I'm having a hard time finding double adhesive heat conducting tape. Maybe it's because I don't know what to search for in danish (searching danish sites).
Anyway... I've found this: https://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H16982
Is this it?
Anyway... I've found this: https://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H16982
Is this it?
Is this it?
No. Look in computer supply stores. They are most often used to glue heatsinks onto RAM chips.
Oh, I forgot. This is for 2nd order filter so remember to inverse the tweeter.
Higher order filters than 2nd order is not recommended.
If you search ebay for non-glass solar panels, you'll find a rectangular 5 watt and a nearly square 5 watt. These are light weight and there's no glass to break.
You can put a schottky diode in series to the cord of each solar panel.
Then you can wire them all in parallel. This also allows you to mount additional solar panels on the sides of Boominator. Each panel has its own series schottky so that if one panel is in the shade, it cannot hold back the rest.
Solar panels in series is just like resistors in series--insufficient current.
Solar panels in parallel is just like resistors in parallel--current is doubled.
P.S.
Series schottky for solar panel can be:
Put 1n5819 in parallel with a larger schottky, such as a 3 ampere model, and this combo will provide absolutely minimum loss. Treat this team as if it were a single diode. You'll get a little voltage boost. The 1n5819 is too frail to do the job all by itself and would voltage drop severely under load; however, a combo with 1n5819||SR345 (one unit) will run the 1n5819 in shade, but lay over the 1n5819 in full sun and this high current condition is "caught" by the 3 ampere schottky, preventing damage to the 1n5819 and also preserving efficiency. There, you get minimum loss in all conditions.
When I paralleled 1n5819's directly onto my SR260's, my voltage went from 18v to 19v, IN THE SHADE.
P.P.S.
I am still puzzling out what sort of solar regulator to use. The CMP does work but takes one or more 10,000uF caps at output to smooth the PWM chopping signal into useful DC and an additional series diode to defeat the onboard battery monitor to avoid running down the battery when in the dark. Oh boy. Surely there is something more convenient? One possible benefit of the CMP is that total voltage drop, including the regulator, the 10,000uF caps at output, and the schottky in-between the charger and battery is 0.8 volts. That is rather amazingly good for a regulator. Another benefit is the blue box with little dial (a trimmer) under the hood to set whatever voltage is needed by your battery.
An additional inconvenience is lack of current management, so when in full sun your 10 watts to 20 watts worth of solar panels and pulse mode (chopper) charger with enough force to charge up a big truck battery. . . sends that much force into whatever little battery is in the boomer. Kerblooie! It is almost enough in the shade and far too much in the sun.
Not exactly.
PV cells in series multiplies voltage and multiplies current in parallel.
The afore mentioned Phocos solar charger perhaps?
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Thank you, it seem to do it. Any sugestion for a musicplayer that have higher output than mobilephones?
Bjoern
Nearly finished my attempt! just after priming and sanding it, then i will be wiring it all up. I tested it when all panels were fixed and ohh yea its LOUD. but im looking into the solar panals i can put on it. Was thinking of having two on top, was thinking of these:
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Would they be any good? or does anyone have a cheaper better recommended ones?
I will post pictures of the build when i have it sprayed and looking the part, but sure heres a pic of it primed:
So any suggestions would be appreciated for the solar panels and also would i need a regulator for the 2 panels?
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Would they be any good? or does anyone have a cheaper better recommended ones?
I will post pictures of the build when i have it sprayed and looking the part, but sure heres a pic of it primed:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So any suggestions would be appreciated for the solar panels and also would i need a regulator for the 2 panels?
Is this the one http://www.ebay.com/itm/5watt-encap...868?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccc74d26c ?
How do I know if they are amporpheus?
So two of these panels would be sufficent to charge the batteries? I will finish off the build and then add the solar panels in a few weeks. I will have to look into how to wire the panels to the batteries but i will do a drawing and look for conformation when i go to install them. Thanks.
One of those in full sun will charge a big car battery. There is more than enough current to destroy a small battery. However, four of these in the shade will not charge a car battery although that is just enough for a maintenance charge.
If that wasn't complicated enough, 6 of those in full sun will run the Boominator at max. However, 21 volts is too high.
Problem1: Needs voltage regulation (except for amplifiers that list 21v as permissible in the datasheet, and batteries of at least 18v, such as cordless drill batteries).
Problem2: Enough current to run an amp will "hot charge" a little battery far too fast, ruining the battery (except that motorcycle and ride-on mower batteries will probably withstand fast charge current since they do withstand alternators/generators).
This is not the fault of the panels; however, just panels is a really incomplete answer.
Those inexpensive panels do vary by sample, as expected for that price, and the fix is that each panel needs its own private series schottky diode, so that the weakest panel cannot hinder the strongest panel.
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I don't know anything about filters. Downloaded a 2 way plugin for the mini dsp and satt parametre as you sugested. The sound became mutch better. Just wonder, how high can i play on this? Do i get a warning before anything goes to hell? I conected a small Xenyx 302 usb and it seems that there are no limit on how loud it became XD insane! Im testing it with cheap Biltema 12 7,2 Ah bateries but they work realy well i think.
Im not able to hear any difference between 12-24v, maby jus a tiny bit, but chip is getting hot in 24v mode. When i connect amp to batery there is some kind of welding feel to it, like when you short something, is this normal? My awake diode does not light up.
Tested in a large sportshall today and it did the job as our normal PA setup, hell i brought it outside and it played even better
.This is a genius build cant thank Mr Saturnus enough for his effort on this.
Hopeforly i will get a chanse to compare with normal Boominator or maby i build one just to compare.
No. The panels ron1 are looking at are optimal. They will not fry a standard Boominator battery. They produce sufficient power even in the shade as they are amorphous panel and not crystalline. And the voltage is optimal for changing lead batteries without overcharging them. They also have built in Schottky diode.
Just one thing to note. Don't disconnect the battery while playing. The panels will fry the amp if the batteries aren't connected.
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Yeah we made the middle compartment wider. Actually we have room for 4x12V 9Ah batteries. (2 pairs of 2pieces in series giving us 24V 18Ah or 12V 36Ah) so we have a lot of power in our boominator
And just ask if you have any questions about the drawer we made!
Hey ThokN
How do you make the swap between amp6 and amp9? is it only the power- or also the speakers connection you make the swap on?
Hey ThokN
You have to switch power, inputs and output, unless you want a really short-lived system.
The little one, she needs a voltage regulator.Hey ThokN
Or, hookup to a 12v battery like with a DPDT switch that could have it use one OR the other 12v battery. A DPDT Center Off switch from the auto parts store can do it (switch wiring=amp onto center hookup, one battery onto Up, the other battery Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the speakers (switch wiring=speakers onto center hookup, big amp UP, little amp Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the inputs (switch wiring=input jack onto center hookup, big amp up, little amp down)
So, if we had a convenient 6 pole double throw switch. . .
Earlier I posted several times about an efficient non-tripath class D from Sure with wide range voltage tolerance, and one of those might be more convenient than two tripath.
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Hi.
Amp9-doesn't play loud enough whitout Berhinger Xenyx 302. Whit this conected i am able to blow 2A fuse in 12V. Is it ok with 5A? how can i make it not play sub 100HZ?
When conected to my phone at max volume and i swap betveen 12-24V there is not mutch difference in volume. Is this due to input signal to low?
Bjoern
Amp9-doesn't play loud enough whitout Berhinger Xenyx 302. Whit this conected i am able to blow 2A fuse in 12V. Is it ok with 5A? how can i make it not play sub 100HZ?
When conected to my phone at max volume and i swap betveen 12-24V there is not mutch difference in volume. Is this due to input signal to low?
Bjoern