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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 19th July 2013, 07:43 PM   #4131
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Default Central Brace - Magnets

Folks,

Simple question, noob here, I have read a lot in the couple last 2 or 3 days...., so after reading, viewing the Sketchup and several photos, I really need to clarify if the magnets are glue together (making a hole in the central brace) or each one glued to the central brace as a sandwich.

A picture is better so please let me know which is the one A or B

brace.jpg
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Old 19th July 2013, 08:16 PM   #4132
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I think I found the answer in post 1081

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
That's why I just realized it's much easier all the way around to just glue the magnets on the center brace instead and avoid most of the mounting problems.

That's what I'd do. I would not ditch the center brace as I think it's vital to keep the box as solid as possible.

I'll make an updated sketchup drawing over the weekend.
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Old 20th July 2013, 02:58 PM   #4133
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Default Half Boominator

If I go the half boominator way, I saw an schematics that shoulds an stereo setup but at the same time, I read from saturnus the having L and R in the same chamber could create undesirable effects when the bass is not exactly sync in both channels.

Would it be better to mix down the channels before entering in the AMP.

How will be the diagram, I read somewhere that I need to put some resistors in the input channels before summing them up, something like

L-----wwww------\_______________+
R-----wwww------/

Thanks
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Old 21st July 2013, 02:32 PM   #4134
7moore7 is offline 7moore7  United States
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I have a couple of questions on mine as I make a little progress...

First off, I have the amp6 Basic assembled and seems to be working. Except it's cutting out after about 30% volume when I wire in the GW-1058's. With some small car speakers I have, it goes much louder. What would be the reason for this? I should probably figure it out before I try to put it in a box. (edit: I'm working on this... turns out my original power source was pushing just over 9v so that was most of the problem. Still cuts out, but now at around 70% volume)

Second, I would like to design my box so that the GW-1058's touch each other on the magnet end like the original design. When I re-dimension everything, what else is important other than keeping the internal volume of the speaker box the same? Is this something I can mess with or am I playing with trouble?

Any advice would be helpful...

Last edited by 7moore7; 21st July 2013 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 26th July 2013, 11:44 AM   #4135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7moore7 View Post
First off, I have the amp6 Basic assembled and seems to be working. Except it's cutting out after about 30% volume when I wire in the GW-1058's. With some small car speakers I have, it goes much louder. What would be the reason for this? I should probably figure it out before I try to put it in a box. (edit: I'm working on this... turns out my original power source was pushing just over 9v so that was most of the problem. Still cuts out, but now at around 70% volume)
When input and amp are maxed it should preferably distort around 90% to ensure you get the maximum performance possible from the amplifier. Try going with a PSU giving 13-14 v. That would probably make you go a little louder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7moore7 View Post
Second, I would like to design my box so that the GW-1058's touch each other on the magnet end like the original design. When I re-dimension everything, what else is important other than keeping the internal volume of the speaker box the same? Is this something I can mess with or am I playing with trouble?

Any advice would be helpful...
Easiest way to do it would probably to slice a ring off a PVC tube like this:

Click the image to open in full size.

You can get those from a hardware stor, then drill some holes in it. Glue one between each woofer and center-bracer. Did that with another boominator-like build
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Old 26th July 2013, 12:25 PM   #4136
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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffsta View Post
Hey PressureFM- Your build looks great but I don't understand the purpose of all the Neutrik connectors for things that rarely get disconnected. Seems to add just add complexity & cost. Is it mostly an aesthetic thing? Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with that! Do you have more details and photos from your build in another thread? Cheers!
Well, it's mostly an aesthetic choice but also because my camp is "morons" when it comes to electronics (no pun intended, should any of them discover this thread).

This is the diyAudio forum, of course people are going overboard with stuff for their audio equipment

But I really like the simplicity of it and having a fool-proof connection.

Anything special you would like to see?

Quote:
Originally Posted by viktor89 View Post
Did you hide the step-up converter under the amp/miniDSP or is it not in? Nice build
I haven't installed any Step-Up converter (yet, but I have a Step Down converter to get 5V and 3.3V, which I am going to use for the USB Neutrik connector next to the Jack, and powering an AirPort Express for AirPlay), for now I use that switch to wire the batteries either in 12V (parallel) or 24V (series). The MiniDSP will run on anything from 4.5V to 24V no problem.
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Old 26th July 2013, 12:28 PM   #4137
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Nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by PressureFM View Post
The MiniDSP will run on anything from 4.5V to 24V no problem.
I would not run the minidsp on series batteries though, as those go above 24v when charged. But you probably know that (just thought I'd point it out to everyone)
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Old 26th July 2013, 12:52 PM   #4138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viktor89 View Post
Nice



I would not run the minidsp on series batteries though, as those go above 24v when charged. But you probably know that (just thought I'd point it out to everyone)
Yeah, I had it running with my little LiPo battery at Roskilde Festival
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Old 26th July 2013, 02:26 PM   #4139
gmarsh is offline gmarsh  Canada
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I'm curious about this step-up converter you're using - got a link?
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Old 26th July 2013, 11:16 PM   #4140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PressureFM View Post
AirPort Express for AirPlay
That sounds pretty cool. Do tell more - do you just power the AirPort express directly from the 3.3V source? Which AirPort Express do you use, and how much power does it use? (i.e. is it Roskilde-battery-friendly?)

I love all of those connectors - i'm quite the Neutrik fan myself

Last edited by Kostecki; 26th July 2013 at 11:42 PM.
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