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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 10th February 2011, 01:08 PM   #811
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Thranemeister, the Amp6 is quite easy to solder. There are a few surface mount components, but they are quite large and so no special skills are required. I think it took me two hours or so, being extra careful.

Thokn, Amp6 cannot be bridged, as I think the amp is already bridged internally.

With the right switching (relays, maybe, so you can switch around speakers and battery connections as well as inputs), you could add an Amp6 and switch back and forth between the two, going to the more powerful amp when the party is really rocking, and the Amp6 when it's more like background music--if it ever gets that mellow at Roskilde.

Also, do be sure you have enough gain in the system. Might want to add a gain/preamp stage such as the Arjenhelder tube buffer if you don't. Reasonable price, runs on 12v, doesn't consume too much power.

--Buckapound
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Old 10th February 2011, 01:49 PM   #812
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckapound View Post
With the right switching (relays, maybe, so you can switch around speakers and battery connections as well as inputs), you could add an Amp6 and switch back and forth between the two, going to the more powerful amp when the party is really rocking, and the Amp6 when it's more like background music--if it ever gets that mellow at Roskilde.
Yes that would be a possibility. We have installed a 12V/24V switch on our Amp9, so that saves some power when not playing loud. But still the high idle consumption is bad. Don't know if installing a Amp6 also is worth the hassle for us this year, but we'll see.
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Originally Posted by Buckapound View Post
Also, do be sure you have enough gain in the system. Might want to add a gain/preamp stage such as the Arjenhelder tube buffer if you don't. Reasonable price, runs on 12v, doesn't consume too much power.

--Buckapound
We already have a passive gain-thing installed
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Old 10th February 2011, 02:30 PM   #813
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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I just thought about this some more...in the current Boominator, we installed the amp as a box with power and output connectors so that it could be taken out of the Boominator anytime. We could just make the exact same box but with an Amp6 inside instead. That way we could just swap the amps depending on if we need to play very loud or not.

The boxes would then have 2 power-input connectors (one for each battery), so that inside them, the Amp6 will be parallel wired for 12V and the Amp9 will be serial wired for 24V.
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Old 10th February 2011, 04:53 PM   #814
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Remember that the power consumption chart made earlier was with the amp9b running on 24V. Half those idle and max consumption figures if it runs on 12V instead. So you could just switch between 12V and 24V.

Of course switching between amps instead would be ideal but in that case I'd very much suggest putting in a safe guard so that you don't accidentally plug the amp6b to 24V which will fry it.

There'd be absolutely no benefits on having 2 amp6b's powering either side.

Quite frankly, I don't know any amps with the same output power as the amp9b that is more efficient. Many people are very happy with having Sure amps on 12V even though the have 340mA idle consumption.

Us Roskilde people are different simple because Roskilde is a 8 days event with party every night, and not a one-off one-nighter once in a while. So we need something that has the very best efficiency.

It's for that purpose I suggest the amp6b (or any TA202x power amp really) because they have superior efficiency. It's for the same reason I suggest the amp9b. It's the most efficient amp I know off that will give you more output power as an alternative.

EDIT: I've found an easy way to make the needed safeguard if you go with the amp switching plan. Have both batteries connect to both the amp cases with separate connectors. Then inside each amp case you either parallel or serial connect the connectors from the batteries to get either 12V or 24V. It's not ideal seen from a battery load balancing POW but if you keep the wires for the batteries relatively short and very importantly of exactly the same length, it be ok. And it's 100% sure way to prevent the wrong voltage being connected.

Last edited by Saturnus; 10th February 2011 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 13th February 2011, 04:21 PM   #815
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
EDIT: I've found an easy way to make the needed safeguard if you go with the amp switching plan. Have both batteries connect to both the amp cases with separate connectors. Then inside each amp case you either parallel or serial connect the connectors from the batteries to get either 12V or 24V. It's not ideal seen from a battery load balancing POW but if you keep the wires for the batteries relatively short and very importantly of exactly the same length, it be ok. And it's 100% sure way to prevent the wrong voltage being connected.
Exactly my plan I still think that the bonus of adding an Amp6 is worth it, even compared to Amp9 in 12V.
Didn't know about the importance of equal cable length, so thanks for that!
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Old 13th February 2011, 08:40 PM   #816
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(What about 41Hz Amp4 with PS4 regulators?)
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Old 13th February 2011, 09:07 PM   #817
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(What about 41Hz Amp4 with PS4 regulators?)
The TP200x chipset has slightly higher idle consumption than the TA4100A. With a single STA317B (which has slight lower idle than the TK2050) it's 250mA, and with 2 STA317Bs for 4 channels, it's 320mA.

External regulators from the PS4 will just add even more power consumption unless there's a way to completely shutdown the internal regulator which I doubt but even so it's probably only 20-30mA difference, if that.
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Old 13th February 2011, 10:03 PM   #818
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The TP200x chipset has slightly higher idle consumption than the TA4100A. With a single STA317B (which has slight lower idle than the TK2050) it's 250mA, and with 2 STA317Bs for 4 channels, it's 320mA.

External regulators from the PS4 will just add even more power consumption unless there's a way to completely shutdown the internal regulator which I doubt but even so it's probably only 20-30mA difference, if that.
OK! Thanks for the info! I thought the external 5V was the only one - so is there another power rail equivalent to VN10, generated internally?
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Old 13th February 2011, 10:26 PM   #819
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OK! Thanks for the info! I thought the external 5V was the only one - so is there another power rail equivalent to VN10, generated internally?


There's no VN10 needed for the TC200x chipset as far as I know.
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Old 14th February 2011, 10:26 AM   #820
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There's no VN10 needed for the TC200x chipset as far as I know.
Hmm! OK - Which internal regulator is it that's taking causing the brunt of the current consumption?
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