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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 19th June 2013, 08:14 PM   #4061
Hafde is offline Hafde  Denmark
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sjælland
Default Broken amp

i really need some help with this one! last night i had it all hooked up, and it worked like a charm, it played loud and clear, no problems at all. i then realized the next day, that i had made a mistake in some wiring with a button, so ofc, i decided to fix it. BUT now, when it is all hooked up the way it should the only thing i get from my AMP6-basic Assembled is this annoying clicking noise. and only from the left piezo's. no sound from anything else! i have eliminated all other possibilities, it must be the amp, with the amp hooked up directly to the battery, with no wiring but + and - for the amp. I have a video, so you guys can hear, and see it. it is on the Boominator Facebook page

Also, when hooking my iphone up with the jack plug, and playing music, i still get nothing but the clicking sound.

PS. i am aware that the clicking noise is a short in the input or output wires according to the troubleshooting page, but as i bought it assembled, and it have worked like a charm before, and i have not touched anything it is not the soldering. I have also had it hooked up to a other pair of speakers, from my living room. Making sure NOTHING was short circuiting, and still with the same result. i have absolutely no clue of what to do. and with festival season coming up, i am pretty sad, as i can not afford another assembled AMP6, and i do not have the skills to solder one myself.

Thx in advance!

EDIT: Here is a link to the Video. View My Video

Last edited by Hafde; 19th June 2013 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 20th June 2013, 02:50 PM   #4062
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Whitstable, Kent, England
Default AMP6 failure

Unfortunately, after my initial excitement of a fully working AMP6, alas, I cant find out what is wrong with it, its dead.......

I've had to resort to reordering a ready made AMP6 (my boominator has been an expensive experiment).......

It hasn't put me off, I just know that I'm no good at electronics so I will be looking for a ready made AMP9 (I'm not even going to attempt it)....

I can see why people are attracted to cheap chinese amps, the one I'm using was £19 as opposed to £68 for an AMP6..... and it doesnt sound that bad.....

*BJ*
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Old 20th June 2013, 08:09 PM   #4063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brummiejon View Post
Unfortunately, after my initial excitement of a fully working AMP6, alas, I cant find out what is wrong with it, its dead.......

I've had to resort to reordering a ready made AMP6 (my boominator has been an expensive experiment).......

It hasn't put me off, I just know that I'm no good at electronics so I will be looking for a ready made AMP9 (I'm not even going to attempt it)....

I can see why people are attracted to cheap chinese amps, the one I'm using was £19 as opposed to £68 for an AMP6..... and it doesnt sound that bad.....

*BJ*
It's actually only €30 and a bit of elbow grease. The AMP6 Sneaky is really easy to solder
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Old 20th June 2013, 08:16 PM   #4064
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Whitstable, Kent, England
Quote:
Originally Posted by PressureFM View Post
It's actually only €30 and a bit of elbow grease. The AMP6 Sneaky is really easy to solder
I don't think that the AMP6 sneaky is any easier to solder than the basic..... I managed to **** that up and I'm 40 euros down..... I'm crap at electronics and I have to buy ready made..... I've learned nothing by makin my first amp because I can't figure out what is wrong with it so its pointless building another....
BJ
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Old 22nd June 2013, 11:33 AM   #4065
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Join Date: May 2011
I went and bought all of the wood, and got it cut at the vendor to get accurate measures.
Got home and did a quick stacking of wood and drivers (GW-1058), to match how the boominator would be put together. But I seem to be having a problem, since there is a gap of around 5mm between the stack and the side panel, this being without the grills that would add a little extra.

I have measured the end pieces and they are exactly 276*276mm as the Sketchup shows, and with the wood being 12mm thick, the only thing I can think of as a source of error is the drivers.

So my question is: Will these 5mm be gained when the rubber gasket on the drivers is compressed when gluing the whole thing together, or do I have a problem?

I tried "sitting" on the stack to compress the gaskets, and it seems they just about get compressed enough, but this worries me as it seems it would put a lot of stress on the glue?

Additionally, I have yet to see how people get the wiring from speaker compartments to electronic compartment? Do I simply but them between the middle pieces and the lid, or drill a small hole to put the wire through, and then seal with silicone (non solvent) ?

Edit:
If this gap won't be closed by compression, then I might think it is due to the drivers not being completely flat on the back, here they are thicker around the middle of the back of the drivers.

Pictures of the stackup:
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Arbitrage; 22nd June 2013 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 22nd June 2013, 12:25 PM   #4066
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Hi. The GW1058 drivers have been updated to accommodate higher Xlim (maximum cone excursion limit). It's the bump on the back.

Solution is pretty straight forward and simple. You just route out that bump or cut a hole big enough in each of the blocks of wood between the magnets and center brace. Routing it out is far the best option though.

The GW1058 should then fit with grills between baffles and drivers with about 1mm too much which is compressed in assembly. So minimal compression of the sealing gasket just like for the HP10Ws.

Most people just drill a hole and seal that after to get cables into the speaker compartments. Some prefer to have connectors instead. Either will work fine.

Last edited by Saturnus; 22nd June 2013 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 22nd June 2013, 12:43 PM   #4067
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Aalesund
Hi.
I still wait for a New bms for my batterypack(lifeo4). I got charger from same produser and there is a led who is red when charge and turn green when full charge. If i charge whitout bms will this led still turn green when finnished?( I'm a bit afraid to destroy batteries).
I have a low hiss sound when unmuting is this normal?
rgs Bjoern
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Old 22nd June 2013, 12:46 PM   #4068
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The charger shouldn't care if there's a BMS or not, so I don't see why it wouldn't turn off automically when full.

Yes, when you have high gain, and very sensitive speakers a small amount of hiss is normal.
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Old 22nd June 2013, 03:27 PM   #4069
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Thank you very much Saturnus! The remaining woodwork will be done tomorrow :-)
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Old 23rd June 2013, 05:11 PM   #4070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
The charger shouldn't care if there's a BMS or not, so I don't see why it wouldn't turn off automically when full.

Yes, when you have high gain, and very sensitive speakers a small amount of hiss is normal.
30V when charged I think that is to much for AMP9.
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