What other equipment is attached aside from the amp itself?
A voltmeter/ampere-meter can draw as much power as the amp on idle depending on type. If used to recharge several smart phones every day that'll also draw a substantial amount of power, actually about 50% more than the amp running full tilt while it recharges.
Btw, the 10Ah lifepo4 is exactly the same physical size as a 7Ah SLA (and weighs exactly half as much). You can use 2 in parallel. Another advantage of lifepo4 is that the nominal capacity is the actual capacity. In SLAs you can only use it down to about 80-85% of it's full nominal capacity if you don't want to damage the battery.
A voltmeter/ampere-meter can draw as much power as the amp on idle depending on type. If used to recharge several smart phones every day that'll also draw a substantial amount of power, actually about 50% more than the amp running full tilt while it recharges.
Btw, the 10Ah lifepo4 is exactly the same physical size as a 7Ah SLA (and weighs exactly half as much). You can use 2 in parallel. Another advantage of lifepo4 is that the nominal capacity is the actual capacity. In SLAs you can only use it down to about 80-85% of it's full nominal capacity if you don't want to damage the battery.
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It's a little bit their fault as all they need to do is pay for the certification. That however would probably add to the battery cost.
Well, i think i will ask around a little here in Norway first, if i am gone use a lot of $ on batteries i might as well get them custom built
Edit: Thanks, WesleyK PM sent
Goo
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Behringer MicroAMP HA400
If someone needs a little extra boost, play el guitar and get a few more channels , the Behringer MicroAMP HA400 stereo headphone amp is a good match. I just tried it on my first Mini built, its dead quiet, and it runs nice of the cigarette socket 12v out. Now guitar is plenty loud with 50% volume on the Behringer MicroAMP HA400.
I have split the input channel on the mini and have one 1/4 mono socket for the guitar.
The Behringer MicroAMP HA400 has one input and 4 output channels with separate volume controls, and sound great. My son said sound was better than the clean setting on his old little potable VOX guitar amp. (I used yuanying ta2020 in the mini)
I have a solar charge regulator with lead out to the 12v cigarette socket, and use 12v the cigarette socket as a common power source. I have not yet experienced ground loop / noise problems with this set up. I can charge mini via separate dc socket to charge controller and play, i can charge mobile phone and play, i can charge mini+phone and play, and no noise no problems so far
Note this is with a 15v wall adapter, with a 19v pc power supply i get pulsating charge noise, probably from the cheap Biltema solar charge controller. I hope it stays quiet in the sunshine... I will have to wait until summer to find out
goo
If someone needs a little extra boost, play el guitar and get a few more channels , the Behringer MicroAMP HA400 stereo headphone amp is a good match. I just tried it on my first Mini built, its dead quiet, and it runs nice of the cigarette socket 12v out. Now guitar is plenty loud with 50% volume on the Behringer MicroAMP HA400.
I have split the input channel on the mini and have one 1/4 mono socket for the guitar.
The Behringer MicroAMP HA400 has one input and 4 output channels with separate volume controls, and sound great. My son said sound was better than the clean setting on his old little potable VOX guitar amp. (I used yuanying ta2020 in the mini)
I have a solar charge regulator with lead out to the 12v cigarette socket, and use 12v the cigarette socket as a common power source. I have not yet experienced ground loop / noise problems with this set up. I can charge mini via separate dc socket to charge controller and play, i can charge mobile phone and play, i can charge mini+phone and play, and no noise no problems so far
Note this is with a 15v wall adapter, with a 19v pc power supply i get pulsating charge noise, probably from the cheap Biltema solar charge controller. I hope it stays quiet in the sunshine... I will have to wait until summer to find out
goo
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Ok, so new theory re blown drivers on one channel: perhaps the epoxy travelled down the vented pole piece after gluing to centre brace and stuck a cone in place? Then burn out happened to the other as a result of inability to work with other driver - similar to what happens when they're out of phase?
The other theory is that because of the bipole gluing, the magnet hole is blocked and a major avenue for heat loss is not allowed. Is it possible they overheated this way? It doesn't seem like anyone else has had a problem with this design though - although I am in very hot Australia and it got hot in summer.
The other theory is that because of the bipole gluing, the magnet hole is blocked and a major avenue for heat loss is not allowed. Is it possible they overheated this way? It doesn't seem like anyone else has had a problem with this design though - although I am in very hot Australia and it got hot in summer.
No. It's not a problem for those taking their Boominators to Burning Man Festival which is even hotter than the typical Australian outback. Remember, there's under 1W of continuous power going to each HP10W when playing at full power.
I generally recommend plastic padding to glue the driver to the center brace because it's a thick putty that is easy to work with. You can use epoxy but then you have to carefully apply it in the right amount.
It's not. We ran over the problem solving a few hundred posts ago or about a year ago when it was first built.
But I thought you checked that last year?
You just change the channels around. If the the channel not working changes then it's either the cable or the amp that is the problem, not the speakers. In the case that the problem is not the speaker then you just try a different signal cable, if no change then it's the amp that the problem.