slaps and drums in beats really shine. The ported seems to go somewhat lower but I prefer the Micro, you don't get real bass anyway. The Micro really 'hits'. Also cone excursion is much more controlled compared to ported, handy when you have friends pushing it with some bassboost enabled. Due to it's compactness and opposed magnets its really strong, I'm not worried about breaking it with normal use at all.
And it's really small, so small that it fits in my scooter's helmet space
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Hi, I managed to get sound to come out of the amp, I had D1 in reverse. So I corrected that, and I now have sound coming through, But it is very quiet coming out. and it sounds distorted at anything above 70% volume. Both my goldwood GW-1058 and piezo Goldwood GT-1001, have the same volume output. Any ideas why it is so quiet? It basically sounds like it is not being amplified at all, and is just feeding the sound from my phone.
Anyone experienced the rattle i have in the video i posted few days ago ?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-544.html#post3995361
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-544.html#post3995361
That is sad, i was hoping that it was not the case. I have had the drivers mounted to the baffle and they have been sitting there for two years before i got the chance to continue with the project. I can think of few things that caused this :
1. They have been sitting in an humid emvironment (a basement) few months, maybe that did something to them.
2. They were DOA
3. I have used a wrong acryl that was corrosive ? All the danish supplied "Acrylfugemasse" are those not non corrosive like the ones you buy at JemFix, Haraldnyborg and Bauhaus ?
Now that i have to change the driver or drivers (i think i heard simmilar rattle on two more) can someone tell me what exactly should i look at the "Acrylfugemasse" that sais it's non corrosive ? A specific chemical compound ?
@Saturnus have you seen this problem often ? You are sure it's not because i am somehow pushing it in an area where it can't perform ?
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There are many thing that could have caused it. The only way to find out is to take it apart so that you can see if there's rust in the VC gap, if the magnets have shifted slightly, if the VC former is damaged from being pushed in too far (either mechanically or electrically), if there's bubbling on the VC insulator material, and many other problems that can occur.
Even if you do find out exactly what the problem is, it's still not certain you can actually find the exact cause.
Even if you do find out exactly what the problem is, it's still not certain you can actually find the exact cause.
Ok thank you for the response. I'll have to check my other drivers to see how they behave.
What should i look on acrylfugemasse to make sure it's non corrosive ? Anything specific ?
I have already stated this a few times before, and frankly these types of questions are why hardware stores have sales personnel to guide you.
It must be without acetic acid (eddikesyre). That is all.