Now have i tried with the amp you suggested saturnus, and the vibrating sound is gone, but now the sound isn't loud enough.
You suggested this amp: MKll TA2024 Fully Finished Tested PCB Power Amplifier Board 2x15W | eBay
do you know a more powerfull amp?
You suggested this amp: MKll TA2024 Fully Finished Tested PCB Power Amplifier Board 2x15W | eBay
do you know a more powerfull amp?
Hmm i just ordered a fuse and fuse holder. Oh well, better safe than sorry
I also just ordered the 9800mAh Li-ion and the TA2024 MKII
I am going to build it out of 14mm oukume marine ply, as i have a sheet lying around. But i was thinking of routing out some circles on the inside, in order to keep the weight down a bit. Here's the drawing Jacks qubinator by Jack - 3D Warehouse
Without any type of acoustics or engineering degree, I am guessing that this will also be a stronger construction, and the routings may improve acoustic damping in the cabinet? Or am i a complete idiot?
By the way, should i just use epoxy to glue the drivers to the wooden block in the center?
If you live in Copenhagen then visit STOF2000. I have earlier bought some synthetic wadding from there. It's also very cheap - like 20 DKK per 100 grams or something.
I worry that epoxy would eventually crack and rattle. However, Liquid Nail (waterproof original/outdoor formula) remains slightly elastic for 17 years, but it is much firmer than other siliconized glues.
This is a guess.
Yes! TA2021, (Muse) has a wider voltage range and higher voltage means more power for halfinator and Qubinator.
If using digiplayer source like mp3, iphone, etc. . . be prepared to modify gain settings or else buy a preamp. Like almost every audio amplifier, the gain in stock condition is set for super loud 80's era CD players, not weaker modern sources. And, bigger voltage in your power amp does not make your iphone more powerful.
Inside the Muse I25w. . . are some trimmers and full size resistors. I do not know what the trimmers do Gain? offset?
However, there are full size resistors that are easy to replace to set your gain, UP LOUDER just by replacing two of those resistors.
P.S.
The speaker does not play down to 20hz. To conserve amplifier power (so that you can play louder), you can replace the input caps (they're easily found directly in line with the potentiometer) to a smaller capacitance figure so that the amp will do only as much bass as the speaker needs instead of trying to push super low pitches that the speaker wouldn't output anyway.
You can also add output caps, simply a large capacitor(s) series to the speaker and choose this size to roll off pitches the speaker wouldn't output--Conveniently, that little trick also puts the offset to zero.
With both filters set to eliminate wasted power (remove pitches from 0hz through 44hz), the amplifier will have more power to spare.
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I was actually wondering - if a speaker with a paper cone gets wet, is it then possible for the cone to dissolve when set into motion by a music signal at high volume?
I'm thinking mostly of a PA speaker like the HP-10W. The outer ring of the cone seems to be laminated with something - waterproof maybe? I guess PA speakers are made to be able to handle variations of misuse. I just never dared to pour water over a speaker before and turn the volume all the way up and ignore it.
I'm thinking mostly of a PA speaker like the HP-10W. The outer ring of the cone seems to be laminated with something - waterproof maybe? I guess PA speakers are made to be able to handle variations of misuse. I just never dared to pour water over a speaker before and turn the volume all the way up and ignore it.
Hi,
What cables should I use from my battery to the amp?
Can't find a pre-assembled cable??
My amp is a MUSE M20 EX2 TA2020 T-Amp Stereo Amplifier 20Wx2|eBay
- Hanne
What cables should I use from my battery to the amp?
Can't find a pre-assembled cable??
My amp is a MUSE M20 EX2 TA2020 T-Amp Stereo Amplifier 20Wx2|eBay
- Hanne
Almost certainly DC offset. The DC offset trimmers are tied to the input resistors and usually located close to them, as in your photo.
Been thinking of getting one of those batteries for a while, but nobody's come back to me WRT whether they're actually any good.
I'll be interested to hear your experience with them.
Cheers
Chris
For the price they're very good. If you remember the limitation that actual capacity is around 65% of nominal capacity with a C/20 load. Less with an even higher load.
The supplied (float) charger is utter crap though. And I can't stress enough the importance of getting a real charger that will not degrade the batteries with every charge.
Current limit is about C/2. Remember this. It will shutdown and you have to toggle the on-off switch if exceeded which is annoying if it's inside a cabinet.
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What charger would you recommend? And what does "Current limit is about C/2" mean?
Some more questions about the qubinator:
Why the closed cabinet? wouldn't it be better vented, considering it is so small?
Why TA2024 II instead of Amp6? Price? If so, will it be a big upgrade going for an amp6? (I can solder).
Smart Chargers for Li-Ion / LiMnNi / LiNiCoMn Batteries
Real Ah rating (C=capacity) divided by 2.
To make it as small as possible
The TA2024 is fine to drive 8 ohms loads
Ahh ok, thanks
I dont see how making a hole in the cabinet will make it bigger?
Ok, but the Amp6 is 25W vs. the 15W TA2024. Wont this give a bit more output?
Then you have to re-read basic physical principles. Specifically you need to understand that a bass reflex is not "a hole in the cabinet". It's a carefully calculated Helmholtz resonator.
No. Again, you need to understand the basic physical principles. If impedance and supply voltage is the same then 2 amplifiers based on the same chip have the same output. The TA2020 and TA2024 is exactly the same chip internally. The only difference is the housing. The housing dictates it's thermal properties, and thereby how low impedances the chip can be loaded with (and to some degree how high voltages it can be supplied with). At 8 ohms load and 12V supply voltage both chips are well within their thermal limits and therefore will have exactly the same output power.
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Ok thanks for the help. Now i just need to find a way of getting my hands on some HP-10T's. Road trip to Sweden anyone?
AND: Ljudia is a great company with great service. I've bought my HP-10W and grills there every time I needed them. Shipping costs are also decent. I would recommend buying from them.
Thats funny, i wrote an email to them a week ago, and still haven't received a reply.