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 Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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HifiBoyDenmark
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Saturnus Actually the amp6 (or any other TA2020, TA2021 or TA2024) uses about 360mA The calculation is pretty simple, it just assumes an average music level at -10dB (-9dB dynamic gaussian signal normalized to -1dB). So it's just V^2/(Z*10) to have the power consumption of both channels at full music power output. That's 300mA. To that you add the quiescent current consumption which for the TA2020/2021/2024 is 60mA, so 360mA total (assuming the amp has no LED to indicate power, otherwise add 20mA). For the above amp, assuming the same battery, the output will be the same since the supply voltage is the same so the load consumption is also the same at 300mA but quiescent for the TP2050 chipset is 185mA plus the LEDs beside the potentiometer which uses 40mA so 525mA total. So about 50% more consumption at the same maximum power output. However, the interesting thing is that the idle consumption is totally different; amp6 in idle uses 60mA, the above amp uses 225mA in idle. Almost 4 times as much.
thank you very much! again

Saturnus
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
 Originally Posted by gmarsh Cool. The 120mm hole for the speaker magnets in your Sketchup drawing won't do for the speakers, but I hope anyone building the Boominator and using the GW1058s will notice that in a hurry.
You'll also notice that you don't need the magnet cut-out with the GW1058s because they're shallower than the original HP10Ws so they wont actually reach the center brace

You should cut-out a piece of wood to put on either side of the center brace, 12mm (0.5") so that the magnet is in direct contact with center brace on the GW1058s. This can be done from the speaker cut-outs you have left from the sides.

aaroe
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
Quote:
 Originally Posted by gmarsh I'm considering four of these in series/parallel for mine, giving 21 chinawatts of solar power. They lack the connector "box" that the Sparkfun panel has which makes routing the top a bit easier: 5W Monocrystal Solar Panel 12V Battery Charge 5.3 Watt [5.2W] - \$30.26 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce I'm also considering bare 3x6" solar panels embedded in the top. You could fit 15 in the top, giving close to 30 watts. Maximum power voltage will be ~7.5V so you'll need a boost mode MPPT charger like a ST SPV1020. There's also lots of 20W monocrystalline panels kicking around that'll fit the top, eg: 20W Mono-Crystalline Solar Power Panel with 12V Charger Controller - Solar Power Panels
That China-panel has the perfect dimentions to fit the boominator only problem is, that its monocrystal. I think I'll stick to a larger external amorpheous panel as mentioned earlier.

 28th December 2011, 06:06 AM #2514 aaroe   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Aarhus, Denmark Btw, I forgot to ask you guys, what kind of glue is recommended around the edge between the speaker, speaker grid and the cabinet, if you understand...? Besides the glue, I'm planning on using unbraco or torx bolts through the cabinet, tightened with a nut on the back side. This should hold the speaker in place, so the main purpose for the glue is actually just to make the jointing airtight.
 29th December 2011, 11:46 AM #2515 aaroe   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Aarhus, Denmark Anyone who has an estimate on how much juice this voltmeter uses? Is it worth the coolness, or is it a power drainer? 2.2" LCD Digital Panel Voltmeter with Blue Backlight (7.2~20V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
kblnig
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Oct 2010
Quote:
 Originally Posted by aaroe Anyone who has an estimate on how much juice this voltmeter uses? Is it worth the coolness, or is it a power drainer? 2.2" LCD Digital Panel Voltmeter with Blue Backlight (7.2~20V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
I would make a switch for it turn it on if you need to see the status on your battery and then flip the switch when done

gmarsh
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Halifax, NS
Quote:
 Originally Posted by aaroe Anyone who has an estimate on how much juice this voltmeter uses? Is it worth the coolness, or is it a power drainer? 2.2" LCD Digital Panel Voltmeter with Blue Backlight (7.2~20V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
I'd estimate 10mA for voltage regulator and micro, and 20mA for LED backlight, for 30mA total. As mentioned already, I'd put it on a switch.

 29th December 2011, 09:19 PM #2518 aaroe   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Aarhus, Denmark Thanks for the replies... I'm definitely gonna put it on a switch :-)
 29th December 2011, 09:36 PM #2519 Kostecki   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Roskilde We've got a homemade voltmeter on our boominator so we have this switch: ProSwitch - Vandalsikret stålkontakt, 1P OFF-(ON) Ø16 Hvid It's on off-(on) switch so the voltmeter is only on when the button is pushed until you release it again. This way we don't have to worry about drunk people forgetting to turn it off
aaroe
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Kostecki We've got a homemade voltmeter on our boominator so we have this switch: ProSwitch - Vandalsikret stålkontakt, 1P OFF-(ON) Ø16 Hvid It's on off-(on) switch so the voltmeter is only on when the button is pushed until you release it again. This way we don't have to worry about drunk people forgetting to turn it off
Good idea :-)

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