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#481 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Copenhagen
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Duh, my mistake. Was too focused on the dB ratings
![]() I still hope you /someone can answer the other questions though
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#482 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:
The ingenious part is that the tweeter filter will be a stopband filter, and you can connect a passive external subwoofer to those 2 channels. The tweeters will also be connected in series to lower the sensitivity by 6 dB (those I will use are 101dB sensitivity so they'll match the woofers) and avoid using a series resistor. It'll only have a series cap on the passive side after the amp. The woofer output will remain unchanged. This setup will make sure that you can play slightly louder without using very much extra power. And that you can connect a passive subwoofer directly to it for more bass extension when you have a big party. Unfortunately when you double the voltage (from 12V to 24V) you not only quadruple the output power but also the consumption. And battery times below 9 hours from 2 12V 7Ah SLAs is completely unacceptable to me. |
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#483 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Copenhagen
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Ahaa, so it is mostly because of new features to your Boominator that you want the Amp9. And the features do sound nice!
I think that we will go with louder volume if we can. Quote:
The difference would then be that we could turn up the Amp9 further when the Amp6 would top-off, and of course increase the batteri consumption too? Since we will keep the volune lower than what an Amp6 is capable of most of the time anyway, the battery should still last a long time. |
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#484 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:
I will effectively do the same as you except that the higher voltage will be 18V (technically 19.2V from 6 LFP cells) and not 24V, and will be feed to the Boominator from the passive sub. So that it's only when you go into party mode by connecting the sub you have the option of playing really loud (well, louder, since the Boominator is already really loud by itself). 18V is twice the output power of 12V but technically there'd be no problem in feeding it 24V from the sub either. I just think it's a more elegant solution to have 2 different batteries. One set permanently in the Boominator and one permanently in the sub so they can be recharged seperately as needed. Last edited by Saturnus; 21st January 2010 at 05:55 PM. |
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#485 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
Too bad about the lower effeciency and higher idle consumption, but I know these amps are great compared to others anyway ![]() Regarding your design, it sounds very exciting to have the seperate sub. I think I will suggest this possibility to the others from my camp, but we would most likely not include the Sub this year, but we could however maybe prepare for a sub-expansion by building the boominator itself like you do, so it is ready to connect to a sub, and then maybe mext year just build the sub. We'll see. Anyway, I think I got the answers to most of my questions for now, and we will begin to design it with the Amp9. I will check this thread regularly though, to see if there are any news with your Boominator mkII, and we will surely have more questions as we progress. I'm also looking forward to the google sketch-up ![]() Thanks a lot! |
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#486 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
![]() I will start looking around and start building it for Roskilde! |
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#487 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Please tell me that you are going to make a new thread for the new boominator Saturnus
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#488 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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I wouldn't count on it as the mods will just merge the threads anyways.
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#489 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Hi,
Saturnus: I'll begin with complimenting you for the excellent design! I plan to build something similar for this years Roskilde. However I was wondering about the solar panels from Silicon solar that you used in the original design. I tried to order them directly from Silicon solar but was chocked by the shipping cost of 110$! From where did you order them? Or do you know some equivalent panels available in europe/nordic? One more thing: do you see any other reason than the reduced forward voltage drop to use a schottky diod instead of a regular with the solar panel connection? Guess it's HF characteristics won't be of any matter at least
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#490 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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jimtegel,
thanks a bunch. USD 110 in transport? I'm pretty sure I paid USD 140 plus import tax of USD 90 on top. That's just the price you pay to get something that is guarenteed to survive in space for 20 years ![]() I don't recommend getting them unless ultra-high efficiency and low weight is an absolute priority. You can get a 12V 15W amorphous solar panel with built-in protection diode that match the size of the cabinet exactly for less than SEK 1000 including freight. I'll see if I can find the link to the Swedish retailer I used last, excellent service there. |
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